Although best known for its group of 1500 raucous chimpanzees, Kibale Forest’s chimps even have their NetFlix series. The whole Toro region has a mesmerizing landscape: mile after mile of rolling green hills, crater lakes and the essence of rural Ugandan life.

Built by hand, Kibale Lodge is thoughtfully designed to harmonize with the rocky outcrop that dominates the 150-acre site. The new luxury lodge will feature eight deluxe rooms, a villa, swimming pool, sauna and spa. I can’t wait to see the final result! The main lodge building will overlook Lake Lugembe in the lodge grounds, with sweeping views of the Rwenzori Mountains, famously known as the “Mountains of the Moon,” and a glimpse of Queen Elizabeth and the Kazinga Channel to the south.

This clip makes me fall in love with Kibale Forest all over again!

Like other Volcanoes Safaris properties, Kibale Lodge has been a long time in the making. Although we had wanted a lodge there for many years, there were no attractive large sites available. So five years ago we started assembling this site, centred on the breathtaking ridge above Lake Lugembe. Finally it has come together.

We have been assessing the topography, light, and weather patterns. The design and build style will ensure the lodge remains consistent with our ecological principles as well as retaining our Afro-chic ethos. The lodge will fit into the landscape in a seamless way, as if it always existed and just grew out of the earth.

Our style of building boutique lodges develops informally and in a fluid way. We like to bring out the natural essence of buildings.

Praveen Moman, the visionary founder of Volcanoes Safaris and a seasoned figure in Ugandan and Rwandan tourism

Kibale Lodge is the natural addition to Volcanoes Safaris’ existing circuit of four “great ape lodges,” these being: Bwindi Lodge, Mount Gahinga Lodge and Kyambura Gorge Lodge in Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. In 2023 alone, Volcanoes Safaris have won a series of awards including Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards, Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards and Marie Claire Sustainability Awards.

Vision

Volcanoes Safaris not only provides high levels of services (think: complimentary massages and personal butlers) in awe-inspiring locations but also distinguishes itself through unwavering dedication to great ape conservation and long-term investment in the local community.

We believe that the conservation of species such as the mountain gorilla has to be part of the economic mainstream to succeed; sensitive and controlled tourism has an essential role to play in conservation; and most of all, if an endangered species is to survive, the focus of conservation and tourism must be on communities getting tangible long-term benefits.

Praveen Moman

In Kibale Forest, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust will collaborate with the Jane Goodall Institute Uganda. This is modelled on the successful community-based conservation projects that have been running at Kyambura Gorge Lodge for over a decade.

Drive times to Kibale Lodge

• An hour from Fort Portal.
• An hour from the airstrip at Kasese, ideal for daily flights to and from Entebbe, and the other Volcanoes Safaris lodges.
• 30 minutes to the starting point for chimp tracking at Kanyanchu in Kibale Forest, one of Africa’s best parks for viewing chimpanzees. Read Diary of a Muzungu’s firsthand account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest in “Pant hoots and knuckle spins.”

Opening offer in 2024

Looking ahead, Kibale Lodge’s first three deluxe bandas will be ready for guests by May 2024; an additional five bandas will be unveiled by the year’s end. To celebrate this milestone, Volcanoes Safaris are offering a special opening promotion. Guests can combine their Kibale Lodge experience with gorilla trekking at Bwindi or Mount Gahinga Lodge and enjoy five nights for the price of four.

For more details, contact Volcanoes Safaris directly enquiries@volcanoessafaris.com – and do mention Diary of a Muzungu sent you

*Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill, a few minutes drive from Kibale National Park.

The post Kibale Forest welcomes Volcanoes Safaris! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.

Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.

Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you

Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel

Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel

Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel

Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala

Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.

Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022

Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala

The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.

Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala

Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala

Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!

Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala

Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.

Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you

For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you

The post Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Where in Uganda can you enjoy a night game drive, engage with experts who are actively conserving a Protected Area and share stories over Masterchef–calibre dinners at the Captain’s Table?

The luxurious Semliki Safari Lodge sits in the middle of Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, a Protected Area that will soon be upgraded to a National Park. “Uganda’s oldest upmarket tented camp” is equidistant from Lake Albert and the excellent new road from Fort Portal to Bundibugyo that winds its way through jaw-dropping Rift Valley panoramas.

This was my third – and arguably my most interesting – visit to this luxury lodge. My mission? To count birds on behalf of NatureUganda… (while being spoiled rotten!)

Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve’s birdlife is fantastic and easily seen. The wildlife reserve may not have the animal numbers of well-established National Parks but forest elephants and a multitude of primates made for three memorable game drives. One morning I even heard the unmistakable sound of a chimpanzee in the forest below my tent.

If you want to reconnect with nature – in luxury and style – I highly recommend a few days at Semliki Safari Lodge.

“I heard a leopard last night” Lodge Manager Tony announced when we checked in – but would we see one?

Scroll down to read the Muzungu’s account of our night game drive and learn about all the diverse activities you can do in and around the lodge.

Semliki Safari Lodge with Diary of a Muzungu

Semliki Safari Lodge, Uganda with Diary of a Muzungu

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Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda, buffalo. Diary of a Muzungu

Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda, buffalo. Diary of a Muzungu

black and white Colobus monkeys. Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu

black and white Colobus monkeys. Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu

Uganda Kob. Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu

Uganda Kob. Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu

Forest elephants Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu

guest book. Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Semliki Safari Lodge luxury travel Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin

tea time. Semliki Safari Lodge. Uganda Diary of a Muzungu

Light lunch. Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Diary of a Muzungu visits Semliki Safari Lodge, Uganda

luxury, Semliki Safari Lodge. Diary of a Muzungu

Scat, cats and bats! A night game drive in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve

We were thrilled when the team suggested we jump in the lodge’s safari vehicle for a night game drive. As we dimmed our torches, fireflies blinked in the darkness and we bumped along the marram track towards the airstrip.

Our first sighting was a pretty little Genet Cat, similar in size to a domestic cat with a bushy tail. Once I was familiar with their eye colour and size, it was easy to pick out more Genets in the woodland either side of the track.

A few minutes from the lodge, we pulled up next to a big puddle. We were amazed when Tony jumped out and plucked a terrapin from the muddy water! He explained how Side-headed Terrapins are common in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve but only appear when the rain fills up the ruts and gullies. “Our guides drive around the puddles to protect the terrapins, rather than through them.” He added.

On the airstrip, a small flat area of cut grass, we cruised slowly up and down looking for nightjars, shy nocturnal birds that are sometimes seen ‘dust bathing’ on the ground. They are masters of camouflage. It’s only when you (almost) run over them that you notice them fly off in alarm.

According to Stevenson and Fanshawe’s Birds of East Africa “Nightjars are a notoriously difficult group to identify: not only do the species look alike, several have different colour morphs.” Don’t ask this casual birder to tell the two species apart, but our guides did. There were two new ticks for the muzungu that night: a Square-tailed Nightjar and a Slender-tailed Nightjar. Temporarily dazzled by our torches, the nightjars sat silent and immobile giving us the chance to admire their delicate plumage.

A Water Thick-knee pretended not to see us. This mainly nocturnal bird “freezes or squats if disturbed,” the book tells us. How true! “They are easily identified by their well-camouflaged brown plumage, large yellow eyes and long thickly jointed yellowish legs.”

Our nocturnal adventure continued with more interesting creatures: a leopard had visited the airstrip not long before us.

As we swept our torches along the ground, we picked out the small dark shapes of animal droppings. On closer inspection, the leopard scat (poo) was crawling with 40 dung beetles. Tony’s eyes lit up with excitement “I’ve never seen so many!” He said. “It’s the remains of a leopard’s kill.”

As we leaned in for a closer look, we recognised fluffy grey baboon fur among the dung beetles, moths and leopard scat. The beetles had clearly been industrious in the preceding 24-hours: little remained of the baboon prey.

Back in the vehicle, we spotted the ears of a young Kob poking through the long grass at the verge of the airstrip.

“Don’t disturb it.” Tony explained how we must not draw attention to this lone calf. It would make easy pickings for a leopard.

As we drove back to the lodge – and around the puddles – a Yellow-winged Bat swept through the night air. The beam of the headlights picked out a Defassa Waterbuck in the sanctuary of the lodge grounds. We may not have seen the leopard, but it was clearly around.

Wining, dining and sleeping – Semliki Safari Lodge’s creature comforts

Even with the reduced number of staff (due to the pandemic) the lodge did a tremendous job of looking after us. Every mouthful of food was delicious. Each ingredient is carefully considered, from the home-made chili to the exquisite pumpkin soup and pretty creations of delicate salad leaves. Breakfast is a gourmet affair of poached eggs with bacon and rocket, cereals and tropical fruit served with home-made bread, chunky marmalade and excellent coffee.

Every night, guests are invited to dine by candlelight with the lodge managers at the Captain’s Table, a rare treat at a Ugandan lodge. Tony and Noline are seasoned Safari experts. (I would revisit Semliki Safari Lodge any time for these shared dining experiences alone!)

The huge dining table – fashioned from one gigantic slab of wood – is perfect for social distancing. Semliki’s main living area of chunky sofas, tribal art and wall murals by the artist Taga is rather grand.

All rooms are fitted to a high standard. The hardwood floor of the luxury tents felt wonderful underfoot and there is generous amounts of hot water for the showers and luxurious outdoor bathtubs. Persian carpets and antique furniture recall a classic African safari. Kikois and slippers are provided, as well as mosquito repellent and a lockable cupboard. Every suite has a daybed on its private deck. (As I write this, I feel the urge to return!)

On a tour of the lodge grounds, lodge manager Tony explained how the units have been re-modelled to maximise the forest views. The new layout almost doubles the floor size of each luxury setup. Where possible, every item has been recycled, including “Amin’s steel,” reclaimed from the ruins of the original Uganda Hotel that once sat on this site. New materials include Elgon olive wood and thatch provided by the nearby Ntoroko Grass Growers’ Association.

Here in the bush, the Uganda Safari Company has invested heavily in solar power, a water borehole, a vegetable garden and more. They supply the water to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and UPDF (army) camps, a key contribution to managing the security of the Wildlife Reserve and its wildlife. Working together, the three organisations have cut the tracks and created a pond for animals to drink from during the dry season, amongst other initiatives. I admire The Uganda Safari Company’s vision – and determination – to protect this little pocket of nature.

What was Diary of a Muzungu doing at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Twice a year the team from Sunbird Hill carry out bird population monitoring on behalf of NatureUganda. Our patch is the Kibale Conservation Area which comprises Kibale National Park, Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Lake Saka / Lake Bikere, Toro Botanical Gardens, Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve.

Why should you go on safari at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Whether you drive – or fly in – to Semliki, I highly recommend game drives with the lodge’s knowledgeable site guides Julius and David. They know the Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve inside out and are full of interesting anecdotes. They are expert drivers too.

What are the rates to stay at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Semliki Safari Lodge have some superb rates for residents. Take advantage of them while you can. The lodge has two packages to choose from: Full Board includes all meals and the Game Package includes meals, certain non-premium drinks and two game drives a day. If you make an enquiry, please say Diary of a Muzungu sent you

Recommended activities from Semliki Safari Lodge

• A night game drive to the airstrip.
• Safari game drive on one of the numerous tracks in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve.
• A dip in the lodge swimming pool.
• Sundowners around the lodge campfire at the lodge or at the Semliki Bush Bar on an evening game drive.
• Luxurious bush breakfasts, picnics and private dinners in stunning locations.
• Primate walk in Mugiri Forest below the lodge. Chimp sightings are not guaranteed but you have a good chance of seeing Olive Baboons, Vervet, Red-tailed and Black and White Colobus Monkeys. Bookings can be made at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office next to the lodge entrance.
• Lake Albert and tours to see the Shoebill are 30 minutes’ drive away and can be arranged by the lodge.
• Semliki is “a Mecca for birders” with over 425 species recorded. My birding highlights included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Crested Francolin, Crowned Hornbill, Palm Nut Vulture, Flappet Lark, White-browed Coucal, Grey Kestrel, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Striped Kingfisher, Helmeted Guineafowl, African Paradise Flycatcher, Black-billed Barbet, Northern Black Flycatcher, Oxpecker, Ruppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Long-crested Eagle, Black Coucal, Grey-backed Fiscal, Rattling Cisticcola, Blue-naped Mousebird, Ring-necked Dove, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Ross’s Turaco, Pygmy Kingfisher, Piapiac, Bateleur, African White-backed Vulture, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, Blue-spotted Wood-dove, Little Bee eater, White-banded Snake Eagle, Fork-tailed Drongo, Black-billed Wood-dove, Lanner Falcon, Spotted Morning Thrush – and two species of Nightjar.
• Look for butterflies. The Sunbird Hill team identified over 50 species including: Blue Sailor, Sulphur Orange Tip, Pea Blue, Red Tip, African Queen, Pearl Charaxes, Citrus Swallowtail, Blue Demon Charaxes, Scarlet Tip and Guineafowl Butterfly.
• Birding in Semliki National Park (SNP) or Ntandi along the main road just outside SNP, just over an hour’s drive from the lodge.
• The hot springs at Sempaya, Semliki National Park.
• Do a day – or longer – hike in the Rwenzori foothills. There are a number of tour operators and community organisations that organise hikes. Send me a message if you would like a recommendation.
• Andrew Roberts, co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide, recommends the (very steep) walk from Ntandi to Karagutu.
• Bundibugyo is the Rwenzori region’s closest town to the DRC (just 10km). There is not a lot to do in Bundibugyo but I find it rather charming. It’s a scenic drive, particularly during the rainy seasons. Look out for cocoa plantations along the route.
• Enjoy the Rift Valley scenery. As you drive from Fort Portal, skirting the Rwenzori foothills to the left, there are a number of roadside stops where you can take photographs. To your right is the Kijura Escarpment, the “eastern wall of the Rift Valley” according to Andrew Roberts’ excellent maps of Uganda.

If you love birds, a tranquil pace, seriously great food and stimulating company, you will love Semliki Safari Lodge. It’s perfect for seasoned safari-goers who want to reconnect with nature.

Would you like to visit Semliki? Which activities would you try?

Read more about Semliki Safari Lodge in my Travel Directory and, if you make an enquiry, please mention the Muzungu sent you 😉

The post Uniquely Semliki appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

It’s funny to think that twelve years ago I knew very little about Uganda. My teenage dream was to live in sub-Saharan Africa and finally I was here, working as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. The first book I bought was the *Bradt Guidebook, the go-to travel planning resource for Uganda. Imagine how delighted I was – a decade later – to finally meet author Philip Briggs on a fact-finding trip to Uganda and how excited I am to be a (minor) contributor to the new edition.

As you might guess, I had been wanting to meet Philip for a long time. I had lots of questions I wanted to ask him! He is author of dozens of guidebooks to a long list of countries. When I grow up, I want to be like Phil.

You’ve been writing the Uganda guidebook for almost 30 years. Where did you travel on your first visit here?

“I first visited Uganda in 1988 on the recommendation of another backpacker I met in Kenya. I travelled to Ruhija (Bwindi Impenetrable Forest) on the back of a tractor to track mountain gorillas. Back then it only cost US$1 but the gorillas weren’t really habituated, and I didn’t see them, just heard them voicing their disapproval from the depths of a facing slope. Since then I have had several more successful tracking excursions, in Rwanda and the Congo as well as in Uganda!

I returned to Uganda in 1992 to research the first edition of the Bradt Guide. A highlight of that trip was a 30 km bike ride from Bulisa to Murchison Falls. There was no lodge there then, I stayed in a Uganda Wildlife Authority / UPDF camp, which is now the site of Red Chilli. I also did the boat ride to the Bottom of Murchison Falls.”

What do you think of tourism in Uganda now?

“Tourism has come a long way since the late 80s and early 90s, when there were a handful of ‘proper’ hotels, and facilities catering to budget travellers were pretty limited. Now there are often dozens of good hotels and lodges in places that then had nothing – for instance Lake Bunyonyi, Murchison Falls, Bwindi, Bujagali.

I didn’t visit Uganda between 2005 and 2015 (a period during which the book was updated by Andrew Roberts) and I saw massive changes – almost all for the better – in Uganda’s tourism industry when finally I did return in 2015.

Uganda tourism hasn’t changed a lot since the last edition of the Bradt Guidebook (published in 2016). Tourism seem to have stabilised and got better overall.

On my most recent visit (2019), I was very impressed with the standard of guiding by Uganda Wildlife Authority. All the guides we had on our most recent trip come across as being very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the park where they work, and its wildlife.”

What happens if you visit a lodge or hotel that’s in the guide and the standards have dropped?

“When I first started writing the Bradt Uganda Guidebook 30 years ago, there were just a few hotels and lodges, so I included them all, even those that warranted quite negative write-ups. These days there are far too many for us to include them all, so accommodation listings are more selective, and I tend to just remove anywhere that I can’t write about in a positive way.”

What is the value of buying a guidebook in these days of social media?

“Online information for countries like Uganda still tends to be quite scattered and patchy. Guidebooks tend to be more comprehensive and coherent resources, with a lot of background and contextual information set against practical information, accommodation and restaurant listings and cross-referenced maps. The Bradt Guide in particular has pretty much all the information you would need to plan a trip to Uganda in one place, logically organised by somebody who knows the country well into cohesive and well-structured regional chapters over almost 600 pages. You simply won’t find that kind of thing in the internet.

That is not to knock social media and other online resources; they most certainly have their place. For me, though, I would still always prefer to use a good guidebook as my initial and primary planning resource and switch over to social media and other online resource for supplementary information.

I also find that people who rely on word-of-mouth channels often end up visiting the same few well-publicised places and doing the same few activities. A guidebook generally offers a greater diversity of off-the-beaten-track options.”

For people who already have a copy of the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, why should they buy the latest edition?

“The most substantial change to the new edition is the expanded coverage of Karamoja and the north-east of Uganda. However, it’s also lots and lots of small details: removing places that have closed and the inclusion of many new places that opened since the eighth edition was researched. (For example in the vicinity of Kibale Forest, we’ve included at least six new lodges, hotels and restaurants, and Sunbird Hill). Prices and contact details for more established lodges are also fully updated. Essentially with edition nine, the Uganda Bradt Guidebook is a whole lot more up-to-date!

Bradt co-author Andrew Roberts was responsible for updating the Kampala section of the guidebook, which has been reorganised to promote more activities and days out.”

What is your least favourite activity when you are researching a destination?

“Checking hotels and lodges. There seem to be more places that need checking with every new edition, and it isn’t something that personally interests me, but it needs to be done!”

Is travel still fun when you’re a travel writer?

“Generally, yes. If I’m walking around a town in the sunshine, it’s certainly more fun than sitting behind a desk. If you’re tracking chimps, it’s great fun of course but if you’re looking at hotels it’s …” Philip pulls a face… (so I think we can guess the answer to that one!)

Diary of a Muzungu writes: Thanks Philip for your insights! It’s amazing to read how much Uganda has changed in the last 30 years.

What’s new for edition 9?

I was delighted to make a few recommendations for the latest edition of Bradt Uganda. They included:

Entanda Cultural Adventure in Mityana

“Head to the award-winning Entanda Cultural Adventure in Mityana to experience a few hours of traditional Ugandan life: expect a joyous welcome of dancing and drumming, bountiful organic fruits, a local lunch and a chance to try traditional hunting and listen to the traditional wisdom (and bedroom secrets!) of the ‘senga,’ all part of your initiation into Buganda culture.” Read the full listing in Bradt Uganda edition 9. Entanda also has a listing in my Travel Directory.

In the Shadow of Chimpanzees, Kibale Forest edge

“Brainchild of primatologist Julia Lloyd, Sunbird Hill is a private birding site that coordinates the NatureUganda Bird Population Monitoring Programme for the Kibale area and is affiliated to registered community / conservation charity In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. More than 240 bird species have been recorded, including 13 of 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda, and the keenly sought green-breasted pitta.” Read the full listing in Bradt Uganda edition 9. In the Shadow of Chimpanzees also features in my Travel Directory.

The Bradt Uganda Guidebook is quite a tome (at 600+ pages, paperback or digital), but there is no other guidebook like it. It works very well read in conjunction with Diary of a Muzungu ”arguably Uganda’s two best travel resources,” according to Mr Briggs.

Bradt Uganda also has an update site where travellers can share their experiences. Philip refers to these updates when he and Andrew Roberts are updating the guidebook, every three years. (Some lodges find it useful to add information there too although there’s no guarantee of inclusion in the subsequent guidebook).

Who is Philip Briggs?

Philip Briggs has been exploring the highways, byways and backwaters of Africa since 1986, when he spent several months backpacking on a shoestring from Nairobi to Cape Town. In 1991, he wrote the Bradt guide to South Africa, the first such guidebook to be published internationally after the release of Nelson Mandela. Over the rest of the 1990s, Philip wrote a series of pioneering Bradt travel guides to destinations that were then – and in some cases still are – otherwise practically uncharted by the travel publishing industry. These included the first dedicated guidebooks to Tanzania, Uganda, Ethiopia, Malawi, Mozambique, Ghana and Rwanda, new additions of which been published regularly ever since. More recently, he has authored Bradt guides to Somaliland, Suriname, Sri Lanka and The Gambia, all published by Bradt. He spends at least four months on the road every year, usually accompanied by his wife, the travel photographer Ariadne Van Zandbergen, and spends the rest of his time battering away at a keyboard in the sleepy coastal village of wilderness in South Africa’s Western Cape.

How do I buy a copy of this fantabulous what to the what guidebook?

Click here to visit the Bradt Guides website. The guidebook is also available at Aristoc in Kampala and all good bookshops.

Are you a Bradt Guidebook fan? Which places in Uganda have you discovered as a result of reading the book? I’d love to know 🙂

The post Bradt Uganda – the definitive guidebook. Edition 9 out now! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

I loved being back in the saddle again. The smell of horses is addictive!

Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo for horse riding, hacking, pony rides for children, horse riding lessons, kids’ Pony Camp.

It surprises me how little leisure time Kampala residents spend next to Lake Victoria, when I know how refreshed I feel after just an hour or two by its waters.You can’t beat the feeling of space you have by the lake which is why, if you’re looking for a new hobby or a day out, I highly recommend some time out at Speke Resort, Munyonyo – ideally on a horse at the Equestrian Centre! High on my bucket list of once-in-a-lifetime adventures is doing a multi-day horseback safari. I used to ride when I was a teenager but I know I need to invest in some more riding lessons before I embark on such a big adventure. My recent stay at Speke Resort – and the smell of the horses! – has really whet my appetite for that bigger endeavour.

Preparing for a horse riding lesson at Speke Equestrian Centre. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Some of the Speke Equestrian Centre’s horses. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

If you’re just having a pony ride or ‘taster’ riding session, you (and your horse!) will be led by an expert from Speke Equestrian Centre down to the marina. The horses are calm and well-behaved.

Prices start from 40k ugx for a 20 minute pony ride. A one-hour hack (for experienced riders) is 70k every day (except Sunday and public holidays when it costs 80k). Rates are slightly higher on Sundays and public holidays. Private or group lessons offer good value for money. Packages of ten lessons are also available. For horse riding enquiries, contact Speke Resort.

In conversation with one of the staff at the Equestrian Centre, he explained that they currently have nine ponies and five large horses suitable for adults. They are expecting to acquire another four horses over the coming months.

In addition to the horses and equestrian facilities, the centre also has a bar where parents and friends can meet for a drink while Little Johnny is learning to ride.

Have you heard about the Kid’s Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre?

Learning how to trot at the monthly Kids’ Pony Camp

The Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre is a two-day event training kids how to ride ponies. Children between the ages of 4 and 17 are invited to enroll for the monthly Pony Camp that’s been taking place at Speke Resort Munyonyo since 2015.

Saturday morning is a riding session. No experience is necessary as children are grouped into beginners, intermediate or advanced riders. In the afternoon, the children go swimming in the resort’s Olympic size pool. On Sunday morning, children are treated to a full breakfast at the resort, followed by a morning ride. Pony Camp finishes at 12.30 with a small prize-giving and Certificates of Participation. There are prizes for the weekend’s best participants: the top two riders get medals, and the third placed rider is awarded a Best Camper Certificate.

Speke’s Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets

Pony Camps costs 100,000 Uganda shillings for the two days. This includes an overnight stay at the accommodation block (in separate boys and girls rooms) next to the Equestrian Centre. (Parents who live nearby may wish to take their kids home for the night and bring them back the next morning). The Sunday breakfast is included in the cost. (Parents are expected to cater for the kids’ other meals).

Have you checked out Speke Resort recently?

Not only is it well-equipped for conferences and large meetings, Speke has a range of weekend activities. On Sunday afternoons at Speke Resort from around 3 PM, you can enjoy a DJ and live band, or acrobats and a market for an entry fee of just 5,000 Uganda shillings per person. Friday night is band night at Lake Terrace and complimentary to guests and everyone eating at the restaurant. Saturdays are frequently busy with weddings and wedding parties. Read Olive’s blog #MarryMeAtMunyonyo – Getting Married At Speke Resort, Munyonyo.

The resort’s swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam are a haven for Kampala residents throughout the weekend. Entry is 40,000 ugx for a full day’s swimming (and all-important lounging!)

Why not make a whole weekend of it?

Interior of one of the new suites

At the time of writing, Speke Resort’s weekend package is $180 full board (excluding taxes) for two people sharing and includes all the above activities and more: a half hour boat cruise and a 10 minute horse ride for children. Bed and breakfast and room only weekend rates are also available, visit the Speke Resort site for all tariffs.

Speke Resort’s marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba

Prefer a round of golf? Guests staying at Speke Resort can get a preferential rates at Lake Victoria Serena Hotel’s golf course, a short drive from Munyonyo thanks to the opening of the Entebbe Expressway.

For info on any of the above, call +256 (0)414227111 or (0)417 716000 or email spekeresort@spekeresort.com or reservations@spekeresort.com

And finally, when you visit the resort, perhaps you’ll see me learning how to ride again, practicing for my next big African adventure – on horseback!

The post Back in the saddle – horseplay at Speke Equestrian Centre appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Mombasa is closer than you think…

I recently flew to the coast – with a few hours stopover in Nairobi. Here are the muzungu’s 17 recommendations on how to fly, where to stay, what to eat, and more!

1. Fly to Mombasa via Nairobi

Our journey to the coast started with an early morning flight from Entebbe to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi.

We passed a day sightseeing in Nairobi, Kenya before catching the short flight to Mombasa.

2. Eat breakfast at Four Points by Sheraton, a hotel that overlooks both the JKIA runway and Nairobi National Park

Breakfast time found us on the outdoor terrace of the Marketplace restaurant of Four Points by Sheraton, a high-class hotel in a unique location.

Whether you are a safari goer or a plane spotter, you’ll love staying at Four Points JKIA. (Rooms are soundproofed so you aren’t disturbed by the planes). I could imagine staying here for business meetings between flights. The hotel caters for tourists, walk-in guests and corporates.

3. Take a safari game drive in Nairobi National Park!

It was fun to fit in a game drive before our early evening flight to Mombasa. Nairobi is the only East African city where you can go on a game drive. Here’s my story about my first safari in Nairobi National Park.

4. Eat lunch at ROAST by Carnivore in Karen

5. Hop on the flight to Mombasa

Woo hoo! THE COAST is calling me! We took the evening flight from JKIA to Mombasa’s Moi International Airport.

6. Soak up the nautical theme at Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali, north coast Mombasa

As we entered the gates of Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, north coast Mombasa, the ascari raised his trumpet to sound a fanfare to welcome us on board. The resort’s fun nautical style is apparent throughout: rooms are known as cabins, floors are decks and the staff dress in naval uniforms. The theme continues as the Voyager ‘docks in a new port’ every day, meaning the resort takes on the menus – and more – of the new destination. One day the Voyager docked in Mexico; another day we docked in Mombasa for Swahili breakfast and dinner. Local fabrics adorn the dining room to complete the look.

Voyager Beach Resort is the ideal location for all-inclusive family holidays on the coast. (It’s the kind of place I LOVED as a kid!) Think kids’ activities, yoga classes, live music, theme nights, family shows, activities for teenagers, watersports centre, gym, three swimming pools, tennis courts and four bars. One night we watched the brilliant Mombasa Roots play live as the ‘Animation Team’ (resort staff dressed in yellow T-shirts with a big letter A on them) got guests moving and a grooving on the dancefloor – (there was some classic Dad Dancing on display too!) Voyager is a mixed crowd of Kenyans and other Africans, Europeans and a few Americans. There’s a super relaxed vibe.

7. Contemplate the colours (and your morals) at the Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple

What a way to start our day… gazing at the gorgeous colours of the temple’s painted walls and doors put me in a fantastic mood. Take a closer look and many of the images are rather scary: dire predictions about how thieves, drinkers and meat eaters will be ravaged in hell. (These graphic warnings did not put us off enjoying everything that Mombasa had to offer us however!)

This temple is a cracker. There’s no charge to enter (and if you arrive before 10.30 am they will open the inner sanctum for you). If you admire temples, there is another one further along Haile Selassie Avenue.

8. Stop for a selfie with ‘Pembe za ndovu’ Mombasa’s giant elephant tusks

Pembe za ndovu is the Swahili name for Mombasa’s famous elephant tusks that form a M shape across Moi Avenue. Selfies here are the classic “look at me, I’m in Mombasa” shot.

According to my driver, Mombasa’s tusks (thin sheets of metal) were erected in 1956 by a European. He got the date right. The European was Princess Margaret of Great Britain who visited that year. Does the M stand for Margaret or for Mombasa?

Be mindful of the traffic while posing for your selfie – Moi Avenue is a busy road.

9. Taste local snacks on Mama Ngina Drive

Mama Ngina Drive is famous for the freshly fried kachri ya muhogo cassava crisps and chilli washed down by madafu coconut water – the perfect combo!

You can pick up tourist souvenirs and trinkets on Mama Ngina Drive. (I doubt you should buy the seashells and many countries won’t allow you to take them through customs). This makes thought-provoking reading: You might want to think twice before buying a seashell souvenir.

I’d avoid the rather dilapidated toilets in the Mama Ngina heritage building if you can. (The blue and white building looks like a lighthouse). The place is clean enough for the cheap entry price but toilet doors don’t seem to lock.

From Mama Ngina Drive, you can watch the non-stop flow of human traffic embarking and disembarking the Likoni Ferry that connects north and south coast Mombasa. As we watched the tens of thousands of people pass by, you might imagine they are running to catch an Underground train in London or the Metro in Paris.

10. Pretend to be a commuter: take the Likoni Ferry

The July weather had us running down the slope in the rain to catch the ferry from Mama Ngina Drive across to Likoni. Pedestrians travel for free; cars, tuk tuks, and heavy lorries pay a small fee. Men on bicycles ship jerry cans; women carry bundles of produce for the market; small trucks are loaded with goats.

As soon as the Likoni Ferry fills up, it sets off for the other side of the creek. The journey lasts just a few minutes but gave us a chance to look upstream to the Port of Mombasa and downstream to the Indian Ocean. The Likoni Ferry may not be on every tourist’s itinerary but it does give you an insight into the everyday lives of the people of Mombasa.

11. Step into 500 years of history with a guided tour of Fort Jesus

Despite numerous trips to – or should I say through – Mombasa, this was my first time to visit Fort Jesus. Entry fees to Fort Jesus are 400 KES (local price) or 1200 KES (muzungu price!) plus guide fee, which is negotiable.

Our guide Dunga recounted the history of Fort Jesus. In 1498, Vasco de Gama – with a Christian cross emblazoned on his sail – first passed the Kenyan coast en route to India. In 1593, the Portuguese invaded and built Fort Jesus as a military garrison.

Beyond the heavy cannons, the Fort Jesus’ small museum records the history of conquests and sieges by the Portuguese, Arabs, Omanis and British. On display are pottery, old stamp collections and beautiful artefacts from Persia, Oman and China. The Omani Museum showcases modern displays in an ancient building. I wish I’d paid more attention. (Next time I’ll leave my camera behind and just take my notebook…)

The areas open to the public are small enough to make Fort Jesus an easy trip of half a day or less. Visit early morning when it is not too hot. Afterwards, drink some fresh tamarind juice under one of the ancient trees on the main road.

Mombasa is a melting pot of African, Arab and European influences. Nowhere is this more evident than in Fort Jesus.

12. Explore the Old Town of Mombasa on foot

The Old Town of Mombasa is an interesting mix of narrow streets and Swahili architecture. Hire a local guide to scratch below the surface of this UNESCO-listed city. I adored the antiques and knick-knacks in the Gallery Shop, one of many curio shops. I could have spent all afternoon browsing!

13. Enjoy the ocean breeze at Forodhani Restaurant

Forodhani’s quiet location is five minutes’ walk from Fort Jesus, next to the Old Port, with a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and English Point, a small promontory of land on the north coast opposite Fort Jesus.

Beyond its setting, the restaurant is nothing special to look at, some plastic tables and chairs, no table decoration. Since I was in a Muslim city, I decided to try a mutton biryani; it came in a spicy tomato sauce with plenty of meat. I also ate a delicious lamb kofta sausage. According to my Kenyan travel companions, the standards were not as good as before. Service was average and staff attention was minimal but lunch was pretty affordable (and the restaurant worth visiting simply for the view and the cool breeze!)

Across the water is English Point Marina, a state of the art luxury development that looks across to Fort Jesus.

14. Chill on a sunset dhow cruise and dine at La Marina Restaurant, Mtwapa

Our sunset cruise along the inland waterways of Mtwapa Creek left from the jetty at La Marina, where our enthusiastic hostess Alice took our dinner orders and organised my preferred tipple of Kenya Cane rum for our cruise boat’s bar. The leisurely cruise was a calming tonic after our day exploring the city of Mombasa. Our small group had the whole creek to ourselves that night. Oh the starlit sky!

The candlelit, open air palm tree terrace at La Marina Restaurant is a romantic setting on the edge of the creek. (I feel relaxed just remembering that night). Dinner was exquisite: calamari in a creamy sauce for me, followed by grilled suli suli  Kingfish. Other seafood options were octopus, sushi, baked oysters, king prawns and grilled lobster. I’ve always loved seafood (even more now that I live in land-locked Uganda and visits to the coast are such a treat!)

La Marina Restaurant is a short drive north from Nyali. Call +254 (0)723 223737 for bookings. For the full romance, watch the sun going down aboard a traditional Arab dhow.

15. Feed the giraffes and crocodiles and meet a 200 year old tortoise at Haller Park

During Mombasa’s hot months, there’s no place I’d rather be than here underneath the trees. What a gift Haller Park is!

Haller Park deserves several entries in this list of things to do in Mombasa as there are so many activities you can take part in, from physical exercise to animal feeding to educational tours.

Be there at 11 o’clock or 3 o’clock to take part in the giraffe feeding. Crocodiles also get a little snack every day at 4.40 pm. (They have their main feed of 10 kg of meat just once a month).

There were shrieks from our group as we passed through the reptile enclosure. Many of the snakes had been rescued from local homes. I don’t mind snakes but felt rather nervous when the Puff Adder eyeballed me. That snake has a mean reputation!

During the 1950s, the Haller Park site was a Bamburi Cement quarry. Thanks to the vision of a certain Dr Haller, the barren quarry site was reclaimed for the environment: it is now a popular location for biking and running the nature trails, and school trips, thanks to Lafarge Eco Systems (a subsidiary of Bamburi Cement).

Haller Park opened to the public in 1984. The transformation from barren site to lush woodland is phenomenal and gives me hope for the future.

Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to meet Owen the hippo and Mzee, his giant tortoise buddy!  When Owen was stranded after a tsunami, he was rescued by Kenyan villagers. To everyone’s amazement, the orphan hippo and Mzee, a 130-yr-old tortoise, became inseparable. Photos of their friendship made them worldwide celebrities. Their friendship has even spawned a Broadway musical!

16. Admire the multi-coloured starfish on a glass-bottomed boat ride and snorkelling adventure

I never knew starfish came in so many colours! Orange, red, blue, brown and grey were clearly visible as our boat motored along the coast. But note: don’t pick up the starfish. Pulling them out of the water can kill them, even if they are put back! And boat operators turn a blind eye to this…

The highlight of our afternoon was anchoring in shallow water and walking to an exposed sandy ledge of the reef to explore the crevices of the rock pools for sea urchins, starfish and shellfish.

Kenya Wildlife Service manages the country’s protected areas. In addition to the cost of the boat ride, you’ll need to pay the Mombasa Marine National Park entry fee if you want to snorkel.

Snorkeling, scuba-diving lessons, big-game fishing, windsurfing and canoeing and dhow safaris can all be arranged from Voyager Resort.

17. Taste Nyali nightlife!

Next stop Tapas Cielo lounge bar for a Johnnie Walker /DJ night. Eddy Kenzo and Sauti Sol videos made a perfect night of it at Anuba Lounge.

I wish I’d stayed longer in Nyali. I get the feeling that Mombasans are very like Ugandans – they’re easy going and love to party!

More about Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, Mombasa

We were so caught up in sightseeing in Mombasa, I’m not sure I did the Voyager’s facilities justice. It’s the perfect base for family holidays, with an extensive programme of activities, sports, entertainment, shows and tours for all ages. However, research for this blog forced me to sample the bars – at least!

My favourite was the Lookout Bar (above the beach) and the small Harbour Bar near the restaurant. Go find Raymond – he’s an award-winning cocktail maker!

Voyager caters to many tastes: European, Indian, African and more. While most meals are served buffet-style in the main restaurant, Voyager’s Minestrone Restaurant has an Italian à la carte menu (included in the all-inclusive price).

The Smugglers’ Cove restaurant is hidden in a coral cave! The food was superb (discounted for Voyager residents).

The balcony of my deluxe room looked onto gardens of palm trees, just 50 metres from the beach. It was perfect. The room had aircon, TV (did I even switch it on?), fridge, a good size safe, a powerful shower and plenty of complimentary toiletries. Voyager has 234 cabins, of various styles, each with its own balcony.

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TIP: get up early to view the morning mist swirling around the volcanoes in the distance!

I recently spent two nights at The Peak Spot Lodge near Kinigi while researching an ecotourism guide to gorilla tracking.  The Peak Spot is a cosy independently-owned lodge ideally located for travellers going gorilla tracking in Rwanda. It’s also a lovely place to just chill out.

This lodge is slightly off the beaten track, but absolutely worth it! You will not hear a vehicle the whole time you’re there.

The last few kilometres to The Peak Spot Lodge are on dirt roads, where progress is slow enough to smile and wave back at the villagers shouting “hello friend”

An invigorating start to the day: sunshine, fresh air and the smell of Eucalyptus

Every morning I travelled by moto (boda boda) motorbike taxi from The Peak Spot to the start of the gorilla tracking at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters in Kinigi. Here I mingled with tourists, watched the excellent Intore traditional dancers and interviewed some of the rangers who monitor, track, protect – and love – Rwanda’s mountain gorillas.

The drive by motorbike from The Peak Spot to Kinigi took 25 exhilarating minutes door-to-door. I was filming much of the way, enjoying incredible scenery and views of traditional village life. Most of the drive is on an excellent tarmac road that winds along to Kinigi itself.

It can be rather chilly in the mountains (especially for those of us who are used to the year-round warmth of Kampala!) but the lodge staff lit an open fire for us every time we sat down to eat or drink. The all-rounder staff member Alexis always knew when to put another log on the fire or come and refill our drinks. (It’s hard work playing Scrabble and listening to rock music you know!) He was also there to fill up our hot water bottles and tuck them under the bed covers for us. (Each bedroom also has a heater and a hot shower of course).

The lure of an open fire

“I hate Scrabble” I moaned until my competitive streak kicked in! A whole weekend marathon of Scrabble followed

Dinner was a simple but filling three-course meal of soup, main course and dessert. The Peak Spot has a well-stocked bar. We felt right at home when we noticed the bar stocked our favourite tipples (Uganda Waragi and Bond 7 respectively) but don’t forget to try a local beer too! Mutzig goes down a treat.

A close encounter with a member of Rwanda’s Susa family. Click on the image to link through to my “Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla tracking”

Everyone who goes gorilla tracking in Rwanda goes home with a certificate. Bragging rights, yay! My hour with the Susa gorilla family was action-packed

Between daydreams of gorillas and chatting around the fireplace at The Peak Spot, we ran out of time to taste banana wine or go on the community walk to the neighbouring village. I did enjoy walking around the lodge gardens however. The recycled Heineken beer bottle borders to the paths gave an unusual touch to the garden’s design.

How to travel to The Peak Spot from Kigali

I’ve been lucky enough to stay in a wide variety of lodges across East Africa. “Planes, trains and automobiles,” I’ve done the lot. On this occasion, we travelled by public transport between Kampala and Kinigi, and it could not have been easier.

Leaving The Peak Spot, we rode motos directly to Musanze (for 2,000 Rwandese francs) to catch a coaster to Kigali (for 1,750 Rwandese francs). From Nyabugogo bus park in central Kigali, we jumped on the Jaguar overnight coach back to the Pearl of Africa.

The Peak Spot “Jewel of the Virunga” is a great base for gorilla tracking, hiking and more

The Peak Spot opened two years ago and currently has one family cottage and three rooms, from $75/night. Two more cottages are being built. This rate includes breakfast lunch and dinner and a sauna. Tents are also available for $20 per person per night (to sleep two or four people).

The lodge has Wi-Fi and a small shop that sells some very cool T-shirts. The lodge even has a sauna! (I will have to come back to try that out). There are also plans to hire a masseur.

Thanks very much to Habib, Alexis, Benon (and all the behind-the-scenes staff that I did not meet). They gave lots of useful advice on the costs of public transport, the weather, what to wear, where to change money, called motos every time we needed one, and more. If you’re looking for an authentic Rwandese experience, at an affordable rate, look no further.

You can contact The Peak Spot via their web site or call +250 788441652. Please say the muzungu sent you

Are you interested in tracking the gorillas in Rwanda? Then get in touch with the muzungu for more travel ideas and gorilla tracking tips.

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The Bee Hive is conveniently located directly opposite the Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary, along the excellent Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road. You can’t fail to miss the big brown and honey-coloured striped building!

Looking for a tourist restaurant near Fort Portal? Or somewhere to hang out between chimp tracking in Kibale Forest and Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary Walk?

Just five minutes’ drive from Kanyanchu (the meeting point for tracking chimps in Kibale National Park), The Bee Hive is a great stopover for coffee, tea or cold drinks after tracking the chimpanzees. The reasonably priced restaurant menu includes local favourites like pumpkin soup, goat stew and rolex (omelette in a chapati in case you haven’t tried one yet) as well as international dishes, beers, wine and spirits. On a previous visit, I really enjoyed tucking into the spaghetti bolognese (goat of course!)

If you’re a sports fan, The Bee Hive has a pool table with regular pool competitions. You can also watch sports and international news on their 50″ screen and satellite TV. (The Bee Hive is the only venue in the area with a back-up generator back-up – so you won’t miss any of the TV action).

The Bee Hive is recommended in the Bradt Uganda Guide edition 9, the current edition (2021). “Set in a conspicuous orange and brown two-storey building opposite the Bigodi Swamp Walk office, this pub-like venue has a pool table, a TV for watching Premier League and other major football matches and a first floor veranda offering views to the Rwenzori in clear weather. A tempting menu of stews, curries and grills is supplemented by cheaper burritos, breakfast (including Rolexes), fresh coffee and desserts. Mains in the US 4-5 dollar range.”

As the name hints, The Bee Hive also sells honey that is harvested from beehives positioned on the boundary of Kibale National Park to deter elephants crossing to villagers’ land. You can even take part in the unique “Bees and Elephants Tour” which I describe here in my Travel Directory.

I love these kinds of projects, as regular blog readers will remember from my days as a volunteer in elephant and community conservation. (Honey is such a great present to buy for folks back home).

Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks, I recommend The Bee Hive for good wholesome food, cold drinks (make mine a beer), coffees (Gorilla Conservation Coffee, of course!) ice-cream and a fab view of the countryside. Outside tourist lodges, The Bee Hive is the only restaurant and bar in the area that caters for both local and international tastes.

TIP: If you’re travelling in a group, or want to hold a private meeting call Erias the Manager on +256 (0)785 948488 to reserve your tables.

How to find The Bee Hive

The Bee Hive is midway between Fort Portal and Kamwenge, about 4 km south of Kanyanchu Tourist Centre. To be honest, you can’t miss it! It’s 38 km from Fort Portal and 3.5 km from Sunbird Hill.

For latest updates from the Bee Hive, like the Facebook page.

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Sunbird Hill Research and Monitoring Site in western Uganda is a haven for nature enthusiasts that have ticked off the Big Five and are ready to search for the smaller – yet equally impressive – creatures of Uganda.

Sunbird Hill is ideally situated for anyone planning to track the chimpanzees or the Green-breasted Pitta in Kibale Forest or for general birdwatching around Kibale Forest. It’s also a wonderful location to relax and enjoy the pure forest air and the natural sounds emanating from the forest. I’ve been visiting this fabulous part of Uganda regularly since 2009. One definite plus about visiting Sunbird Hill is having the chance to meet Julia Lloyd, the resident primatologist. If you love chimpanzees, you’ll be amazed at her stories of her many years living and working deep in Kibale Forest.

National and international experts who visit Sunbird Hill on a regular basis include ornithologists, lepidopterists, herpetologists, botanists, entomologists and primatologists. Bird ringing (or banding) occurs periodically throughout the year. Bird ringing in Kibale Forest is one of my all-time favourite blogs. Contact me if you’d like to learn more about the next ringing trips.

What is Sunbird Hill?

Sunbird Hill is situated on 40 acres of private land bordering Kibale Forest. It is just off the Fort Portal – Kamwenge Road, 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre (base for chimpanzee tracking in Kibale National Park) and 3.5 km from KAFRED at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary.

Julia writes:

We are a British-Ugandan family passionate about wildlife and conservation. Our compound is a traditional open plan dwelling, with grass thatched houses, a treehouse, large elevated research office and a kitchen garden. Guests are welcome to stay in Butterfly Cottage, a brick and wood cottage that stands in its own compound next door to our family compound. For the more adventurous, we have a trio of elevated thatched cottages – with views of Kibale Forest – to house visiting biology experts. These are open to the occasional tourist too.

Sunbird Hill is regenerating farmland. This, and its location on the edge of the forest, means the land has numerous microhabitats that give it a high species richness: plants, insects, amphibians, reptiles and mammals and our main passion: birds. Species lists are constantly being updated, and so far we have recorded 14 of the 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda. The recent visit from ornithologist Roger Skeen has pushed our bird species list above the 240 mark. He was very excited to spot a Lemon Dove. We know there are many more birds yet to be identified at Sunbird Hill (and we challenge all visitors to add to our bird list!) We know that NatureUganda members will definitely add many more ticks to our list. We are proud winners of the 24 hour Big Birding Day four years in a row (category: Outside Protected Areas / Private Site).

Calls from wild chimpanzees are regularly heard, especially at night and early in the morning when chimps call out to each other from their night nests (making ‘contact calls’ as they are known in the primatological world). These primates are often seen when the fig tree at the end of our garden is laden with fruit; half of the tree’s canopy is in Kibale Forest National Park. Often elephants can be heard breaking trees during their nightly forages whilst the distinct calls of the resident Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl and Black-shouldered Nightjar reveal their identity.

Activities at Sunbird Hill

The Sunbird Hill Experience: explore our nature trails on the edge of Kibale Forest

The Birders’ Lounge

The Birders’ Lounge is a large thatched bird-themed shelter that houses our growing reference library and covers topics including: ornithology, mammalogy, primatology, entomology, herpetology, and botany, as well as ecology, conservation and African travel. Comfortable chairs, desks and work benches are surrounded by Ugandan natural history paraphernalia. The garden around the Birders’ Lounge is full of native and naturalised flowering plants carefully selected to nurture a diversity of birds and butterflies – perfect for the armchair nature enthusiast (and those of you with heavy photographic equipment!) Our bird baths, bird hide, butterfly mud puddle and pond just keep pushing our species lists up!

Paths wind through the 40 acres of land that borders Kibale Forest taking you through forest edge, woodland, bushland, grassland, farmland, wetland, and riverine habitats. (Pre-booked) visitors are invited to follow the nature trails with one of our experienced site guides.

Sunbird Hill was set up to support the local NGO In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. Our concept is that national and international experts train our Sunbird Hill team who in turn train the youth of Kyabakwerere Village in a diversity of wildlife identification and information whilst inspiring conservation. In the Shadow of Chimpanzees is setting up village tourism on a section of the Sunbird Hill land that is dedicated to community use. A butterfly house and gardens, medicinal plant garden, bee hives, and elephant trench have been initiated. And our football pitch is almost ready – you are welcome to join the team for a friendly kick around.

“Silver’s Story: A Walk with an Ex-Poacher” is one of our most popular activities. Silver has gained national recognition for his ex-poacher story. He laid down his weapons to join the Uganda Wildlife Authority as a ranger. Now retired, visitors can spend time with Silver and hear snippets about his expert animal tracking techniques and his main passion: butterflies.

On the Sunbird Hill Experience, one of the trained site guides will point out and provide insightful information on birds, butterflies, moths and plants as well as the occasional primate, reptile and amphibian sighting. What cannot be identified during the walk is photographed and identified at Sunbird Hill’s extensive reference library back at the Birders’ Lounge.

Guests who are staying overnight at Sunbird Hill are welcome to join the Sunbird Hill Bird Club that meets 7.30 a.m. every Wednesday at the Birders’ Lounge. Bird Club includes a morning nature walk before heading back for refreshments, consultation with the reference books and documentation of our findings. As the birds quieten down, the Bird Club morphs into Butterfly Club, an interest that is growing rapidly among local guides.

Recommended activities within a few minutes of Sunbird Hill

We live in a truly Ugandan village environment so if you would like to see more of the rural village of Kyabakwerere, a member of our staff will be happy to escort you.

Chimpanzee Tracking (Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park), Bigodi Swamp Walk (Bigodi) and Tooro Cultural Centre (Bigodi) are less than 10 minutes drive from Sunbird Hill.

Accommodation at Sunbird Hill

Butterfly Cottage has breath-taking views over the forest, with the chimps’ favourite – the statuesque fig trees – clearly in view from the large veranda. A spotting scope is available for viewing the birds, monkeys and chimpanzees (although note that seeing chimps  from Sunbird Hill can’t be guaranteed). The cottage has a comfortable double bed (twin beds are also available) with mosquito net, en-suite bathroom with warm shower and flush toilet, fridge, reliable lighting and charging facilities. It has a mezzanine floor where two single mattresses can be added.

Eat in or out at Sunbird Hill

Butterfly Cottage, the three elevated cottages and the Treehouse are available on a ‘bed only’ basis. There is a well-equipped Camp Kitchen available for your use. Alternatively, you can order simple meals at 20,000 ugx per meal, when booked in advance at Sunbird Hill.

We also suggest eating (or getting delivery) from The Bee Hive Bar & Bistro opposite Bigodi Swamp just 3.5 km drive from Sunbird Hill. The Bee Hive has great views over Kibale Forest and has a reasonably priced local and international-style menu and bar (cold beers guaranteed!) The Bee Hive also has satellite TV (and back-up generator) and a pool table. Read more about Diary of a Muzungu’s visits to The Bee Hive here. It’s a great little place!

How much does it cost to visit Sunbird Hill?

The elevated cottages are $100 per night, based on two adults sharing. Add $20 per extra person (each elevated cottage has one double and two single beds). (The construction of the cottage makes it unsuitable for little children). 

The Treehouse – everyone’s childhood dream! – is cosy and self-contained with one double bed and is $100 per night based on 2 people sharing.

The above rates include accommodation, access to the Birders’ Lounge for armchair birding, use of the reference library and bird hide and a walk with our Site Guides. If you stay Tuesday night, participation in Wednesday Morning Bird Club is free of charge.

The Sunbird Hill Experience bird / nature walk fees include tea and coffee and nibbles at the Birders’ Lounge. Cold beers, sodas, local gin tots and snacks are available at extra cost.

Please note: access to the nature trails is strictly only available to people who are accompanied by our site guides and who have booked and paid in advance. Be aware that you are not allowed to enter the National Park from Sunbird Hill.

Discounts are available to members of NatureUganda, NatureKenya, East African Natural History Society, Explorers’ Club, Lepidoptera Club of Africa & African Bird Club. (Proof of membership required). “We want you naturalists here!” Says Julia.

Directions. How to get to Sunbird Hill

Sunbird Hill is 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park and is 3.5 km from The Bee Hive Bar & Bistro in Bigodi off the Fort Portal-Kamwenge Road.

Keep up to date with Sunbird Hill via their Facebook page or WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 to make an enquiry. Booking in advance is essential.

Diary of a Muzungu adds:

Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine. If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Sunbird Hill isn’t run as a lodge so isn’t for your mainstream tourist. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from the forest. It’s magical! (And if you’re serious about birding then you can’t miss a trip to this lovely corner of western Uganda).

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My hands were full. With one hand I pulled my suitcase on wheels; in the other I was carrying – and trying to quickly drink – a hot cup of coffee before boarding my early morning flight to Istanbul.

A member of Turkish Airlines staff smiled at me and grabbed hold of my trolley to help me walk down to the plane. She introduced herself as Kesvar. “You’re the nicest person I’ve met all day,” I said, relieved to be past Heathrow’s hard-nosed, sarcastic security personnel.

“I believe in karma,” she said. “I always help pregnant ladies and old people.” (Which category did she think I fell into – I had to wonder!)

A special thank you to the lovely Kesvar, a member of the Turkish Airlines ground crew at Heathrow Airport

My new friend Kesvar and I chatted all the way down to the plane. We talked about Istanbul, my next stop. “You must go and eat fish and bread next to the Bosphorus,” she insisted. We talked about fabulous Turkish food. We agreed how easy it is to get into Istanbul city centre from the airport. It’s cheap too! Istanbul has made sure that a short stopover in the megapolis is as easy as possible. Talking to Kesvar was like being welcomed to Istanbul and I hadn’t even left London!

Marvel at Istanbul’s incredible architecture on a boat ride along the Bosphorus. The journey takes you through hundreds of years of history

By the time my little suitcase and I boarded the plane, I was one of the last. Everywhere I looked, the overhead lockers appeared full. There was no room in the locker above my seat so I wandered up and down the aisle looking for a little space. There was none in economy.

I managed to get the attention of one of the airhostesses who invited me to follow her into business class. We giggled as we shuffled the other bags around so we could wedge my lucky little suitcase into a corner of one of the business class lockers. It was quite a workout!

Finally in my seat, I settled down to watch the quirkiest airline safety video. I’ve watched these videos so times that I tend to switch off when they start. The Turkish Airlines video grabbed my attention though. Even though it was played in Turkish to start with (then later in English), I couldn’t help but be drawn in by the clever graphics. Meet internet sensation Zack King!

This is Zack King. The off-the-wall style of the Turkish Airways in-flight safety video was great viewing – I loved watching it (twice!)

It’s a brilliantly done piece with animation and subtitles throughout. My sister Sarah is deaf. I know how left out she feels when other airlines don’t provide subtitles on in-flight entertainment. The Turkish Airlines safety video even has an interpretive signer. Sarah would love it!

I always enjoy Turkish Airlines’ meals and they were as good as ever: a tasty salad, a pasta dish and chocolate dessert.

Suleymaniye Mosque. Diary of a Muzungu visits Istanbul on a stopover between London and Entebbe

Breathtaking! An interior view of Hagia Sophia / Aya Sofya is a highlight of an Istanbul city tour

Although I had planned three days in Istanbul, unfortunately commitments in Entebbe meant I could not delay as planned. Nonetheless, my short stopover at Ataturk Airport in Istanbul allowed me time to sample some delicious honey-flavoured baklava and a cold Efes beer and stock up on boxes of Turkish Delight for friends in Kampala. Two hours free Wi-Fi gave me plenty of time for me to catch up with everyone.

Drink a Turkish Efes beer in Istanbul! Or better still, take a few days and explore the city, en route between London and Entebbe

There is so much more to see in Istanbul! Read my blogs about this superb and accessible city.

Crossing continents – the Muzungu’s Istanbul city tour and A day in … Istanbul.

Breathtaking! An aerial view of Istanbul at night

Travel tips

• – Since my flight departed early, I slept overnight in a futuristic pod at Yotel in Terminal Four. Turkish Airlines depart from Terminal Two. It took five minutes to reach the lower ground floor and catch the Heathrow Express train which runs free of charge between the terminals and arrives every 15 minutes. The journey between terminals four and two takes five minutes. Once inside Terminal Two, there is a five-minute walk (with travelators) to the departures area.
• – I had checked in online. At departures, all I had to do was scan my passport at the booth, input the number of hold bags and the machine printed out my luggage tags and boarding pass. It could not have been easier. On this flight I had two 20 kg bags (thank you very much) + 8 kg allowance for cabin baggage. I always plastic wrap my bags (£12.50 each at Heathrow). Having a light canvas holdall means the weight allowance goes on the contents of the bag, not the bag itself. The bag drop next to check-in was quick. All I had to do was show my boarding pass.
• – Before you pass through security at Heathrow Airport, double check for small amounts of liquids hidden in hand luggage. I left a tube of toothpaste in my carry-on bag so security insisted on going through the whole bag with a fine toothcomb.
• – If you are in a rush, avoid standing in line behind people with kids and a pushchair. Every single part of the pushchair has to be scanned. The poor mother of the family in front of me was totally unprepared for this – she had turned up at the airport with bags full of liquids and creams for the baby. Each liquid had to be tested individually.
• – Don’t get on the plane last if you have a suitcase to stow in the cabin – learn by my mistakes!

My flights from London via Istanbul and onto Entebbe went without a hitch. Air travel isn’t always so smooth – you might get a giggle out of these two air travel stories:

A short-tempered muzungu flies to Istanbul

Airport drama # 1 – “The plane is closing” 

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