If you can do all – or even one – of these sports, then why not get a team together for the superb Kyaninga Triathlon on May 18th 2024? (We still have time to get in shape!) You can also sign up for a fun run, duathlon or bike ride.

The annual triathlon takes place in the glorious countryside around Kyaninga Lodge outside Fort Portal, western Uganda. Full details – prices + how to enter + race descriptions + contact details – are on the Kyaninga Events website.

I’ve also written extensively about all Kyaninga sporting / fundraising events here Run or Ride the Rift? Sign up for Kyaninga’s 2024 events now! NOTE: info is updated every year.

Kyaninga Triathlon, Fort Portal - previous events

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Kyaninga Triathlon, marathon, run the rift events Uganda

Kyaninga Triathlon, marathon, run the rift events Uganda

Kyaninga Triathlon, marathon, run the rift events Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Fancy winning a cool prize, like a free night at one of Uganda’s top lodges?

Scroll down to read how to buy raffle tickets to stays at top lodges, free meals and more, including: Kyaninga Lodge, Ndali Lodge, Buhoma Lodge, Mihingo Lodge, Red Chilli Hideaway, Aramaga Rift Valley Lodge, Seasons Lodge Zanzibar, Little Elephant Camp, Kikorongo Safari Lodge, Rwakobo Rock, Turaco Treetops and Trekkers Safari Lodge.

Help change the future of children with disabilities in Uganda

All proceeds of these fundraiser events go to the amazing Kyaninga Child Development Centre who work with disabled children and their families. I have seen the positive impact of their work – it’s life-changing! 13% of children in Uganda – that’s more than 2.5 million children – are living with a disability

How to register for the Kyaninga Triathlon + how to buy raffle tickets to win awesome prizes at lodges, cafes and restaurants across Uganda

1. Visit the Kyaninga Triathlon website for more info.

2. If you’re in Uganda, register for all these events OR pay for raffle tickets by using MTN MoMo Pay 613517.

3. Got a question? WhatsApp Fiona at KCDC on +256 778277248 or events@kyaningacdc.org

4. Buy a ton of raffle tickets! You can even buy them remotely and your numbers will be sent via WhatsApp.

5. Looking for ideas on accommodation around Fort Portal? Send me a message.

The post Run, cycle or swim? (Win fab prizes!) Kyaninga Triathlon May 2024 appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Being a developing country, things change quickly here in Uganda: I’ve never lived anywhere that evolves so fast. Uganda has mushrooming numbers of lodges and guides, new subjects such as adventure tourism and every other person I meet wants to join the industry, or so it feels. We’re living in exciting times – but not without their challenges – which is why in 2024, I’ll be focusing more on responsible tourism and sustainable tourism, my true passions. As I read last week: “The tourist sector has both a wondrous opportunity to lead in global climate awareness and action, and a heavy responsibility to ensure the sustainable development of the tourist sector itself.”

But enough of all that serious stuff… IT’S THE HOLIDAYS! 

Venturing into unexplored corners of Queen Elizabeth National Park – Kyambura Game Reserve

This cheeky photo was taken on a walking safari on the northern bank of the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park, accompanied by a Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger. Safari courtesy of Honey Bear Camp (the River Station Bush Camp), Wildplaces Africa’s new luxury concession (in Kyambura Game Reserve, a boat ride away).

“Communing with my inner warthog” photo and caption by Philip Briggs Bradt Guides author and SafariBookings writer.

Revisiting Queen Elizabeth National Park – the Kazinga Channel

HO HO HO. My view from the MV Kazinga boat cruise in Queen Elizabeth National Park. The Kazinga Channel ‘water safari’ in the heart of QE is one of the country’s best wildlife experiences. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve done it. Kazinga Channel is a mecca for birdlovers. Photo taken November 2023.

Did you hear that travelers and Africa travel experts voted Uganda “Africa’s best safari country?”

In 2023, 1000s of travelers and SafariBookings experts voted Uganda “Africa’s best safari country” and “Africa’s best birding safari country.” (No surprise at all, really!)

GOT A QUESTION?
If you’re looking for travel recommendations, email me or text via WhatsApp.  I’m also active on LinkedIn, Instagram and Facebook so let’s hang out there too!

NEW TO DIARY OF A MUZUNGU? … Start your journey here.

Thanks for being a part of my 2023. Happy Christmas everyone! 

With love from Charlotte Beauvoisin AKA Nagawa Diary of a Muzungu

The post May your Christmas be WILD with elephants and warthogs! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Although best known for its group of 1500 raucous chimpanzees, Kibale Forest’s chimps even have their NetFlix series. The whole Toro region has a mesmerizing landscape: mile after mile of rolling green hills, crater lakes and the essence of rural Ugandan life.

Built by hand, Kibale Lodge is thoughtfully designed to harmonize with the rocky outcrop that dominates the 150-acre site. The new luxury lodge will feature eight deluxe rooms, a villa, swimming pool, sauna and spa. I can’t wait to see the final result! The main lodge building will overlook Lake Lugembe in the lodge grounds, with sweeping views of the Rwenzori Mountains, famously known as the “Mountains of the Moon,” and a glimpse of Queen Elizabeth and the Kazinga Channel to the south.

This clip makes me fall in love with Kibale Forest all over again!

Like other Volcanoes Safaris properties, Kibale Lodge has been a long time in the making. Although we had wanted a lodge there for many years, there were no attractive large sites available. So five years ago we started assembling this site, centred on the breathtaking ridge above Lake Lugembe. Finally it has come together.

We have been assessing the topography, light, and weather patterns. The design and build style will ensure the lodge remains consistent with our ecological principles as well as retaining our Afro-chic ethos. The lodge will fit into the landscape in a seamless way, as if it always existed and just grew out of the earth.

Our style of building boutique lodges develops informally and in a fluid way. We like to bring out the natural essence of buildings.

Praveen Moman, the visionary founder of Volcanoes Safaris and a seasoned figure in Ugandan and Rwandan tourism

Kibale Lodge is the natural addition to Volcanoes Safaris’ existing circuit of four “great ape lodges,” these being: Bwindi Lodge, Mount Gahinga Lodge and Kyambura Gorge Lodge in Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. In 2023 alone, Volcanoes Safaris have won a series of awards including Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards, Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards and Marie Claire Sustainability Awards.

Vision

Volcanoes Safaris not only provides high levels of services (think: complimentary massages and personal butlers) in awe-inspiring locations but also distinguishes itself through unwavering dedication to great ape conservation and long-term investment in the local community.

We believe that the conservation of species such as the mountain gorilla has to be part of the economic mainstream to succeed; sensitive and controlled tourism has an essential role to play in conservation; and most of all, if an endangered species is to survive, the focus of conservation and tourism must be on communities getting tangible long-term benefits.

Praveen Moman

In Kibale Forest, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust will collaborate with the Jane Goodall Institute Uganda. This is modelled on the successful community-based conservation projects that have been running at Kyambura Gorge Lodge for over a decade.

Drive times to Kibale Lodge

• An hour from Fort Portal.
• An hour from the airstrip at Kasese, ideal for daily flights to and from Entebbe, and the other Volcanoes Safaris lodges.
• 30 minutes to the starting point for chimp tracking at Kanyanchu in Kibale Forest, one of Africa’s best parks for viewing chimpanzees. Read Diary of a Muzungu’s firsthand account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest in “Pant hoots and knuckle spins.”

Opening offer in 2024

Looking ahead, Kibale Lodge’s first three deluxe bandas will be ready for guests by May 2024; an additional five bandas will be unveiled by the year’s end. To celebrate this milestone, Volcanoes Safaris are offering a special opening promotion. Guests can combine their Kibale Lodge experience with gorilla trekking at Bwindi or Mount Gahinga Lodge and enjoy five nights for the price of four.

For more details, contact Volcanoes Safaris directly enquiries@volcanoessafaris.com – and do mention Diary of a Muzungu sent you

*Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill, a few minutes drive from Kibale National Park.

The post Kibale Forest welcomes Volcanoes Safaris! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Join me in registering for this year’s calendar of sporting events taking place at the fabulous Kyaninga Lodge near Fort Portal. I love these professionally organised annual events! Full booking info, prices and contact details are on the Kyaninga Sporting Events website.

Where do the annual Kyaninga sporting events take place?

These events are centred in and around Kyaninga Lodge, just 15 minutes’ drive from Fort Portal. The lodge provides one of the most spectacular, and challenging, backdrops for a sporting event that any athlete – serious or recreational (like me) – could wish for. Read my blog, Kyaninga Lodge – the dancing, running (and relaxing!) lodge.

Who profits from the Kyaninga sporting events?

All proceeds go to the excellent Kyaninga Child Development Centre. KCDC provides much needed therapy services for children with disabilities in the region, the majority of whom are from disadvantaged families and would otherwise go untreated. I’ve seen how their work can transform a disabled child’s family for the better.

One year we all took part in Running the Rift. Innocent and Emmanuel steamed into 4th and 5th places in the 21 km (while some of us walked the 5 km!) Assumptah carried baby Stella the whole 5 km. Way to go, team!

Ride the Rift bike races Kyaninga Lodge – Date to be confirmed

Choose from the 65 km descent bike race or the 95 km “Beast Route!”

Take in Lake Albert, cycle through the Semuliki Wildlife Reserve, and then up and down the foothills of the majestic Rwenzori Mountains. Choose the challenge of cycling the ‘up’ course, climbing from the lowest point in Uganda, 615 metres, up over a vertical kilometre, to finish at 1685 metres. On the ‘down’ course, cycle into the valley and watch it open up in front of you. For the ultimate adventure, choose the Beast Route – a total of 95 km.

The date of the 2024 event is to be confirmed later in the year.

Ride the Rift bike race, Kyaninga Lodge near Fort Portal

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Ride the Rift bike race for Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

Ride the Rift bike race for Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

Ride the Rift bike race for Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

Ride the Rift bike race for Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

Ride the Rift bike race for Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

Ride the Rift bike race for Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

How much does it cost to Ride the Rift in 2024?

• Pre-registration is required for all events.
• Entry fee $45 includes event registration, prize-giving ceremony and evening entertainment. For Ugandans, the fee is 165k ugx.
• There is also a special prize for the top Ugandan finisher in each category (male / female, 65km / 95km race).
• TO REGISTER: MomoPay 613517 events@kyaningacdc.org or +256 778277248.
• Bike hire options are available.
• All races start and finish at Kyaninga Lodge with afternoon prizegiving and evening entertainment in the events hall. These events are always a great day out, even if you’re just an observer (but do buy lunch and some raffle tickets; it’s a fundraiser after all!)
• Bus transfer $15 (optional bus transport for bike and rider from Lake Albert back to Kyaninga Lodge). Local lunch is available at Lake Albert finish line (at additional cost).

Kyaninga Triathlon and Duathlon, Kyaninga Lodge – Saturday May 18th 2024

Kyaninga Triathlon, Fort Portal - previous events

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Kyaninga Triathlon, marathon, run the rift events Uganda

Kyaninga Triathlon, marathon, run the rift events Uganda

Kyaninga Triathlon, marathon, run the rift events Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

Triathlon. Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre, Fort Portal Uganda

The Kyaninga (42km) Marathon is a big day in the local and international running calendar. Beginners run alongside Olympians, locals run alongside visitors from around the world and everyone runs the most stunning race route imaginable. You will run high up on the Rift Valley Escarpment, looking out “as the Rwenzori Mountains melt into the East African plain.” The races are followed by a big after-party and BBQ.

How much does it cost to Run the Rift?

“Race-only entry” is available to Ugandan residents. Pre-registration required.

• 42 km $45 or 165k UGX
• 21 km $45 or 165k UGX
• 10 km $40 or 150k UGX
• 5 km $30 or 110 k UGX
• Event fee includes registration, prize-giving ceremony and evening entertainment. Half price for kids under 12.

Choose from Triathlon, Duathlon or Fun Run.

For the ultimate challenge, or team event, sign up for the popular Kyaninga Triathlon. Swim, cycle and run, solo or in a team relay. Choose the long course or the medium course. Explore the lake and forest of Kyaninga then join your team mates and competitors for another after party to remember. Lake Kyaninga is completely safe to swim in.

What’s the difference between the triathlon, duathlon and fun run?

Triathlon. Medium course – 750 m swim, 17 km cycle, 5 km run
Triathlon. Long course – 1500 m swim, 34 km cycle, 10 km run
Duathlon. 5 km run, 17 km cycle, 5 km run
Fun run. 5 km run or walk

Each team should have two or three competitors: in a two-person team, one member will complete two disciplines. For a three-person team, each member will complete one discipline.

How much does it cost to take part in the Kyaninga Triathlon?

Full packages that include accommodation at Kyaninga Lodge and a week full of safari activities are available for international visitors.

“Race-only entry” is available to Ugandan residents. Pre-registration required.

Triathlon and duathlon. Individual entry $45 or 165k UGX. Team entry $80 or 295k UGX
Fun run. Individual entry $30 or 110k UGX. Kids under 12 $15 or 55k UGX.

To register for any of these events, please contact the event organisers directly. Email events@kyaningacdc.org or call 0778 277248 for details on how to pay. Hope to see you at one of the events – and best of luck!

The post Run or Ride the Rift? Sign up for Kyaninga’s 2024 events now! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Trying new foods is such an integral part of the travel experience.

As well as the regular packets of biscuits and bottles of sodas and water, the small bus park in Musanze (stop off point for tracking the gorillas in Rwanda) has an interesting selection of snacks for the traveller.

Rwanda seems remarkably free from the heavy, starchy snacks like chapatti, mandazi and ‘defenders’ (‘defender from hunger’ cakes), and even sambosas (samosas) that we have everywhere in Uganda.

In Rwanda, you might break up your bus journey by munching on:

• Hard-boiled eggs, served with hot akabanga chilli oil of course!
• Fresh groundnuts in their shells
• Cape gooseberries – in a plastic bag! – in Rwanda?
• Strings of bright orange tangerines
• Igikwanga (chewy snack made of cassava flour) pictured above. On its own igikwanga has little taste. Eat it with groundnuts and it’s rather interesting.
• Strings of sweet tree tomatoes (it’s rare to see these in Uganda)

Here are a few favourite Rwandan foods

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lady eating in bus. Nyirangarama Rwandan snack foods

Nyirangarama Rwandan snack potato. Diary of a Muzungu

Nyirangarama Rwandan snack potatoes. Diary of a Muzungu

Nyirangarama Rwandan chips foods. Diary of a Muzungu

Nyirangarama sign. Rwandan snack foods. Diary of a Muzungu

Packed lunch. Kigali Serena Hotel. VisitRwanda

Packed lunch. Kigali Serena Hotel. VisitRwanda

Kinty Rwandese tea. Kwita Izina 2018. Kigali Serena Hotel

Kinty Rwandese tea. Kwita Izina 2018. Kigali Serena Hotel. VisitRwanda travel

Gishwati cheese. Rwandese food. Diary of a Muzungu

Gishwati cheese. Rwandese food. VisitRwanda

Solomon Oleny tries local wine. Red Rocks, Musanze, Rwanda

`Solomon Oleny tries local wine. Red Rocks, Musanze, Rwanda

Diary of a Muzungu drinks iyiwacu wine. Red Rocks, Musanze, Rwanda

Diary of a Muzungu drinks iyiwacu wine. Red Rocks, Musanze, Rwanda

Nyirangarama strawberry jam. Made in Rwanda

Nyirangarama strawberry jam. Made in Rwanda

Akagera National Park Rwanda. buffer zone honey

Akagera National Park Rwanda. buffer zone honey

Rwanda street food. bus trip

Rwanda street food. bus trip. This photo was taken in Musanze bus park

Rwanda street food. bus trip

Rwanda street food. bus trip

I really enjoy Rwandan food and have been known to bring a few titbits back with me to Uganda. Some of the favourite items I’ve found so far are:

• Nyirangarama strawberry jam. I love strawberries and they are rare to find in Uganda. This strawberry jam is made in Rwanda. It’s delectable and full of fruit.
• Gishwati cheese. This mild flavoured Gouda-type cheese is very moorish and can withstand a two-day journey back to my village in western Uganda! It’s better priced than any such quality cheese in Uganda. Did you know Gishwati – Mukura is Rwanda’s newest National Park?
• At Red Rocks Initiatives in Musanze, I tasted potato wine and banana beer. My friend David loved the banana beer so much, he wrote a whole story about it.
• Rwanda is known for its good quality tea and coffee. Tourists that track the gorillas are given smart-looking presentation boxes of tea or coffee as a memento of their experience.
• Akagera ‘buffer honey’ is harvested from beehives near the boundary of Akagera National Park.
• Nyirangarama must be Rwanda’s most popular stopover – and the BEST place I’ve found in East Africa for enjoying baked (Irish) potatoes! I’m drooling just remembering them. They are big, cheap and always ready. They also sell chips. The shop next door sells whole Gishwati cheese, akabanga chilli oil, fresh bread, mandazi (donuts), strawberry yoghurt, Uganda Waragi, takeaway buffet and other snacks. (There’s a free – clean – toilet nearby too).
• If you’re staying at a tourist hotel, you can often get a packed lunch to take on your journey. The lunch box provided by the Kigali Serena Hotel is one of the smartest I’ve seen. I particularly like the local products.
• However, by far my favourite takeaway on my last trip to Rwanda was this fantastic sambaza (fish) and matooke chips lunch! Thank you and murakoze to Bethany Hotel on Lake Kivu for this filling and tasty lunch.

These are some of my favourite Rwandan snacks and foods – and I haven’t even mentioned brochettes and the excellent beers!

Trying local food is such an important part of my travels and so is taking public transport, but beware the ‘helpful porter’ at Musanze who grabs hold of your bag as you exit the bus and demands 500 Rwanda francs to haul it 100 metres!

“No way!” I told him. “I dragged my heavy bag for 20 minutes and no-one paid me!” I joked indignantly in a language he did not understand. I pulled a face and the price dropped to 100 RWF – for a service I didn’t really need.

Which are your favourite East African foods? If you are in Uganda, it may be the rolex! Mombasa street food is a favourite of mine too.

The post How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks I bet you haven’t tried appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Waiting for my boda at the Kiko turn-off, I watched three cows amble towards the busy main road. A young man threw a stone at one. It turned in the other direction. He picked up a branch and ran towards them. It was a comical sight to watch him sprinting after the cows, his white gumboots flashing as he lifted one leg after the other! After hundred metres, the cows now safely away from the main road, he turned to walk back to the laughing boda drivers.

A third boda boda pulled up with three individuals on it, one of them being a tightly trussed-up pig! My heart went out to this poor little piggy yet I admired the deft way the animal was attached to the boda. (It’s amazing what you can do with a bit of string if you put your mind to it!)

I had not wanted to travel far from my home on the edge of Kibale Forest, but work commitments beckoned. I felt I put life on hold by leaving so soon… and how long am I back here for this time?

Back home, as the kids unpacked sacks of beans and posho from the vehicle, Hope said “Auntie Charlotte, I have a surprise for you” as she passed me a refrigerated plastic container. I removed the lid, intrigued. Was it edible?

MAWAY!

“I assume it’s dead… ?”

Whenever we find reptilian roadkill, we slam on the brakes and pick up the remains. Our freezer is full of snakes (and beetles)!

Do you like my stories? Tell me what you think!

The post Pig on a boda appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know that I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest, western Uganda, famous for its population of several hundred – often vocal – chimpanzees. (Did you know I can lie in bed hearing the chimps call?)

Netflix’ latest release is Chimp Empire, set in Ngogo, a section of Kibale National Park that is dedicated to research and monitoring of our great ape cousins. The trailer is thrilling! PANT HOOTS and congratulations to everyone involved in this phenomenal Netflix production. Chimp Empire charts two years in the lives of dozens of Kibale Forest’s chimps. (I doubt any Hollywood blockbuster can contain more drama than the real lives of our Closest Cousins!)

Known as “our closest relative” humans and chimpanzees share almost the same DNA. Our similarities are evidenced in chimps’ complex relationships, emotions, differing personalities, advanced forms of communication, the ability to use tools, and so much more. They are beautiful, beguiling and hilarious too!

I never fail to get excited when we hear chimpanzees. Watch the trailer and you’ll understand why! These creatures are fascinating in their own right, but their close link to us makes their appeal even more compelling. Chimp tracking is one of the big draws to Uganda. Kibale National Park isn’t the only protected area where you can view chimps, but it is the best known.

“Chimp Empire: Survival is in Our Nature” is a four-part docume;ntary series that was released on April 19 2023. The series was directed by two Academy Award® winners: James Reed, Co-Director of My Octopus Teacher (an unusual and moving film set off the coast of South Africa) and narrated by Winner Mahershala Ali.

What’s it like to track chimps in the wild? Read my personal account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest or contact one of the tour operators in my Travel Directory.

Ngogo is just a few km from my home at Sunbird Hill.

The post Chimp Empire – Kibale’s chimpanzees star on Netflix! appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

I’m back in Kibale Forest after a busy fortnight in Kampala. It was fun to be back in the training room, sharing digital marketing tips with some of the tour operators, lodges and activities that feature in our Travel Directory. My experience co-developing a training curriculum for tour operators (with colleagues from Uganda, South Africa and the Netherlands) has proved very inspiring

At the same time, we’ve been busy putting the final touches on a brand-new version of Diary of a Muzungu – now live!

Fun fun fun! We took the photo at the top of this page while Bryan Kisembo and I were recording the first podcast episodes here on the edge of Kibale National Park.

I’m thrilled that one of my first podcast interviewees is the British TV sports commentator Rob Walker. I caught up with Rob when he revisited Uganda as a guest of the Uganda Tourism Board. In his interview, he tells us all about his amazing trip: tracking the gorillas in Bwindi, meeting up with his buddy Joshua Cheptegai (and sinking a few Nile Specials!)

During the last Olympics, Rob’s spontaneous live commentary touched the hearts of a nation after Ugandan athlete Joshua Cheptegei won a Gold medal.

And what unadulterated joy this win will have triggered back home in Uganda – one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries you could ever wish to visit!

Rob Walker

If Diary of a Muzungu has been quiet recently, know that we have bigger and better things planned for you!

The podcast launches soon soon. Register for notification when the podcast goes live.

The post Eek! from the forest + podcast loading appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Before 2023 swallows me in a frenzy of work, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the 365 days in which I continued to piece my life back together as the world reopened for tourism. Just as we were getting up to speed post-pandemic (with summer bookings almost as busy as 2019) Uganda tourism was dealt a blow by the recurrence of Ebola. Would you believe it, we groaned collectively. Tour operators had only just resumed “real work” after two years of farming goats and washing cars; but anyway THANKFULLY the Ebola outbreak has officially been declared over, so let me say no more.

If 2020 was a write-off, and we “woke up” mid-2021, I’ll sum up 2022 as the year I said a resounding yes to everything. (And if 2021 was the year of the big resignation, surely 2022 must have been the year of the big burnout!) In 2022, I was so busy looking for new opportunities and answering travel queries that there was little time for creative writing on my beloved blog. Don’t worry dear reader – or listener? – in 2023, I promise to inspire you once more! This year’s project is a podcast, launching soon… but first…

Fodor’s Travel’s Complete Guide to the African Safari

One of 2022’s highlights was updating the Uganda and Rwanda chapters of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Fodor’s have been writing guidebooks for over 80 years.

If you’re researching a destination listed in this blog post, know that I have visited them personally in 2022. This means that you can read about them in the Fodor’s Guide or send me an enquiry. This post is a compilation of 2022’s social media updates. Stand-out moments – which made the long drives, Bwindi’s terrible roads, and the endless proof-reading of the guidebook worth it! – include:

UGANDA travel highlights

• Listening to hyenas howling as I stretched out in bed at the glorious Ishasha Wilderness Camp, southern Queen Elizabeth National Park.
• Adding five ‘lifers’ to my bird list in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park during my stay at Mount Gahinga Lodge.
• Celebrating the tenth anniversary of Rwakobo Rock Lodge in Lake Mburo.
• Ferry rides and kayaking in search of otters on the very cool Banda Island, Kalangala (Ssese Islands).
• Dinner at the Bungee Bar overlooking the River Nile at Jinja.
• The Uganda Railway Museum at Jinja railway station.
• Driving across the Nile’s ferocious white waters at Karuma Falls en route to Pakwach and West Nile.
• Being one of the judges of the Miss Rwenzori Tourism Final in Kasese.
• Flying over Lake Victoria and Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes with Aerolink.
• Driving every rocky road around Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from Nkuringo to Rushaga, Ruhija and Buhoma.
• Visiting every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park.
• Buying straw hats in Mbarara!
• Taking a tour of Emburura Farm Lodge.

What an amazing welcome we had from the Batwa community of Mgahinga. Interaction with this ancient forest tribe are always memorable. I asked to have my photo taken with Stephen, one of the elders. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village! What a giggle. I was in Mgahinga near Kisoro to write about Volcanoes Safaris’ Retreat “Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes conservation challenges 2022 to 2050.”

Prince Wasajja of Buganda Kingdom completed the 21km run at the Rwenzori Marathon in western Uganda. Kasese town was painted green and the streets were lined with curious bystanders who couldn’t believe their town had become the talk of the country for a weekend. For many Kampala friends, this was their first visit. That shows you the power of sporting events in putting a destination on the map. 2023 is set to be even bigger for Kasese!

I was curious to see the new tarmac road that bisects Murchison Falls National Park (still under construction in some areas). I hate that Uganda is drilling for oil in a Protected Area but the drive to the Top of the Falls is certainly easier than before. We all gasped when we were hit by spray from the river! (Thankfully the cameras and phones survived). We passed through Murchison on our way back from Arua in West Nile.

Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron is one of my favourite stories from Murchison.

There is so much to write about West Nile:

• firstly the BIG smiles
• diverse cultures of tribes that are local to the region
• a list of invitations to numerous waterfalls
• mountain hikes
• hot springs
• Emin Pasha’s Fort
• Congolese music
• smoked Angala fish
• Amin’s Trail
• Colourful kitenge material sold by South Sudanese ladies at the Friday market

The people of Arua loved my 10 little-known things to do in Arua written after an earlier visit.

What are we without culture?

Mungu and I spent an enthralling hour with Tutu, Director of the Madi Lugbara Community Museum in Arua, West Nile, northwestern Uganda. I loved the museum’s simplicity. Moreover, the items displayed aren’t dusty items that sit forgotten on a shelf. “Go to the villages in West Nile” says John “and you will see all these items in daily use.”

Protecting traditional culture starts by listening to our elders’ stories, learning the lessons captured by song, engaging with passionate people like Tutu. He brought everything in the museum to life with his insightful, frequently funny, stories. The Madi Lugbara Community Museum is in Arua town. It’s one of many community museums across Uganda. They are mostly run by volunteers and all need our support.

One of the great things about writing a blog is meeting all kinds of interesting people [do say hi!] While I was checking out hotels and restaurants in Kampala for Fodor’s Travel, tour guide Joan came to say hello. She’s a ‘Top Fan’ of my Facebook page so it was wonderful to meet in person. The staff at the 5- star Kampala Serena Hotel are always smart, courteous and friendly. It’s a real privilege to stay there.

On a half-day “boda boda tour” of 7 crater lakes, we stopped at a tea plantation on the edge of Kibale Forest. I was over the moon when one of the tea-pickers handed me the “jerrycan shears” and gave me a chance to pick my own tea! Tea + Ugandan jerrycan invention = pure joy for a Brit like me (a big tea drinker).

Cool way to spend the weekend alert! If you’re looking for a bit of an adventure without traveling far from Kampala, I recommend this half day tour: I jumped in a wooden boat at Ggaba for a 20km bike ride along the marram dirt roads of Mukono. I came back feeling super relaxed… (and dusty and sweaty!) If you have your own bike, you can join Sunday bike rides around Kampala at zero cost. Contact the Muzungu for more info.

RWANDA travel highlights

Stand-out moments included:

• Being back in Rwanda after three long years!
• Eating sambaza fish while listening to Congolese music in Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – a few snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
• Chatting conservation with Rwanda Development Board at Gishwati Mukura National Park, Rwanda’s newest protected area.
• Sipping tea and nibbling homemade biscuits on the terrace at Virunga Lodge, overlooking the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo.
• Gawping in awe at the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, close to the start of the gorilla tracking.
• Having The Best Massage Of My Life at the five-star Maisha Spa at Kigali Serena Hotel.
• Drinking tea on the balcony of Virunga Lodge overlooking Lake Burera.
• Reconnecting with Greg Bakunzi of Red Rocks. Their cool campsite in Musanze is a centre for adventure, art and cultural learning. The community benefit directly from t heourists.
• Hearing stories about Dian Fossey from Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel, where Fossey used to stay.

In May 2022, I saw for myself how easy it is to enter Rwanda at the snazzy new Gatuna “one stop shop” border post.

After years of cross-border bus trips, it was interesting to cross the border in a tourist vehicle. First my guide Rashid had to buy COMESA insurance; at the border he had to ‘clear’ the vehicle with the Uganda Revenue Authority and Immigration. Here we were both issued with an Interstate Pass (part of the East Africa Tourist Visa which all EAC citizens and residents are eligible for). Lastly, our bags were scanned and searched – don’t accidentally carry a cavera (plastic bag) into Rwanda!

In Kigali, Rwanda, we caught up with Dr Andrew G. Seguya who heads the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration (and was the longest serving ED at Uganda Wildlife Authority). GVTC is best known for protecting the mountain gorillas that range between Rwanda, Uganda and the DR Congo. Have you heard of the pledge to protect gorillas? Gorilla tracking tourists are encouraged to commit to protecting the gorillas from human diseases by signing the www.gorillafriendly.org pledge.

Have you visited Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu?

This chilled-out small town borders the DRC town of Goma and is great for a long weekend. The buffet breakfast at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel is to die for! Their new gym opened in time for CHOGM in 2022 and the hotel has added mountain bike hire and birdwatching to their list of activities.

Have you heard of Gishwati-Mukura National Park?

Rwanda’s conservation and tourism visions are bold and inspiring. The new national park, created in 2016, is in fact two (severely degraded) forest fragments. An ambitious plan is in place to develop tourism activities (hiking, birdwatching, chimpanzee tracking and cultural experiences). A tree planting programme is visibly helping prevent soil erosion, protect rivers, improve biodiversity and – crucially – provide firewood for local communities. I’ve been following Gishwati-Mukura’s evolution closely since writing a blog for Albertine Rift Conservation Society in 2019.

Fancy sleeping in Dian Fossey’s room?

Gaudence’s family knew pioneer gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey well and shared some interesting stories about Fossey’s stays there. Did you know you can stay in the very room where Fossey slept? (For a premium price). You can guess where the muzungu wanted to sleep! (Unfortunately I arrived when the room was being renovated).

KENYA travel highlights

Nairobi’s matatus are legendary! Each one is a work of art.

Work it baby (More reasons to celebrate 2022)

Thank you to everyone who voted for me in the Top 100 Women in Travel and Tourism in Africa. I felt honoured to be nominated and bowled over to come at no. 2 in the online vote!

Training assignments led me across East Africa: digital marketing training in Jinja, Kampala, Fort Portal and West Nile; a community-based tourism webinar from Sunbird Hill for the East Africa Tourism Platform. Other work highlights included being speaking live to readers of the U.K.’s Wanderlust Magazine; a digital marketing presentation at Uganda’s inaugural Adventure Tourism Expo; On Uganda podcast interview; judging Uganda’s annual Travel Writing Competition. The year ended on a high with an invitation to Nairobi to co-lead a day discussing responsible tourism (one of my favourite subjects) with Kenyan content creators, Ecotourism Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board. (Thank you Barbara!)

Did 2022’s travels make up for lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest?

That time was enchanting in many ways and I remain grateful every day (as my #LockdownDiaries attest) but I took the isolation hard. I confess: 2022’s carbon footprint was off the scale and this year I am committed to offsetting my travels. I’m also committed to launching a podcast, a project inspired by being locked down with nature. More on that very soon!

Lastly, you’re always welcome to contact me for travel recommendations or check out my Travel Directory.

The post The year of saying YES appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.

In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.

In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.

You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.

Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:

If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:

• Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
• Always take extra memory cards.
• Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
• Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
• Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
• It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
• Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
• Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.

Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).

Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.

Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.

For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

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