News does not get any more exciting than this!

Drumroll…

The biggest – world record-breaking – congratulations to Raymond Kahuma who has landed a Guinness World Record for Uganda by making the world’s biggest rolex! According to his certificate, the mammoth snack weighed in at a phenomenal 204.6 kg (or 451 pounds!)

Just how many eggs do you think were needed to make it?!

While others may strive to win medals at the Olympics or reward themselves with endless university degrees, Raymond has done something far more worthy: he has (in his words) “helped put Uganda on the world map” and boy is he entertaining us too!

Explore Uganda through your tastebuds!

For the uninitiated, a rolex is an omelette rolled in a chapati. (Rolled eggs, get it?) It’s a staple of students and party animals countrywide. (You can’t beat eating a fresh rolex at three in the morning on the way home from a nightclub, which we are now able to do again in Uganda after almost two years of bar closures!)

According to the rules set by Guinness World Records, the rolex would need to weigh at least 200 kg. With a single rolex weighing 100g, that equated to 200 rolex! However, that would be too easy: the final item had to be a scaled-up version of the actual food. (Until this record from Uganda, the world’s biggest rolex measured three metres in diameter and weighed 149 kg).

Kahuma’s first attempt at making a record-breaking rolex cost him $3000 and took a team of 15 people four weeks – to ultimately fail. On that first attempt, the chapati got burned before they had a chance to make the full rolex. Kahuma explains how he had given up on college and how making this humongous Rolex “had become my life’s work. Giving up was not an option.”

Watch Raymond Kahuma’s record-breaking feat “I made the world’s biggest rolex” made in Kampala.

The video is HILARIOUS (just forgive the occasional swearword…) Honestly, the world’s biggest rolex video is the best thing I have watched in a long time. I felt a little emotional by the end of it!

“Uganda’s Guinness World Record for the world’s biggest rolex is a testament to perseverance and dedication.”

Raymond Kahuma

Ingredients for a world record-breaking 200kg+ Ugandan rolex!

• 72 kg flour
• 90 kg vegetables
• 1200 eggs
• 40 kg water
• 40 kg cooking oil
• 14 hours and 36 seconds
• Four attempts
• 60 participants

Originally the go-to food for students, posh versions of Rolex now include chicken, bacon, cheese and a variety of ingredients. At Bujagali in Jinja, you can even order a sweet rolex filled with chocolate and fruit! Back on the streets – arguably still the best place to order your chapati – a rolex stall is one of the quickest and easiest way to set up a new business. You have to hand it to Ugandans for their entrepreneurial spirit!

The humble rolex is a staple on Diary of a Muzungu’s menu. It even has its own blog “The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness!”

Do you love eating rolex? Restaurant variety or roadside stall which is your favourite?

The post The world’s BIGGEST rolex wins Guinness World Record! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

This is your chance to explore – and help preserve – Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe’s 60+ historical buildings and sites – and it’s nearly all FREE!

One of the (few) things that I miss about Europe is the architecture. The continent’s rich history is preserved and celebrated through houses and office blocks, castles, and palaces. The collective history of these buildings can be traced back centuries.

My early career was spent working with architects in London and my mantra was always to ‘look up’ – to explore what was going on above street level, beyond the modern signage and the shop facades.

Uganda has some interesting old buildings but many are under threat from developers who would rather put up something new than re-purpose an existing structure. Although some buildings may look dilapidated now, there’s no reason why most can’t be given a face lift. In Europe, heritage is a big business.

Kampala's historical buildings and sites

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Exterior of the Bahai Temple. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Exterior of the Bahai Temple. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Inside the Bahai Temple. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Inside the Bahai Temple. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bahai Temple Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bahai Temple Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Albert Cook's House interior. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Albert Cook's House interior. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU
Aperture: 1.8
Camera: iPhone 7 Plus

Exterior. Albert Cook's House, Makindye. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Exterior. Albert Cook's House, Makindye. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Albert Cook's House, Makindye. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Albert Cook's House, Makindye. Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

All Saints Cathedral Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

All Saints Cathedral Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU
Aperture: 1.8
Camera: iPhone 7 Plus

Uganda Museum, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Uganda Museum, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Uganda Museum, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Uganda Museum, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Uganda Museum, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Uganda Museum, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Uganda Bookshop - Ebenezer House. Kampala Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Uganda Bookshop - Ebenezer House. Kampala Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

National Theatre Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

National Theatre Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Parliament Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Parliament Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Parliament Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Parliament Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

National Theatre Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

National Theatre Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Old Kampala building. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Old Kampala building. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Coffee Marketing Board, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Coffee Marketing Board, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

National Theatre Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

National Theatre Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Parliament Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Parliament Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bulange, Mengo, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bulange, Mengo, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bulange, Mengo, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bulange, Mengo, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bulange, Mengo, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bulange, Mengo, Kampala. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

I was therefore delighted when Verity from CCFU told me all about a brilliant initiative that aims at preserving what remains of Uganda’s unique built heritage. I have visited the Baha’i Temple and Jinja’s old buildings fascinate me; I often wonder at the history of the old buildings along Kampala Road. It’s now easier than ever for you to explore these and many more places yourself. If you work in tourism, how can you include these places on a tour?

Uganda’s Built Heritage – a free mobile phone app

The app features over 60 buildings that represent Uganda’s architectural history, covering the pre-colonial era and post-independence Uganda.

Uganda’s Built Heritage app brings Uganda’s history to life as you walk or drive down the street!

• See photos, descriptions and contact information for historical sites and buildings
• Read overviews of each town and city
• Plan walking or driving routes between historical sites
• Set up alerts to notify you when you pass historical places
• Share your discoveries with friends online

Click here to download Uganda’s Built Heritage app from Play Store (Android) or App Store (iPhone). The app is free

Maps – explore the historical sites of Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe

Three high-quality maps have been produced to help tourists and members of the public understand and appreciate the history around us. The maps detail the historical buildings and sites for each of the three cities with a clear annotated street plan.

1. A Map of Kampala’s Historical Buildings and Sites
2. A Map of Jinja’s Historical Buildings and Sites
3. A Map of Entebbe’s Historical Buildings and Sites   

Click on the links above to download PDF versions of each map or visit the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda

“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks – Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe” photographic book

“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks: Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe” presents beautiful pictures that were taken exclusively for this project. The narrative sets the 60+ locations in their historical, social and political contexts and highlights why they still matter today.

Jinja's historical buildings and sites

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World War Monument Bugosa Square Jinja. PHOTO CCFU

World War Monument Bugosa Square Jinja.

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Municipal Offices. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Pier. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Pier. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Pier. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Pier. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Jinja Railway Station. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Source Cafe Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Source Cafe Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Madhvani Building Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Madhvani Building Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Sanatan Dharam Mandir Hindu Temple Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Sanatan Dharam Mandir Hindu Temple Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Sanatan Dharam Mandir Hindu Temple Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Sanatan Dharam Mandir Hindu Temple Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St Joseph's Cathedral, Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St Joseph's Cathedral, Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St Joseph's Cathedral, Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St Joseph's Cathedral, Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St Joseph's Cathedral, Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St Joseph's Cathedral, Jinja. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

This book bears witness to the richness of Uganda’s historical buildings and sites (some hidden, some prominent) surrounding us in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe. From the legacy of pre-colonial kingdoms to the introduction of western education, medicine, and religions, the growth of commerce and industry, through to Uganda’s forging a new independent identity, this book documents the country’s story through those historical buildings and sites that still stand today.

The book is available at Aristoc, Kardamom & Koffee (KAR Drive in Kololo), Entebbe airport departure lounge bookshop and from CCFU’s office on Makerere Hill. The book is priced at 150,000 UGX.

Background to this project

Urbanization, rapid population growth and the drive for modernity have created a constant demand for higher-density development (such as multi-story apartments). These are often on plots which are already occupied by historical buildings and sites. As a result, many heritage sites have already been lost forever. The risk of losing more of the county’s heritage is real and needs to be addressed as a matter of urgency.

Loss of historic sites means a lost connection with a shared past. Without the unique features of the built environment, one Ugandan city risks becoming indistinguishable from any other. Each building has a story to tell about the people who lived or worked there and about the history of Uganda.

This issue is recognized internationally through Sustainable Development Goal 11, reflecting a global realization that many urban cities are expanding fast and risk losing their historical and cultural identity if heritage infrastructure and associated cultural values are not preserved and promoted.

National and local government are strongly encouraged to “identify, list, protect and promote historical properties in their respective cities and to serve as examples of preservation champions to other municipalities.”

On African World Heritage Day 2019, the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) with support from the European Union together with Ugandan partners launched a mobile app, three maps, and a photographic book. The aim of the project? To protect the posterity of historical buildings and sites in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe.

Entebbe's historical buildings and sites

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Entebbe Golf Club. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Entebbe Golf Club. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Entebbe Golf Club. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Entebbe Golf Club. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Chadwick Namatte Primary School, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Chadwick Namatte Primary School, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Independence Tree, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Independence Tree, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Entebbe za Mugula. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Entebbe za Mugula. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St John's Church Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

St John's Church Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Stanbic Bank Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Stanbic Bank Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bugonga Church Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bugonga Church Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bugonga Church, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Bugonga Church, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Old Airport Tower, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Old Airport Tower, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Old Airport Tower, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

Old Airport Tower, Entebbe. Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda CCFU

The three products illustrated here are the result of a year-long collaboration to mark the 2018 European Year of Cultural Heritage “which provided an ideal opportunity to share the European experience with like-minded Ugandan institutions.” The Embassy of Ireland is also acknowledged for its role in the early days of this project.

The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) is a national not-for-profit NGO, dedicated to promoting the recognition of culture as vital for human development that responds to Uganda’s national identity and diversity. CCFU was founded in 2006, premised on the conviction that positive aspects of culture can be harnessed to bring about social and economic transformation. For more information visit the CCFU web site email ccfu@crossculturalfoundation.or.ug or call +256 (0)393 294 675 / 7.

If you enjoy history, you might like my pictures of Kampala railway station and Nairobi railway station.

Take time to explore these great resources from CCFU. Our children may thank us one day.

The post History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a mobile app appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Nyege Nyege Festival 2018, Jinja, Uganda. PHOTOS by Tweny Benjamin

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Nyege Nyege 2018, Jinja, Uganda. 7. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege 2018, Jinja, Uganda. 6. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege 2018, Jinja, Uganda. 5. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege 2018, Jinja, Uganda. 4. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege 2018, Jinja, Uganda. 2. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege 2018, Jinja, Uganda. 1. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege Festival 2018, Jinja, Uganda. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege Festival 2018, Jinja, Uganda. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege Festival 2018, Jinja, Uganda. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege Festival 2018, Jinja, Uganda. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

Nyege Nyege 2018, Jinja, Uganda. 8. PHOTO Tweny Benjamin

PHOTOS Tweny Benjamin, Tweny Moments

“I saw things.

The 4-day fete ended last night. And I saw things. I saw music and art come together in matrimony. I saw free spirited souls, sticking their noses in the air like greyhounds, chasing for a section that had the loudest and ‘lit’ music. I saw a tribe of happy campers, leaving their warm beds in Uganda’s capital, to sleep on small blocks of mattresses under the stewing Jinja heat.

I saw hungry entrepreneurs, predominantly young people, trying to make an extra buck. From innovative startups like Musana Carts to the famous Kyadondo Pork. I saw young creatives sell apparel to festival goers. I saw tattoo artistes trying to make ends meet an ink at a time.

I saw brands like Uganda Waragi and Coca-Cola feeding people the way Jesus would. In fact, at some point, there was no 750 ML UG – Coconut and Pineapple flavours. They were drank out. I saw business for these brands.

I saw friends from Kigali, Nairobi, South Africa, around the world. A tribe of happy souls speaking one language, wanderlusters, on a hunt for happiness. I saw friends from Tanzania who flew in with #AirTanzania2UG that’s been recently launched.

I saw young DJs like Kampire Bahana making people literally go wild. I saw young photographers like Zahara Abdul and Tweny Benjamin making pictures and money.

I saw Boda Bodas ferrying people from all corners of Jinja town, a business chance that shows up once in a year – September. I saw Java House in Jinja fill up with festival goers looking for a remedy for their hangover. I saw a beeline to the Source of The Nile, local and international tourists queuing up to see River Nile head to Egypt.

I saw hotels and guest houses and lodges booked out for 4 days. I saw performances and talented artistes I would never imagine seeing. I saw a festival in its infant stage, on a runway, picking up to take to the skies. I saw a festival that will be the biggest festival in Africa. A Coachella in the making. A Tomorrowland in the oven. A Burning Man in a potter’s hands.

I didn’t see animals.”

Thanks to Nimusiima Edward who allowed me to share his Facebook update of September 10th 2018.

In its 4th year, Nyege Nyege Festival is undoubtedly Uganda’s number one party festival, with revellers coming from all over Uganda, Nairobi and beyond for the 4 day event. It caused quite a stir last week when Uganda’s “Ethics and Integrity Minister” Father Lokodo wanted to cancel it. This only served to give it an even bigger (free!) publicity boost.

Over the past decade, Uganda has seen a mushrooming of arts, music and dance festivals. The mega Bayimba International Festival of the Arts is arguably Uganda’s best arts festival.

Nyege Nyege stands for peace, respect and abundant joy, it stands for Africa and Africans, for underground music and musicians, it stands for fun and curiosity and strives towards inclusivity and wonder, something of a perfect world you might say, but it’s only 4 days after all.

Nyege nyege can be translated as ‘the urge to dance.’ (Jiggy jiggy might be another term for it!)

Do you have a story you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.

The post “I saw things” Nyege Nyege Festival appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

From Silverback Mountain Gorillas to Silverchefs – how food is helping put the Gorilla Highlands of southwestern Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC on the tourist map.

“You came all this way just to attend a cooking competition?”

After a month of living in the village on posho (maize porridge) and beans, little persuasion was needed to travel a day and a half to taste the creations of sixteen chefs and to enjoy the Kigali Marriott Hotel’s phenomenal breakfast!

How could I resist the lure of food (that I didn’t have to prepare), a stay in a top international hotel, the chance to learn more about hospitality (my first jobs were in hotels) and to network with tourism colleagues and media from across East Africa?  

Most importantly though, I was delighted to be invited to support the work of Gorilla Highlands (the brains behind the Silverchef Competition), creating positive stories about this ridiculously beautiful corner of the world.

And so it was that I found myself traveling from my current home near Fort Portal to Kigali: by boda boda, matatu taxi, bus, private hire car, another matatu, bus (Jaguar Executive Coaches, comme d’habitude) and finally a moto (the Rwandese word for motorbike or boda boda) from Nyabugogo bus park in downtown Kigali.

What is the Silverchef Competition?

“In a spirit of friendly co-operation” sixteen chefs representing sixteen establishments from Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo congregated at the Kigali Marriott Hotel for Gorilla Highlands’ Silverchef Competition 2018.

Two shifts of eight chefs took over the four kitchens of the Marriott Hotel to prepare their dishes. Behind the scenes, the judges watched the chefs’ preparations. Each chef had the same ingredients (points were deducted for anyone who did not stick closely to the rules!) Chefs were judged not only for the taste of their food but the chefs’ presentation skills, their creativity and their time management skills.

Talking about the competition, Miha Logar of Gorilla Highlands said “It’s good for chefs to get away from their own environment once in a while. They often lead a demanding lifestyle, far away from their family. We believe that events like this build a chef’s self-confidence. Having the chance to travel is a bit of an adventure, whether visiting a new country or a different part of their own country.”

Not only was 2018 memorable for being Silverchef’s inaugural event in Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo also joined the competition for the very first time. (Guess which lucky travel blogger has an invitation to Goma?)

“It’s been a big decision to work in the DRC and I’d like to thank all the stakeholders in the region who have given their input, suggestions and thoughts on this subject.” Will next year’s Silverchef find us in the DRC? We wait and see.

Previous editions of Silverchef have been held in Uganda: in Kisoro, Kabale and Lake Bunyonyi.

What is travel without good food?

Although at first glance the point of the Silverchef Competition is to win the prized silver chef’s hat, the event is part of a bigger strategic initiative. At the heart of the Gorilla Highlands’ philosophy is the belief that tourism can be a major tool for development. Tourism creates much-needed jobs and opportunities to train. With little local industry or manufacturing, tourism is the best bet for bringing revenue. Financial investment is important, but training, opportunity, innovation and self-confidence are also crucial.

Chefs bring their supporters and managers to Silverchef. Some hotel managers travel to the event looking for new staff. For lodge staff, tour operators and the wider tourism industry, the weekend of the annual Gorilla Highlands Silverchef Competition is a chance to interact, network and learn – about cooking, regional tourism and hospitality, and what tourism in the region needs to develop and flourish.

This year’s Silverchef judges were (from left): last year’s Silverchef winner Allan Mukasa, Sylvia Kalembe of Uganda Tourism Board, Chief Judge Professor Wolfgang Thome, Yves K. Ngenzi of Rwanda Development Board and Andre Ngoja-Ngoja from HORECA the Association for Hoteliers, Restaurants and Cafes in North Lake Kivu, DRC. The incomparable compere was Nash Barrett, Co-Founder SafeMotos.

Gorilla Highlands Silverchef Competition 2018

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SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda

#GHSilverchef 2018 Kigali Marriott Hotel Odeke Steven

#GHSilverchef 2018 Kigali Marriott Hotel

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

SilverChef competition 2018. Kigali Marriott Hotel, Rwanda. PHOTO Vincent Mugaba

Kigali city view from Marriott Hotel. Rwanda

So who were the winners of Gorilla Highlands’ Silverchef 2018?

According to Miha, “in our book, all the competing chefs are winners. They’ve committed to taking part in the competition and we are grateful for that.” That said, here’s the list of Quality Cooking Certificate winners:

• Chef “Rama” Ramadhan Sindayigaya, Marriott, Kigali (Rwanda) – Gorilla Highlands Silverchef 2018 and best Rwandese chef.
• Mukungu Akimu, Grand Legacy Hotel, Jinja (Uganda) – best Ugandan chef
• Manishimwe Jean Bosco, Lake Kivu Serena Hotel, Gisenyi (Rwanda)
• Musasa Marcellin Tshite, Virunga Lodge, Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda)
• Odeke Silver, Cephas Inn, Kabale (Uganda)
• Jean Bosco Birindwa, Ihusi Hotel, Goma (DR Congo) – best Congolese chef
• Otim Amos, Protea Hotel, Kampala (Uganda)
• Emmanuel Murwanashyaka, ParkInn by Radisson, Kigali (Rwanda)
• Sam Mbabazi, Bunyonyi Overland Resort, Kabale (Uganda)
• Paul Mulyampiti, BirdNest Resort – Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda)

The best Rwandan chef also received a prize from Rwanda Development Board: a trip to Volcanoes National Park to track the gorillas! The winning chef from Uganda won a trip to track the gorillas in Uganda, courtesy of the Uganda Tourism Board and Uganda Wildlife Authority.

Visit the Gorilla Highlands web site to learn more about travel in southwestern Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo.

The post From Silverbacks to Silverchefs! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

My great grandfather was a Mwami Wa Kabaka (King’s Minister), one of the few landlords in the present-day Kyaddondo East (forget these ones of today who don’t even own a mile of land). He was blessed to marry a daughter to Ham Mukasa, one of the survivors of the Uganda Martyr Killings. For that reason, I treasure my name. For it is an indelible mark of my heritage. Like a heartbeat it sounds — Mutumba… Mutumba….

I guess you’re now wondering why I’m feeding you with all this history mumbo-jumbo. I just intend to state that my clan motto is indeed one of the kingdom’s most famous.

I am not one of the many that perceive this motto as chauvinistic and patriarchal; I rather think our Mubala shows love for the dog, but not disdain for the woman. You wonder who thinks otherwise? Well, our neighbours of Lugave Clan have a mubala (clan motto) that goes,

“Bw’ompa akawala ako, ng’ebbanja liwedde…” — “If you give me that little girl, I will forget all you owe me…”

So it is obvious that those folks would look at our motto as misogynistic; which to me, is not true.

Don’t get me wrong: I don’t say this because of the immense support I have for my heritage — I in fact have been hating most of it since I was born. I never believed that the seedling my grandma planted for me to wash my face on, every morning, was the reason why I got back my appetite — though truly I started eating well again, after a few mornings of my ordered irrigations. I never believed that the big python whose big tree-house people visited from far and beyond, had any supernatural powers. I never believed that the trances that I underwent were the famous Eyaabwe, which the Ganda say are ancestral spirits, which disturb children who don’t go back to the village; to Kulima Ebiijja (cleaning the burial grounds) of the long-gone Jajjas (ancestors). I never took seriously anyone who spoke in tongues and rolled on the ground at family reunions, claiming to be possessed and/or passing on our ancestors’ message to us. I never believed that the failure to wipe my body with herbs after cleaning our ancestral burial grounds was the reason why I got demented and vomited vehemently — without a single infection — only to feel better after being forced to gulp on a concoction of bitter herb juice. The exorcism, to me, was just luck and not magic.

Amidst all this disbelief, only one thing could sway my guarded heart — a dog. For as far as my memory serves me, I grew up with a dog by my side, her name: Police. Whether I was out to hunt squirrels, trapping guinea fowls, or swimming in clay-mine ponds, Police was always by my side, sharing the depths of the water with me when she could — like a Guardian Angel.

“Shaw…”, I would tell her; pointing at anything that I wanted her to chase after. Not only enemies though, sometimes she would be chasing the ball in our thrilling soccer game of two.

Police died a very early death, in my opinion by then. And if I were to say she didn’t leave a hole in my heart, I would be lying. None of her offspring understood me half the way she did, and neither did their own. They died off one by one till her entire lineage was done.

The Indians fancy the theory of reincarnation: I somehow started believing it too when I got myself a beautiful pup from my neighbour’s litter. Cobra was white like cassava milk; the only things on her body that weren’t white were her dilated pink pupils. For some weird reason, I could see Police whenever I looked in Cobra’s eyes — reincarnation? She was the closest among all dogs to being like my Police. But at about 20 years in dog age – 17 months of age in reality – Cobra meddled in classified business! She trespassed into a shrine of a renowned Native Doctor during a ritual. The Witch and her congregation praised Jajja Nalumoso for appearing to them physically in form of a white creature — a known habit of the Spirit of Nalumoso. Since then, my dog has not come back home. She carelessly bypasses me when she’s out on a walk – to God-knows-where – with the Witch’s son. She doesn’t even remember her name, Cobra; Nalumoso is all she hears. I can’t believe she forgot about her baby boy, Doddie — he misses Mom so dearly. His black fur and golden brown patches, get more melancholic every new dawn. His eyes… well… mine get teary whenever I look in his. He keeps his tired gaze, everyday, fixed on the path his mother took before she failed to return.

I don’t care much about anything else. I just wish the Witch knew at least my clan’s mubala; so she could take anything and leave my dog with me.

Do you have a story you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.

The post Why I believe there’s witchcraft (A tribute to my dog) appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

How do you sum up Uganda, the Pearl of Africa to would-be visitors? And what makes Uganda unique?

I received an interesting email recently: “I have been following your adventures and love what you do. Uganda is a country with incredible soul and you manage to capture it in the most beautiful and charming ways. We are currently working on a campaign that aims to inspire unity amongst Africans and promote Africa as the ultimate travel destination.”

I was therefore asked to “shoot a short video of yourself explaining what makes Uganda such a wonderful country.”

If you’ve read my “50 reasons why I love Uganda” you’ll know that creating a one-minute video to encapsulate all of that would be impossible! I wrote 50 reasons to honour 50 years of Uganda’s independence – that list gets longer day by day.

I was touring Uganda at the time, researching the country’s best lodges for Fodor’s “Complete Guide to the African Safari” guidebook. As the video deadline approached, I was in Buhoma, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

I happened to be travelling with former Urban TV producer Arthur Katabalwa – and what followed was an impromptu piece to camera during a rolex-making demo!

(Fast forward the video to 1 minute 30 seconds to meet bloggers from Uganda!)

The rolex “rolled eggs” (omelette) wrapped in a chapati is becoming infamous now. This simple street food sums up some quintessential Ugandaness:

• Rolex is Uglish (a unique take on the English language which frequently has us all rolling around the floor in stitches!)
• Entrepreneurship: setting up a roadside rolex stall is a popular small business in Uganda.
• The rolex stall is where we stand around chatting as we wait to be served. It’s where we may start our day.
• It’s where many people end a late night – grabbing a cheap bite to eat after a night on the town. If you’re lucky, your boda boda guy will drive right up to the rolex guy’s stall and you won’t even need to get off your boda!

I was honoured to appear alongside well-known Ugandan bloggers Rosebell Kagumire, Ernest Bazanye and Sophie from a Kitchen in Uganda in this video. Incidentally, it was Sophie who helped the rolex go global when it featured on CNN in the article “Delicious African foods you should try.”

Do you love reading about African food? Read “Virtually edible – a food tour of Uganda.

The post The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Diary of a Muzungu is delighted to be one of the media sponsors of the 2017 Bayimba International Festival of the Arts! Scroll down this page to read the week-end’s PACKED programme of events and keep checking Bayimba’s Facebook page and Twitter for more news and updates. Follow the hashtags #Bayimba2017 and #BAYIMBAat10

The 22-24 September 2017 will be a ten-year celebration of Uganda’s multidisciplinary Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. Every third week of September, Kampala comes alive as a vibrant and eventful city when an unparalleled feast of music, dance, theatre, film and visual arts from renowned and upcoming artists are brought to the Uganda National Cultural Centre / Uganda National Theatre.

Celebrating ten years of Bayimba International Festival of the Arts

Looking at today’s arts entertainment scope, Kampala alone boasts of a variety of festivals, it’s a different scenario looking back 9 years later. The birth of Bayimba Festival changed event organizing in Uganda, during an era with few platforms to showcase artistic works. The festival’s 1^st edition echoed possibilities and creative empowerment that opened every artist’s way of thinking about creating and not job seeking. At the same time as the country’s live music scene was kicking in, the platform offered live performance workshops to artists, mentored them to apply for other festivals across the globe. Bayimba’s international status caters for diverse audiences and its unique programming consists of exhibitions, contemporary fashion, dance and multiple arts. Slowly, artists adopted a system of organizing their own events to try similar ideas, to grow their own networks and develop business relations in order to sustain themselves.

In the present day, Bayimba continues to serve as an important benchmark for the consumption of the country’s finest arts through its signature initiative “The Bayimba International Festival of the Arts,” an annual three day arts fete that happens every September.

Fast forward to 2017 and this year marks the festival’s 10^th anniversary. A glance of what’s on offer has an array of diverse arts, ranging from performance arts set to thrill crowds on the two stages, where the list of performers include: Uganda’s self-styled Ghetto President “Bobi Wine” who makes a second appearance since 2015. Mariam Ndagire will open day one’s recitals for female dancehall outfit Cindy to close. Other performers are: self-claimed King of Mwooyo Maurice Kirya, Percussion Discussion Africa, 90’s gospel group Limit X, Lily Kadima and Coopy bly. Dr. Jose Chameleone is set to headline day two.

Some of the regional and international acts set to join this edition’s main stage are: Kenya’s Nyaititi maestro Makadem, Tanzania’s Jaggwa Music, South Africa’s Dr Bone (returning for a second do after an interrupted piece last year), in addition to South African afro soul Diva Berita, Ugandan-born Danish belle Feridah Rose, a recent winner of The Uganda Music Awards, Best Dispora Act and finally Ethiopia’s former Coke Studio representative Betty G.

The Upper Garden arena of the National Theatre will host Stage 2. The line-up of acts here consist of genres whose collection varies from Hip hop, Reggae, Ragga, Mataali, musical conversations and DJ collaborations. Some of the acts include Zimbabwe’s Hope Masike, here to fuse her soulful ballads with Ugandan percussionist Haka Mukiga. The legendary hip hop duo and brothers Sylvester and Abramz, will incorporate female DJ outfits under the flagship of Femme Electronic, Rwanda’s Components RW, Netherland’s Bilvar Mvulu, Umoja Boys and Kenya’s Mwanase Ahmed together with Bayimba-run initiative Youth and Hip hop workshop beneficiaries Jo’Ge Flame, Kristien Carol & Shirley May and a whole lot more.

Besides the stage presentations, Ekyalo Bayimba will now return as Ekyalo Kasaayi, an artist’s dialogue space whose curation will be led by Liz Kaggwa and Drum Circle (popularly known for their Ngoma Jam sessions).

The auditorium activity slots encompass genres like Kadongo Kamu in the lead of heavy weights Abdu Mulasi, Chance Nalubega, Fred Sebatta and dramatical recitals by Omugave Ndugwa’s Balck Pearl and a lone man comedy show Mukalazi Edwin titled “HipHop Comedy,” and poetry to be presented by Kitara Nation poets, whose anthology recitals will cast college students.

Fashion is a signature activity of the festival and three of Uganda’s celebrated personalities will produce this aspect: Ras Kasozi of SEED FASHION a Skilled Expressive Entrepreneurial Designers show project designed by US Mission Kampala in collaboration with Kas Wear under the mentorship of Ras Kasozi; Gloria Wavamunho, curator of the Kampala Fashion Week and Buyi pheel of Kkoolo designs an entrepreneurial initiative of traditional art.

Over the past editions of Bayimba, Silent disco has proved to be one of the highlight activities, and will again appear on this edition’s menu, in the usual space – the Dance floor. In 2017, there will be film screenings, presented in partnership with the Swedish Embassy. Bikes and Cars is a documentary by Frederik Gertten. The Embassy will also feature a photography exhibition set against the climate change backdrop titled “Facing the Climate” and another exhibition by Switzerland’s reknown photographer Geoff Walker titled “Nodding Disease,” an awareness call about the epidemic and how it’s affecting northern Uganda.

To further celebrate the festival’s multidisciplinary status, a couple of visual artists have been commissioned to present and curate festival spaces. Stacey Gillian, whose sculptural work focuses on misconceptions of gender equality in Uganda, will unveil a 3D art installation. Xenson Znja a multidisciplinary artist and fashion designer will present the main stage backdrop for the second time since 2009, while Fitsjerald Art Studio will present the stage two backdrops.

The festival’s ever-growing participation and appreciation by the general public ranks it among Africa’s top festivals. Bayimba is not only a celebration of music but also a celebration of Ugandan contemporary life, placing Kampala as one of the top East African tourism hubs.

The festival still struggles to rely on local sponsors, but luckily the emergence of many emerging festivals celebrates Bayimba’s vision. Bayimba, has proved to stand the test of time by attracting more and more sponsors over the last five years, contrary to what it was back in 2008 during its inception.

The Bayimba International Festival of the Arts is undoubtedly Uganda’s number one multidisciplinary festival!

Here is the programme for the 2017 Bayimba International Festival of the Arts September 22nd – 24^th! FEEL FREE TO SHARE IT

Friday 22nd // Stage One

19:00 Mariam Ndagire & Band (UG)

20:00 Berita (SA)

21:00 Dr. Bone (SA)

22:00 Jagwa Music (TZ)

23:00 Cindy Sanyu (UG)

Saturday 23rd // Stage One

19:00 Percussion Discussion (UG)

20:00 Lily Kadima (UG)

21:00 Feridah Rose (UG/DE)

22:00 Maurice Kirya (UG)

23:00 Jose Chameleon (UG)

Sunday 24th // Stage One

19:00 Coopy Bly (UG)

20:00 Limit X (UG)

21:00 Betty G (ETH)

22:00 Makadem (KE)

23:00 Bobi Wine (UG)

Friday 22nd // Stage Two

18:30 Mutundwe Matali Group (UG)

20:00 Jacinta (UG)

21:00 Haka Mukiga and Hope Masike (UG/ZIM)

22:00 Umoja Boys (NL) & Mwanase Ahmed (KE)

Saturday 23rd // Stage Two

15:00 Tujaali Performers (UG)

17:00 – 19:00 The Project INYE (GER/COLUMBIA/SA)

19:00 Apio Moro (UG)

20:00 – 21:00 Sylvester & Abramz (UG)

21:00 Components RW (RW)

Sunday 24th // Stage Two

14:00 – 16:00 Femme Electronic

18:00 Famous Friends (UG)

19:00 – 20:00 Jo’Ge Flame, Kristien Carol & Shirley May (Youth & Hip Hop) (UG)

21:00 – 22:00 Boliver Mvulu & Band (NLD/DRC)

Friday 22nd // Auditorium

12:00 – 14:30 BIKES VS CARS (Documentary by Frederik Gertten)

15:00 – 16:30 Kitara Nation School’s Project – Poetry (UG)

19:00 – 20:00 The Veiled Truth (UG/RW)

20:30 – 21:30 Abdu Mulasi (UG)

Saturday 23rd // Auditorium

12:00 – 13:00 “Facing the Climate” – Effects of climate change in Uganda

14:00 – 15:00 Kitara Nation – Poetry (UG)

15:00 – 16:00 Musical Stand Up Comedy – Edwin Mukalazi (UG)

18:00 – 19:00 Dance Performance (UG)

20:00 – 21:00 David Walters (FR)

21:30 – 22:30 Chance Nalubega (UG)

Sunday 24th // Auditorium

12:00 – 14:00 Punishment Island – Film

16:00 – 17:00 Black Pearl (UG)

19:00 – 20:00 Street Dance Force & ABC Fleva (UG)

20:30 – 22:00 Fred Ssebatta (UG)

Friday 22nd // Dance Floor

17:00 – 18:00 KKOOLO Fashion (UG)

Saturday 23rd // Dance Floor

17:00 – 18:00 Gloria Wavamunno (UG)

20:00 – 23:00 – Silent Disco/Headphone Disco

Sunday 24th // Dance Floor

17:00 – 18:00 Ras Kasozi & SEED Uganda (UG)

20:00 – 23:00 – Silent Disco/Headphone Disco

Saturday 23rd // Green Room

14:00 – 16:00 Dance Workshop (UG)

Open Space

Art Installation – Matthieu Tercieux (FR) & Eduardo Souillot (FR)

Photography Exhibition

Facing the Climate – Foyer

Nodding Disease –Theatre Noticeboard

Upper Garden

Ekyaalo Kasaayi & Drum circle Uganda

3D Bayimba Art Installation – Stacey Gillian (UG)

Stage One Backdrop – Xenson (UG)

Stage Two Backdrop – Fitsjerald Art Studio (UG)

All day Art and Craft sales/exhibitions.

Remember to keep checking Bayimba’s Facebook page and Twitter for more news and updates. Follow the hashtags #Bayimba2017 and #BAYIMBAat10

The post NEXT UP: Bayimba! “An unparalleled feast of music, dance, theatre, film & visual arts” appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Do you love the cars of a bygone era? East Africa has a surprisingly diverse auto collection to show you!

The gardens of the Kampala Sheraton were the perfect location for the recent CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show, now in its sixth year. This fixture is growing year on year, with 76 entries in 2017, thanks to the support of the Sheraton, CBA Bank Africa and a team who travel from Nairobi every year to help with the judging. To qualify to enter, competing cars must be dated 1992, or before. I’m no car expert, but I loved this event!

This year I had a chance to meet Bob Dewar, the Director of the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, which is held in Nairobi and is now in its 47th year. (I confess I felt a twinge of homesickness when I heard his English accent fill the Sheraton Gardens and couldn’t wait to go over and say hello to him!) Bob has been key to the success of this event, also known as a Concours d’Elegance (concours means competition). He is in Kampala every year to support the Ugandan team and build the crowd’s interest in the cars on display.

Later in the afternoon, there was a “Vintage is Elegance” themed retro fashion show in the Sheraton Gardens, followed by a live performance by legendary reggae artist Maddox Ssematimba.

Who were the winners of this year’s CBA Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show?

Ronald Walusimbi’s 1967 Toyota Corona beat Patrick Mweheire’s 1965 Mercedes Benz by just two points. Walusimbi won the 2500 cc touring car class in 2016 with a 1974 Mercedes Benz. He was also the highest placed competitor from Uganda.

This year’s Uganda winner is one of eight Ugandans who will be contesting the Africa Concours d’Elegance at the Nairobi Racecourse in September for the classiest event on the Kenya motor sport calendar.

CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show 2017, Kampala Sheraton

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Uganda Classic and Vintage Car Show 2017. Sheraton Hotel, Kampala

CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Car Show 2017. Sheraton Hotel. Photo Peter Hogel

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An event with Kenyan connections and Buganda heritage

A team of nine Kenyan Concours enthusiasts participated in the Uganda event. Stephen Warui, who is a regular competitor in the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, was placed sixth overall in his 1959 Volkswagen Beetle. He also won his class.

There’s a strong connection between the Buganda Kingdom and classic cars. The first car in Uganda was a 1906 Albion 16HP engine car, given to Ssekabaka Daudi Chwa (1897-1939) by Sir Hesketh Bell. Kabaka Daudi Chwa owned a fleet of Buicks. Later, Sir Edward Walugembe Mutesa II (1939-1966) owned a number of Rolls Royce cars. One of these is on display at the Uganda Museum.

Next (pit)stop Nairobi!

Leslie Carvell, the overall winner of last year’s Kampala event, is a member of the Uganda contingent who will be taking their cars to the Nairobi Racecourse. She will spend two days driving her 1970 Volkswagen Beetle from Jinja to Nairobi.

The Uganda team will have an impressive collection of crowd-pulling cars. This includes the 1983 Nissan 240RS of Bob Roberts and Katende Mukiibi’s 1971 Ford Escort. Another ‘star car’ is the 1957 Mercedes Benz 190SL roadster of Laban Mawanda which will be a strong contender for a prize in the sports car class.

Twelve members of the Uganda Bikers Association (UBA) will be riding their motorcycles from Kampala to Nairobi to have their machines judged by Concours officials.

Where did the Concours d’Elegance idea start?

For the past 47 years, Kenya’s annual Concours has been organised by the Alfa Romeo Owners Club. The event’s aim is to recognise and reward the owners of well-kept cars and motorcycles, ranging from SUV’s and pick-ups to motorcycles.

To ensure high standards of judging, car entries are limited to seventy and motorcycles limited to forty. Just a few places remain on this year’s entry list. Regulations and entry forms are available from the Bob Dewar Publicity office in Kijabe Street, Nairobi. Alternatively, email / call info@bobpr.com +254 (0)20 3316160 / (0)2229793 / (0)733 732032.

A vintage and classic tour of East Africa – and beyond!

The influx of entries from outside Kenya confirms the status of the Concours as a pan-African event.

Three members of the Vintage Motorcycle Club of South Africa – with bikes of course! – are flying to Nairobi from Johannesburg to compete. There is now a classic car club in Dar es Salaam and several members are keenly interested in driving in a convoy to Nairobi to take part in the Concours.

I’m rather spoiled. I have grown up around classic cars, thanks to my dad. Indeed, my first car was a Morris Minor. (I think the idea was that if I had an old motor, I wouldn’t be able to drive too fast!) I had such fun in that car, it oozed character.

If you’re a ‘petrol head’ – or just appreciate a bit of motoring history – put these two East African motoring events in your calendar! 

The post “Vintage is elegance” – classic cars & fashion at the Kampala Sheraton appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

The good the bad and the ugly of volunteer travel. Photo Gates Foundation

Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Mark Riley, Co-Founder of Alternative Care Initiatives, an organisation working with the Ugandan government and others on child welfare reforms in Uganda and East Africa. In this article, Mark argues that there are many ways we can help vulnerable children but orphanage tours are not one of them. He asks that we all carefully consider whether a day tour to an orphanage or volunteering with orphans is really the best way to support these children.

Why orphanage tours should not be on a tourist itinerary

On the face of it, you would think that volunteering in an orphanage is a ‘win-win’ situation for everyone involved. On one hand, volunteers can do something they feel is making a positive impact and experience something completely different to their own world, while the children are nursed, cuddled and cared for by a volunteer. The tour operator, by linking the two together, delivers a package that everyone is happy with. So, what could be wrong with that?

Think before you visit or volunteer at an orphanage… is there a better way you can support these children?

It does not take much research to understand the way in which volunteering in orphanages can often have devastating and long-term effects on the children.

Research on the subject is overwhelming and various studies support this conclusion. A report by Better Care Network demonstrates that children living in institutions do not always receive high quality interaction when they most need it and, as a result, are at much higher risk of long-term developmental vulnerabilities. Also, there is evidence that children growing up in institutions do not manifest these development handicaps until adulthood when they try to integrate within society. As these children pass into adulthood and become independent (often with difficulty) they look at their peers who have been brought up in communities and realise their sense of loss and disconnection.

Orphanages, orphanage tourism and volunteering: the case of East Africa

In East Africa, there are situations where orphanages exist solely to provide a volunteering and mission experience. Additionally, although reunification, foster care and domestic adoption are on the rise across East Africa, orphanages that offer voluntourism packages have little or no incentive to reunify children under their care with their families or find family-based alternatives while volunteering and mission trips exist, since volunteers and mission trips would be redundant if the orphanages were empty!

“… Not only does [volunteering] encourage the expansion of residential care centres, but it also makes children [more] vulnerable to abuse.”

Where are the children’s voices?

Often the voices that are unheard in this debate are of the children who experience volunteers and mission trips while they are in orphanages. In comparison to the reportage or blogs of volunteers, there is minimal record of the experience of the children they visit.

In 2016, Stephen Ucembe, founder of Kenyan Care Leavers, wrote very eloquently about growing up in a Kenyan orphanage and the negative impact that volunteers and mission trips had on his childhood.

“Dressed in a uniform of blue shorts and yellow and blue t-shirts branded with the name of the orphanage, we were gathered under a tree for shade, standing at the centre of the institution to wait for the visitors.  We never called them volunteers then, but visitors..[…]

The institution staff had taught us a routine. They paraded us, and as soon as the visitors arrived in tour vans we had to exude joy. Indeed, we jumped up and down, and raptured in unison with song and dance that welcomed them.

We knew that the only way to ensure they came back again to help the institution was by how much they smiled at our entertainment, and by the tears, sadness or sympathy that came when they were told that we were “orphans”.  I remember the senior staff on duty standing at the centre of a circle of volunteers pronouncing how some of us had been abandoned by their parents, how others had been picked from the streets and others rejected by families.

Silently I felt sad and miserable to have people gawk at me and have cameras flashing at our faces. Most of the volunteers were taken round the institution to see where we slept, where our food was cooked, and told of upcoming projects. Some committed to help, and others gave a one off donation. Some of these encounters were brief, they pulled down their sunglasses, walked back to the vans and from the vehicles they waved us goodbye. At this point some of us had gotten used to their coming and going, but others not – especially the younger ones: tears knocked at their eyelids. They tried not to cry in an environment where crying was almost taboo. This practice with visitors had become a routine that made many of us feel even more alienated, isolated, stigmatized, helpless, hopeless, and weak.”

Although Stephen’s account should have been a wake-up call for the tourism industry, this was not so. In fact, one global tour operator that offers ‘orphanage volunteering’ asked for Stephen’s personal testimony to be removed from the website. This demonstrates that some orphanages, especially those that offer voluntourism, are money-making ventures with the tourists deemed more important than the voice of individuals like Stephen and those he speaks for.

Alternative Care Initiatives, a Ugandan NGO, has a Care Leavers programme, which  has engaged with over 100 young people who have lived in various care facilities in Uganda. They have made some startling findings with regards to volunteering and mission trips. Morris, a member of the Care Leavers’ team, grew up in what many consider a ‘good’ orphanage in Jinja. Although the orphanage was well funded and Morris was well fed, attended a good school and did not personally experience the levels of abuse and neglect that many others report, Morris still believes that not enough was done to support him and his siblings to remain in their community. This lack of support, Morris believes, contributed to the fractured relationship he has with members of his extended family. In retrospect, he feels that the constant flow of Western mission trips and volunteers, while exciting at first, distorted his view of foreigners and of the world. The constant thread of the experiences of children who grew up in the orphanage is that the foreigners came with gifts and kindness, and then left as quickly as they came, which left then bereft and with a twisted view of the world.

Children in Ongako sub-county, Gulu, Uganda. PHOTO Jan Sharp

Morris avers that some of the people he knew in care, especially those growing up in children’s villages, were neither Ugandans nor Westerners and therefore always felt like ‘hybrids’.  They witnessed and experienced much of Western culture but cannot attain or reach it. Likewise, they don’t really feel Ugandan. The idea of going to the village and helping communities ‘dig’, which is what most Ugandans from rural communities do, is appalling to them. It’s just not what they signed up for. Thus the orphanage system is creating long-term problems and disenfranchising people from their communities and roots.

These anecdotes demonstrate how volunteers and mission trips can have devastating and long-term impact on children and require a change of mind-set as well as the rigorous enforcement of child protection policies. The UN Guidelines on Alternative Care prioritise family strengthening and family-based care over institutional care, and are now widely accepted and incorporated into national policies and frameworks. Visiting orphanages is not only negative for the children but also against global, regional and country-specific polices and laws.  It is encouraging that Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania, are fully embracing family-based care and recognising that orphanages are not a part of the long-term, child protection system. However, authorities in all the countries need to do more.

Anna McKeon:”I volunteered at an orphanage and now I campaign against it.” Click here to read the personal account of an inexperienced international volunteer in orphanages in Thailand and Kenya. She shares the top five lessons she learned about volunteering and why it is harmful to volunteer in childcare institutions #StopOrphanTrips

Although this sort of volunteering in orphanages is declining globally, voluntourism and mission trips still play a central role in sustaining orphanages in East Africa and this will continue to negatively affect the wider child protection system. Consequently, there is need for tourism stakeholders to promote alternative voluntourism packages. Government agencies should enforce child protection policies and ensure orphanages adhere to national laws as well as global best practices, which will minimise the exposure of children, especially vulnerable ones, to social, cognitive, physical and psychological harm.

How can the tourism industry help?

East Africa has some of the world’s most amazing people, wildlife and landscapes and a visitor to this region never leaves disappointed. However, children should not be offered as a part of the tour itinerary. There is an abundance of satisfying activities which do not include visiting and sustaining orphanages and the damage that comes with such visits. Interested visitors who want an authentic holiday experience can take advantage of homestays or consider skills-based voluntourism in various sectors. This is not to suggest that tourists and other initiatives should not help children and the community – rather help in the right way.

DON’T

1. – Even if an orphanage says it is government-approved, don’t visit.
2. – Don’t put orphanage tours on your itineraries.
3. – Do not attend orphan dance shows. They do not give vulnerable children the care they need.
4. – Volunteers should not work directly with children.

Volunteering with children may feel good but could be harmful. There are some better ways to help them.

A group of curious Ugandan children peer in the classroom of a village school

DO

1. – If tourists want to meet local children and young people, this should be arranged through schools, churches and communities.
2. – Visitors can ask how they can share their professional skills with the local staff who care for these children.
3. – The placement of volunteer (professionally qualified) medical or childcare experts in orphanages may be acceptable with a medium or long-term commitment.
4. – Tourism industry professionals and tourists who are interested in supporting children may wish to donate to support the work of the organisations listed below.
5. – Please share and discuss the messages discussed in this article.

References and further reading

Mark Riley, Alternative Care Initiatives “Volunteers are fuelling the growth of orphanages in Uganda. They need to stop.”

Better Care Network. (2014). Better volunteering, better care

Fox, N., Almas, A., Degnan, K., Nelson, C., & Zeanah, C. (2011). The effects of severe psychosocial deprivation and foster care intervention on cognitive development at 8 years of age: findings from the Bucharest Early Intervention Project. Journal of Child Psychology and Psychiatry: 52(9), 919­928.

United Nations. (2010). Resolution 64/ 142: Guidelines for the alternative care of children. UN: New York.

You can follow #StopOrphanTrips to read more research, advice and personal testimonies.

To contact Mark Riley directly tel +256 (0) 7842 50921 or email mark.riley@alternative-care-initiatives.org

This is a summary of an article that was first published in the East Africa Sustainable Tourism Report Issue 6, 2017. Sustainable Travel & Tourism Agenda – STTA

The Muzungu: thanks Mark for sharing your insights. I remember watching an orphan dance once and wondering why the kids looked so uninterested in us. I thought they would be happy to see us. Now I understand how many times visitors have come and gone in their young lives, and how that must affect them. 

If the issue of orphans and young children interests you, read a related guest post Ugandans Adopt – “Why I do what I do.”

Do you have a story you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.

The post Why orphanage tours are wrong appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Sandra Rwese, a brilliant Ugandan entrepreneur who I first heard speak at a Nature Uganda public talk in Kampala. Sandra gave us an introduction to Chinese culture, the opportunities – and threats – that this new market poses to tourism and conservation in Uganda. Her insights are fascinating!

Sandra Rwese is a bilingual tourism expert with many years research experience in China’s outbound tourism landscape. In 2012 she won the Silver Prize for Product Innovation during the prestigious CTW Awards in Beijing. She writes:

“Travel is my religion, and Asia is one of the most fascinating places l happened to explore during my many travels. Having spent time living and studying in mainland China and Hong Kong, l decided to relocate back to Kampala in 2014. I saw a niche in Sino-Africa travel connections and immediately went about launching my tourism consulting firm Gulu & Hirst (G&H).

It took infinite persistence trying to market my advisory services in Uganda – in a country where CEOs prefer to wait until the absolute last minute before reacting to fresh business ideas. I remember once waiting three hours in a reception hall for a brief chance to meet one leading tourism stakeholder. Such is the journey towards promoting China’s USD 422 billion consumer potential to Uganda’s tourism fraternity.

Part of my consulting includes pushing for ecological conservation and, with each public lecture or sales training session, l never miss an opportunity to caution my audiences on the environmental ramifications of mass travel from China. Yes the Chinese have big money to spend overseas, lots of it. But their high propensity for eating arthropods and game meat could come at a higher cost to Uganda’s plant and animal species than we imagined. We simply cannot afford mass Chinese arrivals in groups as large as 200 per flight.

Chinese tourists are fearless and have gained ill-repute in almost every country so far. Nothing is off limits. Not even rampant trafficking of cheetah hides, donkey meat, lion bones, ivory, sandalwood, albino crocodiles, butterflies, pangolins, sea turtles, and rare national treasures. In my analysis, Uganda’s only hope in upholding species protection rights is by forming legally binding partnerships with travel agents and institutions sending visitors from China. So that their groups are fewer and contained.

New Zealand is doing just that i.e. partnering with travel agents, universities, and FITs (Free Independent Travelers) in China to bring controlled tour groups. This closes the loop on traffickers who often sneak in on individual tourist visas. I see a win-win situation for Uganda if only this matter is taken as a matter of urgency; especially with new waves of Chinese migrants setting up tour companies right here and ferrying in travellers whose origins are anyone’s guess.

The second strategy would be to use Chinese social media campaigns to promote responsible tourism. Community outreach is critical and netizens must be alerted to Uganda’ laws against poaching and wildlife plunder. G&H is moving in this very direction towards RenRen, Sina Weibo, WeChat, Qzone and other popular social apps to convey Uganda’s conservation mantra to the 136 million Chinese planning annual trips abroad. We can successfully build #BrandUganda on such social platforms within China by spreading the message that “Uganda is not for sale.”

Thank you Sandra for some illuminating words and practical advice about the Chinese in Uganda and Africa.

Listen to Sandra being interviewed by Eric Olander on The China Africa Project debating the question: Chinese tourist arrivals in Africa are up, so why aren’t African travel companies more excited? Click on the green button below.

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