Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

“Mgahinga is my favourite place in the whole of Uganda!” my friend Julia told me once, yet I’m amazed at how few people talk about the place: I fell for Mgahinga too! It’s perfect for a weekend break from Kampala or Kigali, for: gorilla tracking, volcano climbing, hiking, walking, bird watching, golden monkey trekking, traditional Batwa dancing and culture – and a smart, homely lodge.

Our journey to the volcanoes started with a morning flight from Entebbe.

The sound of drumming … a girl singing next to the river behind my banda … birdsong in the green, lush gardens … Mount Gahinga Lodge was just what I needed.

From the tiny Kisoro airstrip, our driver Sam took us on the one hour drive to Mount Gahinga Lodge. He pointed out the gahinga, piles of volcanic rock, dug out of the gardens, on sale in neat piles at the side of the road. We peered up at the volcanoes of the weather-battered Mount Sabinyo ‘Old Man’s Tooth’ and the distinctive Mount Muhuvura, ‘the Guide.’

Mount Gahinga Lodge is located on the edge of Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (MGNP), Uganda’s smallest national park, part of the Virunga Conservation Area “Virunga Massif” that links with national parks in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Hot chocolate and the friendliest staff welcomed us at Mt Gahinga for a late breakfast: a plate of mixed fruit, followed by a variety of cooked breakfasts, freshly baked bread and local honey. The excellent coffee is produced at Volcanoes Safaris’ sister lodge in Kyambura Gorge, Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Luckily, we had a variety of physical activities lined up for us to justify the already bulging waistlines!

Mgahinga is an inspiring location and a great base if you’re a hiker or walker. On day one, we hiked across cool, undulating countryside between fields of potatoes in delicate purple flower. Herbert, Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust Project Manager, pointed to the boundary of Mgahinga National Park; the ‘Buffalo wall’ that keeps the occasional four-legged intruder from damaging the farmers’ crops; and then showed us the Congo, on a distant horizon. As we walked, Herbert told us about the traditional life of the Batwa ‘pygmy’ people, former inhabitants of the Central Africa’s ancient forests.

With minutes to spare, we arrived back at the lodge, just as it started to rain. Luck was to be the mainstay of our trip. Tea, silverback gorilla biscuits and crunchy caramelised nuts kept hunger at bay until dinner time as we snuggled inside the lodge around an open fire.

Outdoor activities off the agenda, I opted for Mount Gahinga Lodge’s complimentary massage in a cosy cabin in the grounds of the Lodge. The sound of the coals fizzing on the charcoal stove and the stream next to the cabin sent me into a lazy stupor.

Back in the living room, we sat around the now roaring fire for the first gin and tonic of the evening. Scrumptious three course evening meals included hearty soups and the best Tilapia I’ve eaten in a long time, served with fragrant rice and stir-fried vegetables. Another option was chicken and peanut sauce on a skewer, all followed by home-made apple crumble and custard. Oh yum!

Spot on 7.15 the next morning – as requested – there was a gentle tap on the door and a friendly voice announced the arrival of morning tea.

“Can I open the shutters for you?” He asked.

I jumped back into bed with tea. Note to self: on my next visit, I shall dedicate a whole day to just sitting in bed, drinking tea and reading.

The trek to see the playful golden monkeys, one of Africa’s rarest primates, on day two was a highlight of our trip. Our excellent Uganda Wildlife Authority guide Benjamin really added to the experience. “Golden Monkeys fear Crowned Eagles” he told us. “When the monkeys hear them, they come down from the trees to hide.”

As with trekking the mountain gorillas, the Uganda Wildlife Authority constantly monitor the whereabouts of the golden monkeys, so the chances of seeing them are very high.

The hike to find the monkeys, through the bamboo forest, was just as much fun as seeing the primates themselves. The sightings of a shy Bushbuck and a sleepy Buffalo were unexpected bonuses. (Even our guide was surprised at our luck). We found a tortoise too!

Make sure to wear gaiters (which Mount Gahinga Lodge are happy to lend you) – or at least tuck your trousers inside long socks. (Even so, it’s not 100% guarantee that you’ll keep those tenacious Safari Ants out… )

The lodge’s Batwa Heritage Trail was fascinating and gave us a glimpse into this traditional culture. According to Batwa tradition, when an ancestor was ambushed and trampled by a buffalo during a hunt, the Batwa would immediately move on. After burying the body in the hut, muhanga ‘the mother of all herbs’ and umunanira leaves were picked from the Forest “to make a juice that was taken and the husks thrown behind the hut.” With the bad omens left behind, the hut would then be demolished and the Batwa nomads would move on to make another home elsewhere in the forest.

Batwa community leader Steve, invited us to use his bow and arrow. The Muzungu failed miserably in my attempt to hit the target …

Back at Mt Gahinga Lodge, Margie ‘the Pied Piper’ led an ensemble of more than a dozen harmonica players. It was quite a show.

The Batwa dancers perform at the lodge, several times a week. In addition, every Wednesday, they do a free performance for the community. Herbert told us how this weekly show has really helped build relationships between the Batwa and the Bafumbira, the other tribe in the village.

About Mount Gahinga Lodge

Fragrant Eucalyptus permeated my Banda bedroom Nyiragongo, named after a volcano in the Congo that last erupted in 2002, destroying almost half of the city of Goma. (Hopefully nothing so dramatic was to happen in my named banda!)

The fire had been lit when I returned to my banda in the evening. Even better, the staff had secreted two hot water bottles into my bed under the layers of thick blankets What a treat! (Nights can be cold at Mgahinga).

Based on the design of a traditional Batwa hut, each volcanic stone banda has its own colour scheme. Mine was a bright turquoise with matching Ugandan and Rwandese craft accessories. Mount Gahinga is an eco-lodge run on solar power, but I still enjoyed two hot showers.

The Lodge offers free Wi-Fi, but the remote location of the lodge means you can’t rely on it too much. The Muzungu’s advice? Leave the laptop at home, enjoy some solitude or enjoy a sundowner around the open fire in the living room. Prices are all inclusive (three meals a day plus afternoon tea and snacks, all alcoholic drinks and a variety of community-based activities).

New friends, fantastic food and three activity packed days – made it hard to leave Mount Gahinga Lodge.

The friendly, attentive staff really made us feel welcome. Mount Gahinga Lodge is a great weekend retreat. Next time I go, I plan to climb Mount Sabinyo!

Activities from Mount Gahinga Lodge

The below are all included in the price of an overnight stay at the lodge.

Complimentary massage.

Birding / bird watching. Planting around the Lodge is natural, encouraging a wide variety of bird species. Streaky Seedeaters are commonly seen in the garden. The park is full of spectacular bird life, including a wide range of Afro-montane endemic species, such as: the Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird, Langdon’s Bush-shrike, African Hill Babbler, Dusky Crimsonwing and the Rwenzori Turaco.

Traditional dance performance by the Batwa community and Batwa community Heritage Walk (supported by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust).

Community / scenic Walk. Mount Gahinga Lodge staff are very happy to take you on a walk through the Bafumbira villages. Learn how local baskets are made, watch a performance by a traditional harpist, visit an iron-smith, climb a caldera, enjoy the scenery and visit a local school. This stroll takes about 3 to 4 hours, although the route is not fixed.

Additional activities from Mount Gahinga Lodge

Hike one of the three volcanoes:

Mt. Gahinga (3,474m) is the least challenging climb of the three volcanoes on the Ugandan side. The round trip takes 7 hours and passes through farmland, bamboo and swamp up to the old crater.

Mt. Sabinyo (3,634m) is the second toughest of the three volcanoes. The reward for the steep climb is a chance to summit three countries simultaneously: Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo meet on the peak. This is a round trip of 9 hours.

Mt. Muhabura (4,127m) is also known as Mount Muhavura. Climbing the distinct cone shape of ‘the Guide,’ as it is known locally, is the most demanding. Although not a ‘technical’ climb, it can nevertheless be tough, sometimes cold and muddy. The round hike takes between eight and 10 hours but the ascent is well worth it, for the dramatic changes in vegetation, a chance to swim in a crater lake and breathtaking views as far north as the Rwenzori Mountains.

Gorilla tracking in Mgahinga

Updated 2023: According to the Uganda Wildlife Authority, the Nyakagezi habituated gorilla family of Mgahinga is one of Uganda’s most entertaining families. They also have five Silverbacks! Although at one point they frequently sauntered across the border into Rwanda, they have been permanent residents of Uganda’s forests for several years now. Where once we were hesitant to recommend gorilla tracking here (because we did not want anyone to be disappointed if the gorillas had absented themselves) we now heartily recommend it. During 2018, the Hirwa family from Rwanda also crossed into Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, where they could be tracked (with revenue for tracking split equally between Uganda and Rwanda). The Hirwa gorillas returned to Rwanda during 2020 – I wonder if they will return one day?

Once upon a time, gorilla tracking permits in Mgahinga could be booked at the last-minute. This is no longer the case since Rwanda increased their gorilla permits to $1500, pushing a lot more tourists to Uganda.

If you are interested in tracking the gorillas in Mgahinga, contact the Muzungu or the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Visit this page for the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s Tariff (price list) 2022. The tariff contains all National Park entry fees; hiking; gorilla, chimpanzee and golden monkey tracking permits; birdwatching, boat cruises; nature walks and more.

Ecotourism is a word that’s often used but very few lodges deserve the title. Volcanoes Safaris really deliver. Investments such as solar energy, rainwater harvesting, and low flushing eco-toilets are just some of the environmentally friendly lodge features. The Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust supports activities that enhance the livelihood of local communities and in turn support the survival of the great apes. “We believe (carefully controlled) ecotourism is essential to the survival of the great apes and that local people need to earn a livelihood if they are to appreciate the importance of protecting our closest primate relatives and their habitats.” Volcanoes Safaris Ltd donate $100 to the VSPT from every full cost safari purchased.

Have you visited Mgahinga? Which volcano did you climb? Did you meet the Batwa?

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