Visiting this blog for the first time? Here are popular pages I just know you’ll like:

*Launched 2024* The East Africa Travel Podcast is my biggest project in a long time. Tune in for the sounds of the forest (and strictly positive vibes).

What makes the Pearl of Africa so special? Read the ever-popular 50 reasons why I love Uganda.

Coming to Uganda to work, volunteer or simply live? Read Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats and Is Uganda safe? (expats share their experiences about life in Uganda).

Looking for a tour operator?

The Travel Directory lists registered tour operators, accommodation and things to do in Uganda. New listings are added regularly

You can also read reviews of Uganda tour operators on SafariBookings, the largest online marketplace for African safari tours.

Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly!

The East Africa Tourist Visa (Uganda / Rwanda / Kenya) – a definitive guide

Going on safari? Here’s the price list for visiting the National Parks, buying gorilla permits and a lot more. Uganda Wildlife Authority revises conservation fees FEES for 2024

Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas a multi-page guide

Uganda’s National Parks a page on each of the country’s ten National Parks

I regularly travel to Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania too. I have visited – and researched – a long list of places that haven’t (yet) made it onto the blog. Since 2022, that included:

UGANDA Kalangala (Ssese Islands), the very cool Banda Island, the Railway Museum in Jinja and both sides of the River Nile at Jinja, Arua and Pakwach in West Nile, Entebbe, Kampala, Kibale Forest and Fort Portal, Murchison Falls, Ishasha Wilderness Camp in Queen Elizabeth National Park, Honey Bear Camp in Kyambura Game Reserve, every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park, Mbarara, Kisoro, Lake Chahafi, Lake Mutanda, glorious Mgahinga and every sector of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Buhoma, Rushaga, Ruhija, Nkuringo).

RWANDA Kigali, Gisenyi and Lake Kivu, the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, Musanze and Gishwati-Mukura National Park (all part of my research for Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari).

TANZANIA Arusha and Moshi with views of Kilimanjaro.

Who is Diary of a Muzungu?

Read a bit About me, some Interviews and my Portfolio of writing for other publications. Do get in touch!

Random Uganda that will make you smile

Diary of a Muzungu comprises 100s of personal stories, travel reviews, wildlife encounters (and dating disasters!) Here are a few favourites.

Pant hoots and knuckle spins. Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest

Are Muzungus all rich? Apparently!

Ants in my pants insects EEEEH!

How to feed a baby elephant … cute! but the truth is shocking

Were Toto right about Africa? remember that song?

My local name is Nagawa but what does it mean? And how did I get this charming name? Read Bwindi – eye to eye with my totem

Downtown dreadlocks – the muzungu’s blind date

Grateful every day is dedicated to my home at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest AKA “how nature saved me.”

Want the latest news in your inbox? Then sign up to Diary of a Muzungu’s newsletter!

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For those of us who live in this insanely beautiful corner of the world, it’s no surprise to read that Uganda has just been rated “Africa’s best safari country by travelers.” This is the result of a survey by SafariBookings, the continent’s biggest online platform for tour operators and safari companies.

This remarkable performance takes into account a whole range of categories, from wildlife and scenic beauty to birding and bush credentials. Uganda was also the clear winner when it comes to Africa’s best birding-safari country, as voted by the experts.

Uganda clearly has reason to be optimistic about future surveys, as they’re hot on the heels of the current top three. Watch this space…

SafariBookings‘ verdict on Uganda as a safari destination. SafariBookings is the world’s largest resource and leading authority for planning an African safari. They check the registration papers of all tour operators, and have 92,471 traveler reviews written by people like you. 

What the experts say about Uganda

We know Philip Briggs as the author of the Uganda Bradt Guide, the country’s best-known guidebook. I interviewed Briggs in Uganda. He also writes for SafariBookings.

In the same survey, SafariBookings travel experts rank Uganda as Africa’s best birding safari destination!

If you’ve been reading Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know that I love birds. Birds send my heart a flutter is a collection of some of my Uganda birdwatching stories.

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here links to popular pages and the most useful resources.

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Although best known for its group of 1500 raucous chimpanzees, Kibale Forest’s chimps even have their NetFlix series. The whole Toro region has a mesmerizing landscape: mile after mile of rolling green hills, crater lakes and the essence of rural Ugandan life.

Built by hand, Kibale Lodge is thoughtfully designed to harmonize with the rocky outcrop that dominates the 150-acre site. The new luxury lodge will feature eight deluxe rooms, a villa, swimming pool, sauna and spa. I can’t wait to see the final result! The main lodge building will overlook Lake Lugembe in the lodge grounds, with sweeping views of the Rwenzori Mountains, famously known as the “Mountains of the Moon,” and a glimpse of Queen Elizabeth and the Kazinga Channel to the south.

This clip makes me fall in love with Kibale Forest all over again!

Like other Volcanoes Safaris properties, Kibale Lodge has been a long time in the making. Although we had wanted a lodge there for many years, there were no attractive large sites available. So five years ago we started assembling this site, centred on the breathtaking ridge above Lake Lugembe. Finally it has come together.

We have been assessing the topography, light, and weather patterns. The design and build style will ensure the lodge remains consistent with our ecological principles as well as retaining our Afro-chic ethos. The lodge will fit into the landscape in a seamless way, as if it always existed and just grew out of the earth.

Our style of building boutique lodges develops informally and in a fluid way. We like to bring out the natural essence of buildings.

Praveen Moman, the visionary founder of Volcanoes Safaris and a seasoned figure in Ugandan and Rwandan tourism

Kibale Lodge is the natural addition to Volcanoes Safaris’ existing circuit of four “great ape lodges,” these being: Bwindi Lodge, Mount Gahinga Lodge and Kyambura Gorge Lodge in Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. In 2023 alone, Volcanoes Safaris have won a series of awards including Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards, Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards and Marie Claire Sustainability Awards.

Vision

Volcanoes Safaris not only provides high levels of services (think: complimentary massages and personal butlers) in awe-inspiring locations but also distinguishes itself through unwavering dedication to great ape conservation and long-term investment in the local community.

We believe that the conservation of species such as the mountain gorilla has to be part of the economic mainstream to succeed; sensitive and controlled tourism has an essential role to play in conservation; and most of all, if an endangered species is to survive, the focus of conservation and tourism must be on communities getting tangible long-term benefits.

Praveen Moman

In Kibale Forest, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust will collaborate with the Jane Goodall Institute Uganda. This is modelled on the successful community-based conservation projects that have been running at Kyambura Gorge Lodge for over a decade.

Drive times to Kibale Lodge

• An hour from Fort Portal.
• An hour from the airstrip at Kasese, ideal for daily flights to and from Entebbe, and the other Volcanoes Safaris lodges.
• 30 minutes to the starting point for chimp tracking at Kanyanchu in Kibale Forest, one of Africa’s best parks for viewing chimpanzees. Read Diary of a Muzungu’s firsthand account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest in “Pant hoots and knuckle spins.”

Opening offer in 2024

Looking ahead, Kibale Lodge’s first three deluxe bandas will be ready for guests by May 2024; an additional five bandas will be unveiled by the year’s end. To celebrate this milestone, Volcanoes Safaris are offering a special opening promotion. Guests can combine their Kibale Lodge experience with gorilla trekking at Bwindi or Mount Gahinga Lodge and enjoy five nights for the price of four.

For more details, contact Volcanoes Safaris directly enquiries@volcanoessafaris.com – and do mention Diary of a Muzungu sent you

*Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill, a few minutes drive from Kibale National Park.

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COVID-19 in Uganda – summary

UPDATE June 19th 2023: I have been in/out of Entebbe Airport this month and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or “certificate” mentioned. HOORAY. I appreciate the blog reader who emailed to share that “unvaccinated travellers are no longer required to have a negative PCR test result for entry into Uganda since 7 March.”

Arrivals at Entebbe Airport

Travelers to Uganda are recommended to check with their airlines regarding COVID-19 requirements or risk being denied boarding. The advice varies from airline to airline.

Departures at Entebbe Airport

• Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
• The muzungu adds: I advise having a print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate [as per destination you are heading to]. Print facilities are available at the airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.

December 2 2022: President Museveni announced new directives recommended by Uganda’s National Taskforce on COVID-19. In summary these state that: everyone who attends “public meetings and gatherings in public places” or who wants “to access government and private offices” must have certificates proving full doses plus a booster or 24 hour PCR negative test for unvaccinated / partially vaccinated; indoor & outdoor mask mandates reinstated [I really don’t know what that means!] and “handshaking and hugging remain prohibited,” apparently.

The muzungu adds: Uganda is famously big on rules and poor on implementation but these are the rules, so be prepared to show your certificate(s) and/or wear a mask.

Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary

Yellow Fever vaccinations are now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. You can just show a copy of your certificate on your phone on arrival at Entebbe. No Yellow Fever certificate? You can have the jab at Entebbe Airport. This costs $40 (however, it takes ten days to take effect so do have the injection before you enter Uganda, if you can).

That said, there’s almost no risk of getting Yellow Fever. There was a handful of suspected infections in early 2022 but the minor outbreak was quickly contained.

Ebola in Uganda – summary

Lastly, on January 11 2023 (42 days without new infections) the World Health Organization has declared “Uganda Ebola outbreak finished.” Thank you to the health workers, Ugandan residents, government and donors who worked so hard to free the country of the virus.

Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!] just process this page.

Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel questions.

The Travel Directory has a list of tour operators who can help you plan a trip.

I regularly travel through Entebbe Airport. I write about my experience at arrivals and about the check-in experience at Entebbe Airport, both in 2021. However, as stated above, this page supercedes all previously published Uganda travel information.

Clear? Confused? Just send me a message.

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It’s taken me a long time to visit Tanzania. There’s so much that is familiarly East African, yet so many charming delights that are uniquely Tanzanian!

Here are the muzungu’s top reasons for visiting Tanzania (click on the links for Tanzania tours)

1. Tanzania has 14 National Parks, 370 mammal species and over 1000 birds.

2. Overdose on wildlife viewing at Ngorongoro Crater. Experience the Great Migration on the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, one of the ‘Seven Natural Wonders of Africa’ – watch it from a hot air balloon!

3. Tanzania is the base for hiking Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain

4. Relax on Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast. Go diving!

5. Fly or take the ferry to the island archipelago of Zanzibar, famous for the islands’ white coral sand beaches

6. Tour the historical cobbled streets and Arab-influenced Stone Town, Zanzibar, celebrated for its film and music festivals. No trip to Zanzibar is complete without a spice tour!

7. Tanzania has seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the Serengeti, Selous National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Stone Town.

8. Enjoy unusual fresh juices – such as coconut ‘madafu’ and custard apple

9. Explore the Selous, Africa’s BIGGEST game reserve!

10. Explore Dar es Salaam, East Africa’s second biggest port and a melting pot of African, Arabic and Indian influences.

“Jambo” – is the Swahili greeting for “welcome” which you will hear everywhere in friendly Tanzania.

The Great Migration of one and a half million Wildebeest traverse the Mara River twice yearly between the Serengeti in Tanzania and Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Game-viewing includes huge buffalo herds, thousands of antelope, elephant and giraffe.

If you’re going to the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, treat yourself to a hot air balloon safari! It’s a huge adventure from start to finish. Get up at the crack of dawn to watch the balloon being inflated and jump in the basket, ready for the off. Watch the sun rise as your balloon moves silently across the savannah, following the wildlife below. It’s amazing what you can see up there! A champagne and breakfast in the bush are just one part of this fabulous experience.

One of Tanzania’s most popular attractions is the Ngorongoro Crater, known as “Africa’s Garden of Eden,” home to 30,000 animals including the rare black rhino and black-maned male lions.

This jaw-dropping scenery is under the most serious of threats. Tanzania presses on with hydroelectric dam on vast game reserve. “Stiegler’s Gorge dam on the Selous park, a World Heritage Site listed as ‘in danger’, will cause irreversible damage, say conservationists.” Read The true cost of the Stiegler’s Gorge hydropower project in Tanzania (2019).

An (avoidable) environmental nightmare beckons… despite “the excellent potential of solar and wind power options.”

Did you know…?

Swahili is the official language of Tanzania but English is widely spoken.

Watch my short video: my view from the cockpit! Flight between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam.

We flew with Precision Air on their inaugural flight in 2017 between Dar es Salaam on the Tanzanian coast and Entebbe in Uganda (however Precision don’t currently fly that route).

Click here for reviews of 100s of Tanzania tours.

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Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that they were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.

“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.”

Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.

“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.”

• Dian Fossey, interviewed at her camp in Rwanda (May 1985).

The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254 gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population has just passed the 1,000 mark.

Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare these days, however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.

Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony every September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.

If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.

The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.

In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.

Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?

For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo, visit:

Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)

The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages the country’s National Parks. UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the whereabouts of Uganda’s gorillas.

Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)

Blog of the Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project

International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP

Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF

Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe

Gorilla tracking tourism and numerous community tourism initiatives all help raise funds and awareness the plight of the endangered mountain gorillas.

For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Back to Introduction

<|How to photograph gorillas*Uganda or Rwanda - a comparison|>

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Visitors to Uganda are often driven straight upcountry, away from the congested capital. That’s understandable since the country’s main draw are the National Parks. Also, since most visitors live in towns, you can understand they don’t find the idea of a busy city appealing. Kampala is where the crime is – like cities the world over – yet it’s dynamic (and I always feel a sense of excitement as I approach the city). Many now realise we have underestimated Kampala’s attractions and in 2022 Uganda Tourism Board opened a tourism information office in the grounds of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel.

Kampala – affectionately known by some as KLA – is a great place to live. This crazy, noisy, congested city can drive you nuts at times but there’s always something going on. Eh! I hardly know where to start…

What’s for breakfast in Kampala?

Okay, let’s start the day with coffee. Cappuccino is my personal weakness, and can now easily – although not cheaply – be found in most of Kampala’s major shopping centres, big hotels and urban areas. Some of my favourite coffee shops in Kampala include Coffee at Last in Makindye, Cafesserie and Endiro at numerous locations (the cosy Endiro Nakasero cafe is run by deaf staff), Le Petit Village at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road, Café Kawa in Tank Hill, Muyenga and Café Pap in Parliament Avenue and Ntinda. The Southside Market at Dancing Cup in Bugolobi is a popular Saturday hang-out. CJ’s (Cafe Java’s) – at various locations – always have excellent service (and large portions, especially during Ramadan). These also serve African tea.

What’s the perfect accompaniment to morning coffee? Croissants (yes!) or beef sambosas (samosas) and of course the number one Ugandan delicacy, the famous rolex! (“Rolled eggs” omelette in a chapati). Katogo (steamed savoury banana with beans or meat) is a popular Ugandan breakfast. I love it! (Unless it contains ‘gizzards’). Yuck.

Coffee / tea break over, Kampala’s markets are excellent. There’s a market for everything but you have to be ready for haggle. Expat tip: go with a Ugandan friend, unless you want to pay ‘muzungu price’ for every other thing.

Fancy a spot of shopping?

Popular Kampala markets are Nakasero (fruit, vegetables, spices and grasshoppers) and Nakawa (everything – and slightly cheaper than the markets in town). I love Ggaba market on the edge of Lake Victoria. It’s a great place to pick up brightly coloured Tanzanian cloth (as well as all your fruit and vegetables, the cheapest mukenne and other fish, fresh or dried). (The maze-like Owino was once Kampala’s best place for second-hand clothing, shoes and bags; the packed and chaotic downtown is still the best place for all kinds of bargains).

If you’re into arts and crafts and souvenir shopping, head to the extensive ‘Daisy Arcade’ craft market on Buganda Road. There are a small number of craft shops behind the National Theatre too.

Feeling arty?

Kampala has a small but thriving art scene and most exhibitions are free. The best way to find out what’s going on is to follow them on social media. Kampala art galleries include Nommo Gallery, Afriart Gallery on Seventh Street (in the Industrial Area) and Umoja. The Uganda Museum has occasional art shows, in addition to the permanent historic displays. The museum is very dated but still has a certain appeal. It’s definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have a guided tour. Kampala’s Alliance Francaise and Goethe Institute always have a busy timetable of events.

The National Theatre in central Kampala has a programme of dance, drama and art. There are regular shows, films, dance classes and jam sessions. The best way to find out what’s on at the National Theatre is to visit in person or look for their monthly flyer.

The National Theatre was the original venue for the annual Bayimba Festival. Bayimba has since moved to Lunkulu Island on Lake Victoria.

Experience Uganda through music and dance!

The Ndere Troupe’s show is the perfect introduction to Uganda for new visitors, but honestly everyone should watch this brilliant show, more than once! The highly professional Ndere Troupe is a must-see celebration of Uganda and Africa – through traditional music and dance on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights. The Ndere Centre is on Kampala’s Northern Bypass. Read my blog about Ndere’s sensational musical and cultural experience.

Did you know, Kampala has the best nightlife in East Africa?

Don’t take my word for it, dive into Kampala’s nightlife! My friends from Nairobi love this party city. Downtown Kabalagala is famous from here to Kigali to Goma to Bujumbura and Dar – and every part of East Africa in between.

Move over Acacia Avenue and Muyenga, Kisementi and Bugolobi are Kampala’s more popular nightspots these days with new bars and restaurants opening all the time. Kampala’s top hotels have New Year parties, fireworks, live music and more. Ugandans love to party anywhere! Every neighbourhood has several bars. If you like your beer cheap, just sit on a wooden bench outside your local shop. Local ‘pork joints’ are usually good value for money too (unless you’re a vegetarian of course!)

Kampala’s Industrial Area has the city’s best known nightclubs: Guvnors and Ange Noir, but you don’t need to go to a nightclub to dance. Have a few drinks and we will dance anywhere in UG!

Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).

As for getting to all these great places safely, the muzungu is a big fan of “ride hailing apps.” In 2022, Lolo was my new favourite; SafeBoda now provide cars as well as bodas. Uber and Bolt may have been first but they lost the plot during the fuel crisis, with driver after driver doubling the fees. Driving in Kampala is a favourite (tongue in cheek) blog.

Prefer to walk?

Are you interested in history and architecture? The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda has launched a book, maps and a *free* mobile phone app all about Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala’s historical buildings. It’s a fun way to tour the three towns. Read History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a free mobile app.

This page is work in progress – it merely skims the surface of Kampala!

Looking for more thngs to do in Kampala? Send me a message!

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Making an international phone call from Uganda can be pretty straightforward. It can also be a right pain in the kabina (bottom).

When I first arrived in Uganda as a volunteer, I very rarely called home. For some reason outbound phone calls from the UK to Uganda were easier. Skype video calls just didn’t work.

Making a Skype call from Uganda circa 2009

A Skype conversation would go something like this:

Caller: Hi

The muzungu: Hi

Caller: How are you?

The muzungu: I’m fine. How are you?

Caller: I’m sorry, what are you saying? You’re breaking up a bit. Can you say that again?

The muzungu: I can hear you. I’m fine, how are you?

Caller: I can’t really hear you, there’s a bit of an echo on the line, I don’t think I can cope with this.

The muzungu: [Sigh…]

I think to myself: “This conversation is starting the same as the last one, and the one before that. Can we move on and have an actual conversation?”

… Call drops off…

The average conversation lasted for four minutes. I would redial and we would have a two-minute chat. The whole conversation proceeded in two-minute chunks, before one or both of us just gave up.

How to make international calls from Uganda using your mobile phone

Calling directly from your mobile phone in Uganda is far cheaper than it used to be. In fact, sometimes it is cheaper to call than to send a SMS. Mobile phone companies offer call bundles; pre-paid international call bundles are very affordable and can be loaded directly from your Ugandan-registered SIM card. Skype too is better, thanks to improved internet speeds; just don’t expect the video to always work. WhatsApp has transformed connectivity and Ugandans have embraced using Zoom, Google Meet and other communication apps. Rainy weather can affect the quality of the internet (the call quality can also be affected by someone cutting through the internet cable under the sea!)

The best-known providers are Airtel and MTN, and many of us have two phones or dual SIM phones. Other providers include Lyca Mobile, Tangerine, Zuku and Roke Telecom. Note that Africell, Smile, Vodafone and Zain no longer exist and the future of government-owned UTL is unclear (January 2023). It’s very rare to have a home landline phone in Uganda. Airtime can be purchased in tiny amounts and just about anywhere.

How do you pay using your phone if you don’t have a Ugandan bank account?

Mobile money ‘M sente’ has revolutionised airtime and bill payments. Kenya Safaricom led the world in developing M-Pesa, the first solution for sending money and airtime and paying bills via your mobile phone. I rely on mobile money apps to pay my bills. They are robust, reliable, secure and widely accepted. Buy a local SIM card and you can load local currency to buy goods and services and send money to friends, family and colleagues. The two most common providers are MTN and Airtel.

My relationship with MTN

I once spent an afternoon hidden in an airtime vendor’s shack in downtown Kampala, sheltering from an immense thunderstorm. As rain battered the roof, I had an illuminating conversation “Grasshoppers – nsenene: do you eat them or smoke them?”

And then of course there’s “MTN Sunday.” What is that all about? Without fail, every Sunday for several years, I lose contact with everyone. Texts disappear or arrive a day and half later, thus “would you like to meet for Sunday lunch?” has to be organised a day or two in advance. If Sunday is maintenance day, why have I never received a SMS telling me so? (I first wrote this post in 2013 – it was still true in 2018 – and at the end of 2023, I still had issues with my MTN line on Sundays!)

So how does the muzungu call abroad now?

Video Skyping works like a dream now with 4G. My sister prefers FaceTime and mum calls via WhatsApp. I can’t believe how easy it is to call internationally from Kampala now!

How can you access internet on your phone in Uganda?

Ugandan SIM cards can be bought very cheaply everywhere, whether at the exit of Entebbe Airport or at vendor kiosks everywhere. Show your passport to register the SIM card. You can also buy a portable wireless MiFi (some tour operators provide these for guests who want internet accesss while on safari).

You’ll find free WiFi at Entebbe Airport and in most hotels, cafes and restaurants in Kampala and in major towns and popular tourist destinations.

Do you have any tips on how to call internationally from Uganda?

… And if you have other travel tips or advice for expats in Uganda, please comment here or contact the Muzungu. I love hearing from you!

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The Muzungu writes: I often receive questions from visitors to Uganda. Here’s a copy of an email exchange I had in November 2022 with David in the United States. The Ebola outbreak is completely behind us now but I leave this post here simply for historical purposes.

Subject: Travel enquiry

I wanted to travel to Uganda this December, but the State Department says that because of ebola, we should reconsider travel to Uganda. Additionally, that if we do travel, we should expect flights to be cancelled. Finally, on arrival, we have to be taken to [New York (JFK), Newark (EWR), Atlanta (ATL), Chicago (ORD) or Washington (IAD)] designated airports for more screening before being released.

How is the situation? Have you heard of any flight cancellations from Uganda to the U.S because of ebola?

Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving.


The Muzungu replies:

Good morning David. Thanks for your message.

There is no reason why you should alter your travel plans. It’s most likely that you will go directly from Entebbe Airport to the National Parks and there are no reported cases in any of those areas.

Government information I saw yesterday says that we have had no new cases in 10 days. We have detailed contact tracing in place, based on decades of experience managing disease outbreak. World Health Organization, CDC (Center for Disease Control) and others are part of that process.

Most people are continuing to travel as normal. A few people have cancelled trips and a few people have postponed.

Government advisories are always extremely cautious. We are pretty disturbed by how over the top the US / CDC are on this one. They are based on absolute worst case scenarios. We who live in Uganda feel the situation is under control.

If you have any more questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. I answer questions all the time from potential travelers.


Dear Charlotte

Thank you so much for your detailed and informative response. I couldn’t have asked for anything more. I was really scared after reading from the State Department and the CDC [statement stated October 6 2022, link above]. Last thing you want is to be labelled as an ebola carrier.

If you say it is safe to go from the airport to the national parks, then I will talk to my friends so we can go from there. I hope you don’t mind if I share this email with my group with whom I am meant to travel. I want them to see it for themselves. They were all freaked out!

Thx again for the help Charlotte.

The Muzungu writes:

We’re all yearning to travel again post-pandemic so the last thing anyone wants to think about is Ebola…! Thankfully, the outbreak should soon pass.

It may be too early to celebrate any successes, but overall, I have been briefed that the picture is good. As I indicated to you earlier, Ebola is a contact disease, unlike coronavirus which is airborne, hence much easier to control, despite its devastating nature.

President Yoweri Museveni, November 26 2022

I regularly update several blogs, the most important being Latest news from Entebbe Airport. Safe travels! And don’t hesitate to message me if you need a little reassurance from a Ugandan resident like me.

The post An American asks: should we reconsider travel because of Ebola? appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

The brilliant East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post was updated in February 2023. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].

Traveling from Kampala to Kigali? Then read what happened when I traveled by bus with Jaguar Executive Coaches.

Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey.  Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up…  over and over again.

We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?

The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.

Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.

The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat.  My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.

Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.

The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.

Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.

My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.

According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).

Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi

NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.

• MASH buses leave on time.
• The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre. 
• In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
• The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
• To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
• Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you

Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi

(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).

Kampala to Nairobi

At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.

Nairobi to Kampala

At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.

MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.

• Make sure you have your Yellow Fever and COVID-19 vaccination certificates (or a negative PCR test).
• Keep photographs of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone.
• Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
• Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
• Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border as well. There is no form to fill in (just the standard arrivals form) and there is no cost. Yay!
• If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).

  Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas

• Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
• East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
• Rwanda – Rwanda announces all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
• The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.

• The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
• In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
• Dreamline have also been recommended to me.

Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?

The post MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi [UPDATED] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.