I regularly receive questions about moving to work in Uganda and about expat life in Kampala. There are so many great things to say about Uganda but visiting for a couple of weeks isn’t the same as living here. If you’re travelling to the country on safari, or to track the gorillas, you may bypass the capital city entirely, but I love Kampala! It may be intense but the buzz can be addictive.

Below is a typical question I received via WhatsApp recently, in response to my popular post “Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats.” My posts have hundreds of questions from readers – and I reply to them all – however, I thought it would be useful to share answers to this common question. Names have been withheld but all comments are genuine.

“I am moving to Kampala in a few months with my wife and our 3 year old daughter. Of course the worst thing you can do is Google ‘is Uganda safe?’ Lots of words like terrorism and don’t travel. Can you give any info or advice on safety for a young family. I have been to Angola and Uganda for short periods by myself and must admit I felt very comfortable in Kampala. Are the current precautions in place by other governments just that or are there real issues ongoing? Thank you in advance.”

I have my own views and experiences (since moving here in 2009) but was interested in what the expat community would advise. Here are some of their comments.

Is Uganda safe? Uganda is very safe in my opinion. Crowded areas are – as everywhere in the world – places where you’ve to pay more attention but Ugandans are very homely and friendly. For me the most dangerous thing is the road in the sense of accidents.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree. Traffic and road safety are likely to be the biggest daily concern.

Crowded places are safer than empty streets in terms of violent crime, though you might get your pockets picked 

Kampala Expat

One expat added “I wouldn’t recommend that women walk alone at night.”

In my humble opinion the biggest threats are the night clubs and overnight church services… and traffic. Other than that, it’s a great place to live and there is plenty for kids to do. The key in Kampala at least is to live close to work and school.

Kampala Expat

Is Uganda safe? Yes, road safety and electronic-device-thefts are the two primary concerns. Terrorism is no more a threat here than in the countries which issue the warnings – indeed is probably even less of a concern here – but is a possibility anywhere in the world, sadly. I feel like my children are safe from threat of kidnapping and such. Now the trash burning and air quality in Kampala are pretty bad. If they have any lung issues (allergies, asthma, etc.) that’s something to consider. I’m personally having health issues because of it.

Kampala Expat

Another person agreed that “The overall air quality in Kampala is bad. Wish someone had told me so I could have made a decision about it beforehand.”

I find Uganda massively child friendly having moved here from London 2 years ago. We were here for the bombs which were scary but didn’t feel like they directly targeted us. You can be in the wrong place at the wrong time but more of that kind of thing has happened in my home city than here so I guess it depends where you are coming from. My main concerns here for the kids are them getting seriously sick (not happened as yet), traffic accidents outside of Kampala as traffic is slow moving in the city so unlikely to hurt a child in a car.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree the bombings were very scary but I worked in London when we had bombs on the buses and Tube… It’s a reminder that terrorism can strike anywhere…

A mother agreed that “My kids have a much more carefree existence here in Uganda than in London.”

Thanks to all of you for the unbiased review of Uganda. Life in Uganda can be quite addictive. Once in you may find it hard to leave.

Kampala Expat

“Best practice is to forward government travel advisories straight to the bin”

Is Uganda safe? I personally stopped reading the travel advise as it makes you scared for no reason. I feel the general travel advise given by western governments about developing countries is based on the 60’s and 70’s and not much has been updated. So i generally tell people to give Uganda a trial period of 3 months as you can either love it or hate or be in the middle as the advises based on individual persons are so biased and not a representation of the local populace and country or counties. above all they should see Uganda with the local lenses.

Kampala Expat

“Uganda is a beautiful country full of really nice and friendly people. Come and have a very enjoyable life experience. Most of the above comments are correct and good advice.”

We have just arrived in Kampala 3 weeks ago. We are still finding our way around, but we generally feel safe, my biggest issue is the traffic and crazy driving and the vendors at traffic lights. Bring a car seat. Also visit the house you want to rent at night… nightclubs are 7 days a week and no mercy on the volume. Lol. We are moving already 臘‍. But it’s not a bad place, delicious fresh fruits and vegetables from the markets, people are very friendly too. I had the same concerns coming here with my kids (3 & 7).

Kampala Expat

Is Uganda safe? The most beautiful & the most crazy. We live in a pollution-free part of Kampala, no humidifiers necessary or air cleaners & I love it so much I haven’t been back to England since I’ve left. Cost of living is amazing & the ability to grow a business & also retire at the same time is amazing. Opportunities here are in abundance & just like anywhere in the world just have to focus on your child’s habit of learning outside of the education curriculum. I wish to be able to fall in love with this city all over again outside of when initially did when I first arrived 

Kampala Expat

“Is Uganda safe? Kampala is relatively safe for a city of its size and nature. It has some rough edges, but I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous except for the roads.”

The muzungu: government travel advisories are always very cautious, since if anything goes wrong, your government will have a responsibility to protect you. Sometimes, I can’t recognise the country advisories are writing about! And they are always skewed against developing countries. It is always best to check with local people if you have any doubts about the security of a destination.

The muzungu writes one last thought: Uganda has a thriving expat community of many different nationalities. You will find plenty of support for you and your family. If you’re a tourist, rest assured no-one is going to advise you to come to Uganda and put you at any known risk. Keep asking questions, listen to – and take heed of – local advice and you will have a fantastic experience!

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here

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DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.

Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.

Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you

Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel

Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel

Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel

Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala

Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.

Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022

Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala

The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.

Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala

Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala

Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!

Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala

Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.

Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you

For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you

The post Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

In this week’s guest post, Flavia and Mark share some insights with Diary of a Muzungu readers:

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to leave Uganda permanently, after having lived in the country for a long, or maybe, a short time?

Or are you planning ahead of your uproot from your home country to Uganda? If so, this read was curated for you too. In a few paragraphs – and presumably delicate scrolls – you will get up to speed with the legal and financial aspects involved in leaving Uganda permanently.

In a similar situation as yours, many expats leave Uganda to look for a new adventure, employment in a foreign country, or to simply return to their country of origin. However, many people wonder “What does it take to start the process of leaving the country indefinitely?”

‘Do I just pack my bags and head for the airport? Or are there procedures to be followed?’

Permanently leaving Uganda, whether you’re an expat, employee, or businessperson, must be easy, wouldn’t you think? Here are some insights on a few things you may need to work through before packing up.

If you stick around long enough, you will learn a lot; how to deal with your departure process when it comes to work or business engagements, tax implications and even, how to handle your landlord or effectively dispose of property.

Planning on how to leave your current employer on good terms

All contracts of employment in Uganda are governed by the country’s Employment laws.

So, what exactly does this mean?

If you are an independent contractor, you will be required to complete any pending engagements to the satisfaction of your clients before leaving the country.

However if you are engaged under an employment contract, you will be required to formally end your employment before your departure. This can be triggered through resignation with prior notice. There are no fast and hard rules about resigning but it’s important to do it professionally and graciously. At this point, you might ask:

‘What happens to the money I have saved up with the National Social Security Fund(“NSSF”)?’

As a member of NSSF, your employer is required to remit 15% of your monthly income as savings. The 15% is a shared responsibility between you and your employer, where 5% is deducted from your monthly salary while your employer remits 10% of your gross monthly salary to NSSF. Once you decide to permanently leave Uganda, you are entitled to the payment of your remitted savings for at least four financial years. The claim for your savings is made online on the NSSF portal, or your nearest NSSF office. To support your claim, the following documents are necessary:

• Current passport size photo.
• Copy of your passport with a valid work permit.
• Proof of your bank details. The bank account must be held in the country you are heading to.
• Resignation letter, termination letter, or any document showing severance of the prior employment relationship in Uganda.
• Evidence of permanent residence status or citizenship in the Country you are moving to.
• Evidence of exit from Uganda e.g. exit stamp from Uganda and/or entry stamp to destination country.
• Notarized Passport and/or permanent residence card (if claiming online).

Expats running businesses

“Alright, but I run a business in Uganda, and before I leave I would like to  dissolve my partnership, transfer stakes, or dissolve my company?” This shouldn’t be strenuous, right?

Getting out of a partnership

For starters, a partnership venture may not take so much time to dissolve since you may have a partnership deed that indicates the terms of dissolution. However, in case you have no such clause in the deed, the partnership can be dissolved by an agreement between you and your partner(s). 

Leaving a company as a shareholder

Upon reaching the decision to leave Uganda permanently, and you desire to sell your shareholding, in order to have a smooth process you should consider doing the following;

• Engaging with other shareholders in order to reach a consensus on any outstanding obligations and also to set up a road map for your exit from the company.
• Conducting a financial audit.
• Valuing your shareholding to arrive at a fair market value at which you can sell your  shares.

At this point, a common question comes to mind:
“What if I fail to find buyers for my shareholding?”

An alternative to selling your stake would be to dissolve the company altogether. However, we hate to say this but, the process of shareholders dissolving a company, is slightly longer than that of transferring shares or that of dissolving a partnership.

Engaging the Taxman

When you are no longer generating income in Uganda owing to your pending departure, you may consider applying to the Commissioner General of the Uganda Revenue Authority (URA) to deregister your Tax Identification Number (TIN).

Dealing with a Landlord

Just like any other relationship, landlord – tenant relationships are different for everyone. However, the relationship between the two is usually governed by the Tenancy Agreement. Termination of this contract, to some, may mean the beginning of exit obligations, for example, restoring the premises.

Disposal of assets

When most of the processes are over and you are drawing closer to the departure day, if you still possess property, you are at liberty to dispose of them before leaving Uganda.

Now let’s talk about safety for you and your loved ones

COVID-19

At the time of writing, it is mandatory to present a negative COVID-19 test taken within 72 hours of your departure from Uganda. Tests can be done from any accredited laboratory. Before you travel read Latest COVID-19 health measures at Entebbe International Airport, which is updated regularly.

Travelling with Pets

If you plan on travelling with your pet, or “fur buddy,” here is a roundup of what you may need to do to avoid inconveniences.

The first thing to do is contact the airline you are planning to fly with for full information.

Depending on the country you are travelling to, you may need a microchip for the pet, rabies vaccination, and a health certificate. Additional blood tests may also be required.

Finally you will need to register your pet with the airline, make payment and ensure that they are placed in a cage or kennel for the duration of the flight.

Lastly, the process of leaving Uganda can be quite unsettling especially if you are a business owner or have spent a considerable amount of time in the country.

However, with an exit process plan, coupled with professional advice, you can be able to seamlessly overcome the numerous obstacles that may lie ahead, and be packing within no time.

The guest writers are Kampala-based multi-disciplinary lawyers who specialise in relocation services for expats. In case of any questions or need for clarifications regarding this guest post, please reach the writers directly on the following contacts:

Flavia Asiimwe, LLB (Hons) University of Kent (UK)
Tel: +256 773360315 Email: fasiimwe@origolaw.ug

Mark Kizza, CTA (ICPAU), LLB (Hons) Makerere University
Tel: +256773091830 Email: mkizza@origolaw.ug

Do you have a story you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.

The post Packing up to permanently leave Uganda? You may want to read this. appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know how much conservation, Uganda travel and digital marketing rock my boat so I was honoured when podcast host Aggie Patricia Turwomwe invited me to chat about these subjects and more. The interview gave me a chance to mention some of my favourite organisations: Conservation Through Public Health, Uganda Wildlife Authority and the brilliant free hospitality and tourism training app from the Ukarimu Academy. Oh yes, and my favourite new glitzy Kampala café, Cafesserie Arena Mall!

“Word-of-mouth has morphed into Digital Marketing” podcast interview with Charlotte Beauvoisin

ON Uganda Podcast – UG’s investment podcast – is dedicated 100% to demystify paradigms through its three segments; On Reports, On Sectors, and On Marketing with an aim to become a tool to help Ugandans achieve and thrive in a booming “MIDDLE-CLASS ECONOMY.” Listen along to understand what fuels the wheels of our economy!

Charlotte ‘Nagawa’ Beauvoisin is a writer and trainer that delivers agile and scalable experiences with digital across East Africa. Nagawa writes the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu and has contributed to the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, Lonely Planet, Fodor’s Travel, The Daily Telegraph and Horizon Guides.

In this 36 minute podcast interview, recorded in December 2021 in Kampala, Charlotte takes us through:

• The Uganda tourism landscape
• Her start in marketing
• Building capacity for Uganda Wildlife Authority game rangers
• Tourism marketing tools
• Conservation and environmental issues
• Policies that favour/ hinder the tourism sector in Uganda
• GOLD: How the tourism sector can help Uganda achieve a middle class economy.

PODCAST DISCLAIMER from ON Uganda. The views and opinions expressed in the episode are those of the guests. They do not represent or reflect the official position of the ON Uganda Podcast, so we do not take responsibility for any ideas expressed by guest during the Podcast. You are smart enough, take out what works for you.

Do you enjoy listening to podcasts?
Do you like the English accent? I’d love to know which podcasts you follow – seriously.

The post How can tourism develop Uganda? Podcast interview appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Wasn’t 2021 extraordinary? Isolation has given us all an opportunity to rethink many things – whether we wanted to or not – and I certainly ended the year in a more positive frame of mind. This would not have been possible without the support and inspiration of so many friends and colleagues. Pandemic People is dedicated to them.

The biggest shout-out goes to my family who I had not seen for nearly 3 years. When I finally made it back to the UK for my dad’s 80th birthday, I took every occasion to reconnect with family and childhood friends, reminisce, dip into the family photo archives and allow myself to be full-throttle nostalgic! Travel to Red List UK via Spain was a logistical nightmare but a useful exercise to share with would-be travellers.

I do not confine my gratitude to 2021. Many of the people I list below have been with me – virtually at least – since the start of the pandemic. I share my thanks to them individually here, in no particular order:

In 2021, Ugandan athlete Joshua Cheptegai won gold and silver medals at the Olympics in Tokyo. Ugandan social media was buzzing for days after his win and British sports commentator Rob Walker’s words went viral:

“And what unadulterated joy this win will have triggered back home in Uganda – one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries you could ever hope to visit!”

Rob Walker, sports commentator

As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, home is a wooden house at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale Forest, my green sanctuary during the pandemic. I have endless stories about my incredible life here with Julia and Dillon. Grateful everyday is dedicated to them (and the wild creatures that share my house with me!)

When Internet failed me (and my mojo was at an all-time low) aviation expert and fellow travel blogger Prof Wolfgang Thome invited me to publish a series of #LockdownDiaries for his site ATC News (ATC stands for Aviation, Travel and Conservation). Although my morning forest walks frequently felt like the 1993 film Groundhog Day, lockdown gave me the chance to connect with nature on a deeper level.

Damn has this digital nomad missed traveling! Solomon Oleny and I both write for Ng’aali, Uganda Airlines magazine.

When I want to know what’s going on in Kampala, my friend and social barometer Arthur Mwenky Katabalwa is just a tweet or phone call away! (Newspapers can only be bought in Fort Portal, an hour’s drive from home).

Bradt Guides author Philip Briggs lives in Wilderness, South Africa, where they endured some of the toughest lockdown measures. His daily run around the cabbage patch in his garden inspired me to start running again. (Ironically, he was the first person I know to have had COVID-19).

Responsible tourism colleague Daniel Quintana was the first person I spoke to when we finally got broadband Internet (several painful months into lockdown). How different our lives were during the pandemic: he isolating in modern Miami, us in the forest!

With so much on hold, I’ve missed working with my web developer Sam Risbond. I know we’ll be back on track in 2022

As the pandemic hit, Steve Dumba voiced his concern at how I would survive with tourism dead in the water. Dumba has helped me update Diary of a Muzungu and runs E-zone School of Computing in Kampala.

Another support team member I must thank is the ever-patient George Mukalazi of Laz Systems tel +256 702 926323. George is my go-to IT person

I was honoured when Miha Logar invited me to be one of the Gorilla Highlands Experts, a global team of volunteers who are passionate about developing and promoting responsible tourism in the Gorilla Highlands of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

The Gorilla Highlands Experts’ virtual picnics and group Zoom sessions reconnected me with coffee growers in Kisoro, expert chef Rama Ramadhan Sindayigaya in Rwanda, award-winning photographer Marcus Westberg in Sweden, Jon “The Voice” Lee in California and countless others all over the globe. I can’t tell you how much that connection has meant to me during lockdown. Gorilla Highlands’ latest endeavour is the SEE AFRICA BREATHE AFRICA podcast.

I was tickled pink when Andrew Roberts asked me to help with a spot of proofreading for his fantastic Uganda Safari book. Andy and I worked together at the Uganda Conservation Foundation. You may know Andy as the co-author of the Bradt Uganda guide.

I was over the moon when the journalist Susan Muumbi invited me to write an article for The East African. In 2018, we tracked Rwanda’s gorillas and attended Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony together. We swapped life stories as our safari vehicle wound its way up and down Rwanda’s thousand hills. Here’s Susan’s story about our big cat safari in Akagera National Park.

Daily connection with nature has kept me sane (well, almost!) A high point of 2021 was getting back into running. Kudos to Canada’s top fitness trainer 2020 Philip Ndugga for the virtual coaching.

What’s worse than being stuck in lockdown? Being in lockdown when you are a freelancer! Journalist friend Amy Fallon and I compared notes on our double dose of isolation. Best way for us both to get through it? Start running again!

The sea – specifically the Indian Ocean – was the number one thing I hankered after during lockdown and my first international trip was to the 5 star Mombasa Serena Resort, Kenya. The thought that I would see the ocean again made the first few months of 2021 bearable!

While tourism was closed in 2020, I watched how friends in the Kenyan coastal resort of Watamu came together to feed a community that was financially decimated by lockdown. They were some of the first people I had to see after lockdown. Kudos to Jane Spilsbury, Steve Trott, Mike Mwangombe of Watamu Marine Association, Mel and the team at Hemingways Watamu, Lynne Elson and Tushar (and many others) for keeping the community going. In December 2021, KTN News Kenya broadcast a report about the Watamu Marine Association’s work to protect the Indian Ocean’s wildlife and beaches. This circular economy project: creates jobs to collect plastic waste, upcycles old plastic to make cool products, cleans the ocean to protect wildlife and keeps beaches clean to welcome tourists!

One of the upsides of travelling on your own is having quality time to connect with new people. In Kilifi (north of Mombasa), rafiki Thomas Mbashu of Tripesa and I discussed Kilifi’s tourism attractions over fish, prawns and oysters at Nautilus Restaurant – a delectable treat after all those months in the village eating posho and beans!

A week at Distant Relatives renewed my desire to be a digital nomad… If you are looking for a cool place to hang out, party and enjoy superb live music and DJs, at extremely affordable prices, look no further than Distant Relatives Backpackers in Kilifi, midway between Mombasa and Watamu. Far more than just a backpacker hostel, DR is one of the most innovative, well-run places to stay on Kenya’s coast. Distant Relatives Backpackers Instagram page is !

While most of us tourism folk languished in the doldrums, Albert Ntambiko showed us how to turn a business around during the pandemic. What do you do if your café isn’t allowed sit-in customers? You reinvent yourself as a takeaway business! Coffee at Last is in Makindye, Kampala.

I have missed the lovely Moreen Mungu during the pandemic. Our trip with the Kasese Tourism Investment Forum was a highlight of my year. In Kasese, I was honoured to speak alongside David Gonahasa, the brains behind Tripesa and Home of the Gorillas Initiative that “seeks to increase global awareness of Mountain Gorillas by leveraging technology to generate non-trekking revenues towards gorilla conservation.”

I could listen to Ian Redmond for hours: he is a master at explaining complex ideas in non-techy language (for us non-scientists!) For example, did you know that the ‘ecosystem services’ offered by a single forest elephant are valued at 1.7 million USD? This recognises elephants’ value in carbon sequestration (preventing the release of carbon and thus reducing climate change). This staggering amount of money is in addition to elephants’ value to the tourism economy. Ian is co-founder of Rebalance Earth a social impact company that proposes using block chain technology to offset carbon emissions: win:wins for elephants, forests, local inhabitants near National Parks, the climate, EVERYONE!

In 2021, Ian was part of the team that launched Ecoflix “the first not-for-profit global streaming platform dedicated to saving animals and the planet.” Do check it out!

Every interaction with Dr Celestine Katongole is a learning experience. Celestine masterminded Uganda Tourism Board’s tourism recovery plan and the award-winning Entanda Tours (traditional hunting experience) near Mityana. His latest project is Work & Rise a company that “connects people who have jobs to those looking for the jobs.”

Sleeping in a tent up a mountain is not for the faint-hearted, especially when it’s your first time. I was intrigued to know why Jean Byamugisha CEO of the Uganda Hotel Owners Association, chose to swap her self-confessed ‘boujee’ lifestyle for walking boots and a tent. In Out of my element Jean shared her personal account of climbing Mount Elgon. I really felt her pain! (And her determination).

The CBI project to train tour operators in digital marketing involved Peter Fabricius and I writing a syllabus and developing training materials. Revisiting old content in the context of the pandemic brought some illuminating discussions and a new hybrid approach: in-person group discussions, live remote presentations from Peter’s home office in Cape Town and virtual breakout rooms on Zoom. Working with Peter is like having my own personal coach – I can’t think of a better way to get back to full-time work!

Finally – after so many years daydreaming – I made it to Karamoja, where Theo told me all about their plans for the Warrior Nomad Trail and the Tour of Karamoja Uganda’s ultimate wilderness bicycle tradition, taking place in April 2022. “Expect a physical and mental challenge, rich cultural encounters, dramatic scenery and Uganda’s finest wildlife.” The Warrior Nomad Trail takes you 6 completely unique days / 6 stages through Uganda’s final frontier on the extreme edges of the East African Rift. The final days are celebrated in the award-winning Kidepo Valley National Park.

I’ve loved being a small part of implementing the EyeOpenerWorks’ vision for tourism and hospitality. I look forward to working with Martijn, Lex, Laiqah and the team again soon.

It was a pleasure to spend two days with Sheila Kogo-Malinga at Kisubi Forest Cottages off Entebbe Road. Her company Lodge Solutions is a one-stop shop for everything you’ll need if you’re setting up a tourism business in Uganda.

In 2022 I’ll be travelling to Tanzania. Kudos to CEO Sirili Akko for the great work Tanzania Association of Tour Operators TATO are doing promoting Tanzania during the pandemic. Their approach has been radically different to Uganda’s but as long as visitors are travelling to Africa again, I’m happy!

In London, I attended World Travel Market. Africa had little representation but West Africa Tourism Association did the continent proud. Here Daniel of I Like Local introduced me to WATO’s delightful CEO Ola Wright.

Horizon Guides has grown to be a reputable travel brand. I’m thrilled that Matt Barker asked me to update the Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, a project we first worked on together in 2016.

Liz Warner is one of the UK founders of Different Kind, and former CEO of Comic Relief, a new online marketplace for “goods that do good.” I got a buzz from recommending a few ideas from Uganda and hope to recommend more as DK evolves.

In this short clip, Vanessa Nakate talks about the changing weather patterns in Uganda. “Historically Africa is responsible for just 3% of global emissions yet is suffering some of its worst impacts.”

Closer to home, I am a fan of the work of AFRIYEA and their practical clean-up Fort Portal / River Mpanga campaigns. Let’s support young environmentalists in 2022!

Trends indicate that post-pandemic, more of us will choose to travel sustainably. Silver linings! Kudos to Judy Kepher-Gona and the team at Sustainable Tourism and Travel Agenda in Kenya who are at the forefront of training young people and tourism businesses on how to operate sustainably. I hope to attend their annual summit in 2022. #STAS22

We were delighted when our former colleague Lilly Ajarova became CEO of UTB, but can you imagine being head of the Uganda Tourism Board during the pandemic? Not to be deterred, in 2020, Lilly led a team of climbers to the top of Mount Margherita, the highest point in Uganda. Where she leads, others follow. Domestic tourism has come of age during the pandemic!

“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.

VSO was a passport to an incredible life. I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”

Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine

Voluntary Service Overseas was my ticket to a new life in Uganda (and the first three years of Diary of a Muzungu recount those life-changing experiences). In 2021, I was delighted to help promote VSO’s work in an interview with Woman and Home, the U.K.’s bestselling women’s magazine.

And what does 2022 hold for Diary of a Muzungu?

I don’t know how I would have survived the last two years without everyone featured here. In small ways and big, they’ve helped and inspired me. I’m still processing so much of the last two years. I felt hopelessly lost at certain points but now I’m just letting things settle. Conservation, digital marketing training, travel travel travel and AFRICA will continue to be central to Diary of a Muzungu but quite how that all pans out, I’m still figuring out!

Mwebale nyo – thank you – to everyone who has attended my training workshops and to the tourism businesses that advertise in the Travel Directory. We look forward to brighter times

My last thank you is to everyone who reads Diary of Muzungu! Wishing us all the very best for a successful and happy new year! Keep in touch – sign up to my monthly newsletter.

The post Pandemic people – my best of 2021 appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Ugandans welcome people of all nationalities; it is an intrinsic part of their culture. The ability to speak English widely offers visitors a huge advantage but it’s the wonderful welcomes and smiles that make this place accessible. One of my first bits of advice from a fellow Brit was: “You’ll get used to Ugandans staring at you. Don’t be intimidated. Just smile and they will return the most dazzling smile.”

It’s true.

Ugandans love talking about Premier league football, politics and how much they drank the night before. Ugandans love to party. Conversely, Ugandans are also avid church (or mosque) goers and very ‘God-fearing.’

Read my most popular blog 50 reasons why I love Uganda.

Introducing Kampala, the capital of Uganda

Set on the edge of Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater lake, Kampala is named after the Impala, who were once abundant on the city’s historic Seven Hills. These days the city covers more than twenty hills and, to see an Impala, you now have to travel to Lake Mburo National Park, three hours to the west.

Kampala nightlife is legendary across the region and the city is a great place to work, network and socialise. The expat community is welcoming and diverse. There is a great range of clubs, activities and restaurants.

Kampala is a great base for weekends away on safari, white water rafting or just chilling at a lodge with a wonderful view. Heavy traffic, sometimes potholed roads and bad drivers are some of the downsides to life in Kampala. When it’s hot, tempers fray!

“Muzungu how are you?” Life as an expat in Uganda

Expats can’t escape being called “Muzungu,” meaning lost or confused (from the Swahili). Apparently this is how the first white people looked when we first arrived in East Africa. Read the full definition here What is a Muzungu?

“Bazungu” (plural) and white people generally are made to feel welcome, thanks to the good work of the European doctors, teachers and missionaries of the nineteenth century. In Uganda, knowing a white person is perceived to be a good thing, as we arrive with the possible offers of jobs, sponsorship and connections. Expats do get regular requests for work, school fees, the ubiquitous ‘sponsorship’ and occasionally cash. Ugandans are very polite so will ask nicely. It’s okay to say no.

My blog Are muzungus all rich? is one of my most popular reads.

Expat conversations often revolve around complaints about the potholed roads, the naughty traffic policemen, and being overcharged for things on the street. It’s unavoidable: as a Muzungu, you are perceived to have money, even when you feel you are penniless.

What language do you speak in Uganda?

Uganda is home to 56 ethnic groups and their languages. Luganda is the language of the Ganda people of Buganda, mostly resident in Greater Kampala. This is the language you will hear spoken most often in Kampala. The lingua franca of Uganda is English. (Phew – I’m in luck!)

More important than the language you speak is the manner in which you greet people. Greetings are hugely important in building relationships, as is the time to acknowledge people, particularly those of status. Take the time to say “How are you?” even if you are in a hurry.

It is quite common to start a meeting with a prayer (so have a couple of lines ready!) Equally, it is common for expat visitors to be asked to make an impromptu speech at a meeting. You may be invited to a number of weddings as the guest of honour!

What’s the weather like in Uganda?

Uganda’s position on the Equator means we benefit from an unbelievably beautiful climate; most days are sunny with blue skies. Even when it does rain, the sun quickly dries up the puddles.

Southern Uganda, and borders of Lake Victoria, are generally wetter, with rains generally spread throughout the year. Here most rain falls from March to June and during the shorter rainy seasons of November and December. The effects of climate change mean seasons have become blurred but you can normally look out of the window and decide whether you need to take an umbrella to work that day. Sunshine is never very far away. Think UK – but the opposite!

The country comes to a halt when it rains, and everybody hides inside. After the rain stops, expect mega-traffic jams. Kampala is a busy and often chaotic city especially if you’re rushing to a meeting and get stuck in traffic for an hour. Have a good car radio, always have airtime on your phone and have a newspaper to hand so you don’t feel you’re wasting those precious minutes. Even better, get someone else to drive or work from home. It’s a good idea to live near where you work or agree to work from home sometimes.

Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a tongue-in-cheek blog by a fellow expat.

Uber launched in Kampala to the ire of the overpriced taxi drivers and the boda boda (motorbike) drivers. I had always found “private hire” taxis in Kampala too expensive but Uber, Bolt, newcomer Lolo and SafeCar charge a third of what traditional taxi drivers charge. Uber Uganda also has bodas on their app but SafeBoda is by far the best option in 2022. Since the pandemic, many of the drivers on the ride hailing apps are overcharging. In my experience, SafeBoda is the most transparent (and cheapest) way to travel across town. However, a car ride is always going to be the safest transport option.

Read How to ride a boda boda before you jump on that motorbike!

Healthcare in Uganda. Beware the Travellers’ Health Book! Tropical disease diary

The provision of healthcare can be hit and miss. Local clinics and pharmacies can offer you the best advice on tropical medicine, but beware out of date drugs.

Regular health check-ups are advised, particularly for bilharzia (which you may catch in Lake Victoria or the River Nile). Beware of malaria (we don’t all have the same symptoms). Expats usually buy private health insurance which is not particularly expensive.

Read my Uganda travel advice I ignored including How to avoid Malaria and How to avoid Bilharzia.

What’s on in Kampala?

Kampala is developing quickly and there’s always plenty (too much!) to do. Many expats rely on word of mouth recommendations from friends and colleagues. Online information is slowly improving, particularly through Facebook and WhatsApp groups. I promote festivals and other events on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page. X (Twitter) is a good place to find out what’s on too. Follow me @CharlieBeau.

There are many ways to meet fellow expats in Kampala. You will quickly find familiar faces. Generally, expats and Ugandans mix easily, but sometimes you just need to talk someone from back home who ‘gets you’ without having to navigate the cultural differences. Kampala has the friendliness of the village, but village life can be a bit oppressive sometimes. Wherever you go, you will bump into people you know – even upcountry!

The overwhelming majority of visitors to Uganda love the place. Many of us extend our contracts; some of us decide to settle here. Mixed race relationships are common and I share some of my experiences here in How to date a Ugandan.

Enjoy the best nightlife in East Africa!

Kampala is a party city. Every bar plays loud music and it’s quite common to dance all night at your local bar. There are no particular bar opening hours; many are open all day and all night – you can always find a drink in Kampala.

Very few Ugandans smoke, and culturally, it is frowned upon. That said, few people would complain if you light up. Although it is illegal to smoke in many places, it is rarely enforced. Virtually all clubs and restaurants are outside, or at least have an outdoor section, so you can usually smoke where you like. Cigarettes are very cheap so expat smokers are very happy here!

Most people will tell you they find Kampala a safe city, however, don’t leave your phone on the table while you’re chatting in a café and be careful of your possessions when you are in busy bars (as in most cities).

Technology in Uganda. Staying in touch with the things and people you care about

Access to the Internet is improving all the time in Uganda so Skyping, WhatsApping and Zooming with friends and family back home is a doddle.

These days, your boda boda driver and your house girl have a mobile phone. They may even have a phone that looks better than yours. (Beware cheap Chinese or Indian phones in Uganda. Many are fake so do shop around carefully).

Free WiFi is common these days but you can’t beat the convenience of your own personal – and fast – connection. MiFis are small pocket-sized devices that let you connect up to ten devices simultaneously.

Not so long ago, banking and payments involved a lot of physical effort. We paid for everything with cash, waited in line at the bank to withdraw money using a chequebook and drove distances to pay bills. On my first trip to a Kampala bank, I watched a customer stuff wads of banknotes into his socks before he left the building! Now, you can pay for almost anything via your phone, by linking your online bank account to one of Uganda’s mobile money systems. It’s so easy! Although European banks have had online banking for a long time, few are linked with mobile phone technology yet. Come to East Africa to see how it works!

I use mobile money to buy internet data and pay bills. Most of us regularly send or receive cash using these systems. (In Kenya, the M-Pesa system is used in almost every shop and bar).

As for computers, Computer Facilities in Kamwokya have saved my bacon more than once! Two laptop hard drives have died on me but it’s very reassuring to know that they can (almost always) recover the data. Computer Facilities develop bespoke network infrastructure solutions for large companies. Their client list is a ‘who’s who’ of the corporate world in UG and across East Africa.

What about old-fashioned snail mail? Does Kampala have a Post Office?

International delivery companies exist but there is also a Post Office on Kampala Road. I learned that a trip to the Post Office is a good indicator of how you’re getting to grips with life in Uganda.

Back in my VSO volunteer days, I was a regular visitor to the Post Office. Read “The cheque’s in the post ….” apparently.

Last but not least, expats share their advice and experiences in Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]  

What’s your advice for living in Kampala? If you’re planning a move to Uganda, what other questions do you have?

The post Uganda for beginners – introduction for new expats [UPDATED] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Once upon a lifetime ago, I left my 9-5 job in London to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Volunteering with VSO (Voluntary Service Overseas) was the passport to an incredible life. It’s a story I’ve been blogging about ever since…

I’m thrilled that an interview about my life in Uganda featured in the UK’s woman & home magazine (October 2021) and Woman Magazine (July 2022).

“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.

In London, I had a corporate job and a long-term relationship, but the end of the relationship reignited my dream of visiting Africa.

I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”

Charlotte Beauvoisin, Woman Magazine | woman & home magazine

Read the woman & home interview with Charlotte in Uganda here.

The warmth here in Uganda – like the people – envelops you in a hug and makes you want to stay forever…

Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine, October 2021

Do you enjoy reading Interviews? Read more Interviews with Charlotte Beauvoisin here.

The post Interview with UK’s woman & home magazine appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Yesterday I went shopping on the British high street. (After my year in the forest, shouldn’t that be something to get excited about?)

The task was simple: buy some mascara.

One of the upsides of living in Uganda is there’s not a lot of choice. Yes, to me that’s an upside because the options in the UK are OVERWHELMING. You can dither endlessly. At one point I wanted to walk out of the shop empty-handed and then I reminded myself how lucky I am (I thought of a few Ugandan girlfriends who would be agog at all the products on offer!)

This photo shows one quarter of the intimidating “makeup wall.”

Do I choose between black and brown mascara?

How much should I spend?

Those are the small details.

First consider: microblade effect. natural volume. dual wand. smudge proof. curl addict. masterpiece divine lashes. waterproof. lash boost complex. lash sculpting. big drama volumising. long shot lengthening. wonder extension full stretch technology. And then there’s “false lash Bambi” – one for my Ugandan friends

Beyond the marketing vernacular, did I want to buy a vegan product? Or something made in the UK? Had the mascara been tested on animals? I could feel my head exploding. I do miss having ethical choices in my shopping decisions but they are a whole other headache too. (To be honest, I don’t want ethical options, I want ALL products to be ethical).

I love culture shock but it takes me time to adjust to the UK’s consumer culture. I don’t much like it.

(I have always had mixed feelings about the (over)abundance of options and the unrelenting pressure to spend, spend, spend).

Have you travelled from Uganda to UK or Europe? How did the shopping experience make you feel? Did you run screaming from the shop?!

The post Lash goals appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

These East African countries – and many more around the world – are currently classified as Red List meaning that if you travel directly to England from a Red List country, you will need to spend a mandatory 10 days in government quarantine. This will cost you a formidable £1,750. Few of us have that money, hence a longer route to the UK through a third country is one option. Here is my story:

Disclaimer: don’t rely on everything I write here; circumstances are constantly changing and you need to check everything. I have a British passport. If you’re a different nationality, other rules may apply! For example, “if you have been in a country or territory on the red list in the last 10 days you will only be allowed to enter the UK if you are a British or Irish National, or you have residence rights in the UK.” (Oh yes, and England has slightly different rules from Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland!) At a certain point all this research gave me quite a headache but, now that I have settled with family in the UK for a few weeks, I can tell you that the whole circuitous adventure has been worth it! If you have any questions, please Contact the Muzungu. Better still, post your comments below so fellow travellers can see my responses as well. Scroll down for links to other COVID-19-related travel stories from Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda.

What are the UK’s rules for arrivals?

Travellers are assessed based on where they have been in the 10 days before you arrive in the UK. I quickly worked out that I had to travel via a Green or Amber List country. These rules apply if you are not fully vaccinated under the UK vaccination programme.

Before travel to England from an Amber List country, you must:

• take a COVID-19 test – children aged 10 and under do not need to take this test
• book and pay for day 2 and day 8 COVID-19 tests – to be taken after arrival in England
• complete a passenger locator form

Why travel now when it’s so complicated?

My dad celebrates his 80th birthday in August. I had set my heart on being with my family come hell or high water. However, “if conditions change in a country or territory, it can be moved from the amber list to the red list.” This can happen without warning, so I kept my travel plans secret in case I got marrooned somewhere!

Where I went wrong

I had taken a gamble on travelling from Uganda to Kenya, thinking that I would spend two weeks in Amber List Uganda before travelling to the UK. I miscalculated. UK put Uganda on the Red List before I had made my UK travel plan. I wanted to cry. It’s at that point that I realised how much I needed to see my family – birthday or no birthday. I had to work out how to travel from a Red List country to England / the UK.

Still, my decade plus as a travel blogger has taught me how the story only starts to get interesting when things go wrong!

Thankfully I have time. Most of my work is remote (I have been working from home longer than anyone I know) so self-isolation is a doddle. This meant I could travel via a Green or Amber List country and kill a few days there and thus legally enter UK ten days later.

Do vaccinations make travel easier?

I was one of the first people in Uganda to have my AstraZeneca shots. I had my first on March 19th, and my second ten weeks later. I have been desperate to relaunch my digital nomad lifestyle.

However, having being ‘double vaxxed’ is just a small part of the puzzle since we now find out we don’t have the right kind of vaccinations. Even for countries who do accept Covishield (AstraZeneca manufactured in India), we may not have the right accompanying paperwork (yet) but I was not prepared to give up.

At the beginning of July, I Googled “European countries that accept Covishield” and read that the European Union does not yet recognise Covishield. However, a number of European countries have announced that they will accept people who have two Covishield vaccinations. “Some European countries to allow travellers from India inoculated with Covishield”

That said, it is not simple to find confirmation of information around accepted vaccines. It took me three days of Google research, visiting airline and government websites, expat Facebook groups and WhatsApp conversations with friends in various countries to to find information that gave me the confidence to travel.

The EU Vaccine Passport and the NHS Covid Pass (UK) are just two of the number of ways that will help vaccinated people to travel. However, as a British expat who has been vaccinated in Uganda, I can’t subscribe to either scheme. (Will I be able to in the future? Who knows…)

Why travel to Spain from Uganda?

Scroll down to read why I spent two weeks in Vilanova i la Geltru in Catalunya, Spain and why I could not enter France, Portugal or Malta.

Why you can’t travel to Malta from Uganda

Although Malta does accept Covishield vaccinations, they do not currently accept Uganda’s proof of vaccinations. I was at the point of booking a fortnight’s AirBnB in Malta when I discovered that they would not let me enter the country(!) I could not find the clarification I needed on government websites so I emailed Visit Malta directly, attaching a copy of my handwritten vaccination certificate. They emailed to confirm it was not acceptable.

Why you can’t travel to France from Uganda

France is not open to tourists. You can only visit for exceptional reasons and I could not justify a visit, even though I have family there (cousins are not counted as close relatives). Damn, I could almost smell the lavender fields!

However, there was a possibility that I could travel to Spain and cross to France by road / train. I had heard other Brits successfully doing this. The airports are checking all travellers very carefully but land borders are not monitored as closely. I wasn’t sure I wanted to take any risks however.

Another issue I had was Brexit, godammit. My cousin alerted me to the need to fill in some additional paperwork. That sent me over the edge! La belle France – you were not meant to be…

Why you can’t travel to Portugal from Uganda

Portugal was high on the list of countries I wanted to visit but expat friends who live there say that only returning residents are allowed to enter the country. This was a big disappointment since I wanted to reconnect with an old friend there.

Why you can’t travel to Belgium from Uganda

Once I decided to fly with Brussels Airlines, it occurred to me that I could simply end the first part of my journey in Belgium and spend a fortnight there. However, travel from Uganda is currently only open to Belgian or EU residents (not Brits post-Brexit); thus I did not qualify. However, I was allowed to transit (stay in Brussels Airport between flights) as Uganda was not qualified as ‘very high risk.’

Why I travelled to Spain

I had read that Spain accepts Covishield. However, concerned by Malta’s rejection, I wanted to be 100% sure that Spain would let me enter the country before I booked my flight. I emailed the Spanish government cau-sp@spth.gob.es a copy of my handwritten vaccination card and they confirmed Covishield (AZ made in India) would be acceptable. Phew!

Vilanova I la Geltrù is 50km outside Barcelona, Catalunya, Spain

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Pasifae cow sculpture. vilanova i la geltru spain

Nomada chiringuito beach bar. vilanova i la geltru spain

chiringuito beach bar. vilanova i la geltru spain (4)

Vilanova i la Geltru, Catalunya, Spain Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vilanova i la Geltru, Catalunya, Spain Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vilanova i la Geltru, Catalunya, Spain Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vilanova i la Geltru, Catalunya, Spain Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vilanova i la Geltru, Catalunya, Spain Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vilanova i la Geltru, Catalunya, Spain Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vilanova i la Geltru, Catalunya, Spain Charlotte Beauvoisin

Flight booking

Brussels Airlines emerged as the cheapest option between Entebbe to Barcelona via Brussels with a choice of flight times.

For my COVID PCR test, I used Sameday Laboratories test provider in Entebbe. They were professional and quick. Prices vary according to the turnaround times. They can come to you or you can visit their small office at Imperial Mall.

Once I had my negative PCR test certificate, I was ready to complete the Spanish Passenger Locator Form. This was easy to fill in and I received my digital confirmation within seconds. 

I had to show my negative PCR certificate at Entebbe and at Barcelona Airports. I carried my handwritten vaccination proof with me but Spanish authorities did not ask for it.

Note: you may also have to fill in the passenger locator form for any country that you transit through. Check before you fly.

What to expect when checking-in at Entebbe Airport

Overall, the check-in experience was okay. The expanded airport is certainly much nicer than it was. I have written separately about the excellent experience at Entebbe International Airport Arrivals.

I struggled to pull my heavy bag up the long slope towards check-in at Entebbe Airport. A helpful man helped me extricate the bag’s wheels from the grid. “I think you need to get a boyfriend,” he said. Rude or funny? I chose to laugh.

At the entrance to the marquee outside Departures, came a polite “Where are you flying to?” 

I stood in the first line to have my PCR certificate checked. Sadly, the Port Health employee couldn’t manage a hello; nor did she make eye contact. If you arrive at Entebbe Airport without a printed copy of your negative PCR certificate, you will have to get one printed inside the airport. On the lower ground floor, one of the mobile money vendors will charge you 5,000 shillings per black and white print. I had to do this on a previous flight (it’s a hassle as you will have to go through security with all your luggage and get into a tiny lift).

As we were funnelled into the new terminal building, I accidentally jumped the queue. (How embarrassing, I should have realised the small groups of people were social distancing!) A super friendly Ugandan man greeted us with smiles and amusing conversation as we queued to have our bags scanned.

Next stop: shrink wrapping of my huge canvas bag where they advised me to save money and put 1kg stuff into my hand luggage. A courteous young Indian man plastic wrapped my bag and then escorted me plus bag to the Brussels Airlines counter. (Perhaps I don’t need a boyfriend after all?)

Despite my best efforts to have everything in place, I still forgot to do the Passenger Locator Form for my five hours transit in Brussels. Thankfully, Brussels Airlines staff at Entebbe Airport were helpful and very patient with this stressed-out muzungu. There was no public Wi-Fi at Entebbe Airport but luckily I had some data on my phone so I could fill in the Passenger Locator Form while in the check-in queue. The confirmation with QR code came through from Belgium instantly.

At passport control, the immigration officers scowled. There were no niceties here. Security continued with yet another scanning of (hand) luggage. I had wanted to use mobile money before my flight but I could not find anywhere to do that (you need to go back down into Arrivals).

The restrictions of Uganda’s 42 day lockdown meant that I didn’t get a chance to shop for gifts. Could I try my luck at Entebbe Airport? I couldn’t bear to part with five US dollars for a tiny hand-carved gorilla (especially knowing how few shillings locals on the edge of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park will make from the sale).

My flight with Brussels Airlines

Before take-off, staff walked up and down the aisles sanitising (how effective that is, I don’t know?) The safety video was rather fun. I did giggle at the advice not to bring your own drinks on board.

Passengers were given blankets, but no pillows or eye masks. Earphones came wrapped in paper (a good environmental solution). Food and drink (just one) were served quickly and I enjoyed: surprisingly good fish, fresh bread with real butter, a tasty sweet tart and good coffee. (The breakfast was rather poor however; no fruit and just a lot of stodgy pastry and biscuits).

Thankfully there were few announcements and I should have slept through the whole Brussels Airlines flight but woke a hundred times. (For over a year, I slept in the same bed – perhaps I need time to readjust to my digital nomad lifestyle!? Light from my neighbour’s entertainment screen kept flashing at me. I resisted the urge to lie across empty seats after the cabin attendant told the passenger next to me to return to his allocated seat.

Airports - Entebbe to Brussels and Barcelona

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Sameday COVID-19 testing, Entebbe Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Entebbe COVID-19 testing, Uganda 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Entebbe Airport, Uganda 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Entebbe Airport, Uganda 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Brussels Airport, 2021. craft beers. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Brussels Airport, 2021. craft beers. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Barcelona Airport, Spain 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Barcelona Airport, Spain 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vueling airplane, Spain 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Vueling airplane only 20% occupied seats Spain 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

London Gatwick Airport, 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

London Gatwick Airport, 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Touchdown in Europe

Brussels Airport is one of Europe’s biggest hubs. The efficiency of the security scanning was like something out of a sci-fi film with vigilant staff constantly talking to passengers to make sure the whole system kept moving. It took seconds to login to the airport’s free Wi-Fi, meaning I could access my Passenger Locator Form and show it to immigration. I passed into the waiting area within a few minutes.

On my flight from Brussels to Barcelona, I was allocated a seat next to the emergency exit, a spot that is frequently given to passengers who are travelling on their own. The words “you need a boyfriend” rang in my ears! 

How travel has changed

• Research thoroughly. Double-check your travel information from every angle. Things can change daily and without warning. Don’t rely on what I have written here, please.
• Pay a little extra for your flight so you can rebook if needed (e.g. if you get a positive COVID-19 test, or the country you are passing through or visiting goes into lockdown).
• Everything takes longer than before. I recommend 3 hours at the airport, 4 if you can for: the extra document checks, social distancing and the fact it is harder to communicate with masks on.
• You need to wear your mask properly all the time. (It’s amazing how people will stick to the rules when they really want something! It’s quite eye-opening).
• You are not allowed to change seats when you are on the plane. This is for contact tracing e.g. if someone on the flight develops COVID-19, the airline may contact you.
• Airports and restaurants have plenty of hand sanitiser but I didn’t see many people using it. Remain vigilant. Remember all the negative tests you need to continue traveling
• Huge respect to the front-line staff who are having to wear their masks day in day out. I found it stressful in Spain where I was relying on lip reading and non-verbal communication to speak my schoolgirl Spanish!

What are the best tips for preparing to travel during the pandemic?

It’s important to do your paperwork in a specific order, for example:

• Flight booking. I booked my flight from Barcelona to London Gatwick with Vueling. A one-way flight cost €100, including large checked-in bag and hand luggage. I went for the ticket option that allowed one free rescheduling.
• COVID-19 test. 72 hours before leaving Spain, I had my COVID-19 test. I was charged €70. I received my test results in Spanish and English by SMS and email within 24 hours. 
• Book and pay for day 2 and day 8 COVID-19 tests. (I really hated doing this!) The UK government has a list of 300+ suppliers, but you have to decide which one is the best for you. The information is clear and has website links and phone numbers. It also gives you an outline of prices. However, you need to decide whether you want to do the test at home, go to a clinic and have someone do the test for you, for example. I paid £108 for the two home test kits. They are very easy-to-use and come with full instructions. If you want “day 5 early release” this is when you have to book it.
• Complete the UK Passenger Locator Form online. You will need to provide the reference number confirming you have purchased your COVID-19 tests.
• Check-in online. Before I was allowed to check-in, I had to upload a copy of my negative PCR certificate and my UK Passenger Locator Form to the airline website. I then had to wait two hours before getting email approval to do the actual check-in. Vueling sent me a QR code boarding pass (which I did not need to print). 
• Printing. I printed my negative PCR certificate, my passenger locator form and my boarding pass (just to cover all bases). I also had screenshots on my fully charged phone. I’m glad I did all of this because it gave me more confidence.
• Check-in at the airport. At Barcelona Airport, I waved the QR Code for my boarding pass at the staff to enter the building. I then joined a very long queue for the physical check-in. At the counter, I had to show print-outs of my negative PCR Certificate and UK Passenger Locator Form. I then proceeded straight to passport control and a final scanning of my hand luggage before the ten-minute walk to the departure gate. I didn’t have time to shop or buy a coffee; there are definitely more hoops to jump through when you fly nowadays.

When I touched down at London Gatwick, I sailed through the formalities. What a relief to be asked to remove my mask and exchange smiles with a friendly immigration officer! By the time I touched down in the UK, it was 14 days since I had left a red list country. I did everything by the book, as my passport and various certificates showed.

And finally…

I am now ‘free’ to self-isolate for 10 days. The UK’s government Contact and Trace team has called me every day, checking that I am staying at the address I wrote on my Passenger Locator Form. They also remind me of my responsibilities to test and to protect myself and others.

Is it worth travelling with all this extra hassle?

Absolutely! Travel is not only about reunions with long-lost family and friends, it’s about reconnecting with everyday life: watching families playing together on the beach, seeing teenagers kiss…

Before I sign off…

If you have any questions, you’re welcome to Contact the Muzungu. If you post your comments below, other travellers can see my responses as well.

The post How to enter Red List UK via Spain appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Uganda consistently ranks highly as a country that cares for and welcomes refugees. This is not a new phenomenon, as a story from the 1940s reveals.

Visitors to Masindi are frequently amazed to learn that the area was once home to a community of Poles who built a church that remains popular with the community to this day. 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi, adjacent to Nyabyeya Forestry College, is Uganda’s only Polish church. If this is unusual, consider also the fact that it was built by refugees, mostly women, who fled Europe during the Second World War. The Polish Church at Nyabyeya is an anomaly, both architecturally and culturally but this unusual story has many positive elements, of sanctuary and childhood rediscovered.

Read their story and scroll down to view my photos of the church as it is today.

Why did Polish refugees come to Uganda?

In the early 1940s, more than 2,000 Polish women, children and elderly men arrived in western Uganda. They were some of over 18,000 Poles in 22 settlements in British colonies across Africa.

This group of Poles had been held in Siberian prisoner of war camps until 1941 when an amnesty allowed them to be freed. Polish men of fighting age joined General Anders’ army. With war raging across Europe, those who couldn’t join the army were offered shelter in one of Britain’s overseas territories. Over 110,000 people – the army and civilians – made their way from the Steppes of Russia to Iraq, Iran, Palestine and India. The Poles destined for Uganda were carried by boat to Mombasa and by rail across Kenya. Polish refugees arrived in Namasagali Port on the River Nile and were ferried onto Lake Kyoga by East African Harbors and Railways water transport up to Masindi Port. From here they boarded vehicles to their new homes (or settlements) near Masindi.

It’s hard to imagine what trials this community went through on their months and years of travel.

The book “From the Steppes to the Savannah” by Barbara Porajska recounts the story of their journey, mostly on foot, from the Russian Steppes and across the Indian Ocean to Mombasa and on to Masindi.

Who built the Polish Church near Masindi?

The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya was built almost entirely by the women who had left their husbands and other male relatives in Europe, fighting in World War Two.

The church was built between 1943-1945, at the foot of Mount Wanda. Above the church entrance is the Polish coat of arms with the inscription Poloniae semper Fidelis. On the exterior is another inscription (in Polish, English, Latin and Kinyoro) saying: “This church is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, Queen of the Polish Crown, built by Polish exiles while wandering to the free Fatherland.” The (original) pews are hard carved, as is the towering figure of Jesus, carved from a single tree trunk. Above the altar hangs the icon of Our Lady of Częstochowa. On the church walls are the Stations of the Way of the Cross, with inscriptions in Polish. The church floor is made of hand-made hexagonal bricks. To visit the church, you will need to book in advance as the church receives few visitors and is often locked. (Scroll down for more details).

What was life like in the Polish settlements near Masindi?

“For children, Africa was a paradise” compared to the hell of Siberia from where they had come. According to the Association of Saint Michael the Archangel:

“The Poles travelled by ship from India to the port of Mombasa in Kenya. Later, they travelled inland to Lake Albert in Uganda, where “a piece of jungle was grubbed up for them, and clay houses covered with ivory grass were gradually built. The floor in the houses was made of clay, instead of windows – wooden shutters, and the light was an oil lamp. The furniture of the houses was also primitive – a bunk with a mosquito net, a table and two benches. Each house was divided into three rooms, for each family there was one room. They cooked in a wood-burning kitchen that was outside the house. There was also an ‘outhouse’ next to it.

The villages were built in the shape of a cross or in the shape of the letter H. In the middle was a well, and four sandy roads spread to the four sides of the world. There was a tap at the mouth of each one, from where people got water. They had lunch every day. Although the rations were not large, no-one was hungry. There were gardens around the houses; there was a lot of fruit around, and despite the ban, they hunted in the jungle for wild pigs from which they made sausages. Resourceful housewives supposedly even made ‘sauerkraut’ by shredding immature pineapples.” (Translation from the Polish by Google Translate).

“In Polish settlements, there were common, secondary, vocational and musical schools, and despite the problems with textbooks, some even seemed to graduate there. Because there were no teachers, the older high school graduates began to teach in public schools after completing the pedagogical course. The estate also had a hospital, two shops, a common room and a library, a bakery, a sewing room, a brickyard, a joiner’s workshop and a shoemaker. There was also a scout team, a theatre group, orchestra and choir. After suffering in Siberia, the Poles wanted the next place of exile to resemble a lost homeland. A part of the village was also an orphanage for children whose loved ones were tortured in Russia, did not manage to cope with the hardships of the road or enlisted in the army.”

Stanisław Lula, who arrived in Uganda when he was 16 years old, recalls: “Masindi estate is a large village built especially for the reception of Polish refugees … It was established in 1942 and consisted of 8 villages connected with each other. Our village was called ‘Monkey Grove’, because it bordered with bush, where there were a lot of different monkeys.”

The traditional king Omukama Sir Tito Gafabua Winyi IV of Bunyoro paid occasional visits to the camp.

The Polish Church served Poles living here until the closing of the camp in 1948. Many died of tropical diseases. Of the survivors, few made it to Poland. The Polish Church’s cemetery has 51 graves, 44 of which are Polish. An inscription – also in Polish – reads ‘Pray for the Poles who died 1939 – 1947.’

In 2010 the cemetery was renovated by students from the Pedagogical University of Kraków in Poland.

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi

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Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Church Nyabyeya Uganda. Genowefa Franczyk Matkowski

Polish Church Nyabyeya Uganda. Genowefa Franczyk Matkowski

Young Polish women living in exile in Uganda in 1940s. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Young Polish women living in exile in Uganda in 1940s. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Polish exiles at a camp in Uganda. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Polish exiles at a camp in Uganda. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Polish refugees pig farming. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Polish refugees pig farming. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Relatives of Polish exiles refresh tombstone. Polish Church. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Relatives of Polish exiles who died in Uganda refresh tombstone. PHOTO Uganda National Archives

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Diary of a Muzungu. Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi, Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi. Montage by Charlotte Beauvoisin

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Interior. Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Sallie Wareing. Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi Uganda

What happened to the Polish community in Uganda and the church after World War II?

World War II ended in 1945. In 1948, the British started to close down the camps. Of 18,000 Poles who reached East Africa from Siberia, only 3,000 returned to Poland. The others left for other countries.

The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya remains a lively church. As the Forestry College 1 km away many of the Poles’ original houses still stand. Everyone is welcome to the Sunday services.

Visitors who are interested in learning about the Polish community’s impact may enjoy hearing that tin containers in local shops were referred to as Polands. If you wanted a portion of beans from the shop, you would ask for a ‘Poland of beans’ (rather than a cup of beans). These were named after the tins that the Polish had, presumably from the days of war rationing. I was interested to learn what this Polish community had left behind in terms of influence? These were not European colonisers. (How did they get on with local people?)

There was a second Polish settlement in Uganda, at Koja in eastern Uganda. This camp was bigger but razed to the ground after the Poles left. Masindi is therefore the main base in Uganda for Poles wishing to retrace their ancestors.

Why visit the Polish Church?

• Discover WWII history and its impact on East Africa
• A destination for Poles wishing to learn about their ancestors
• An active connection with Poland
• A place to admire Polish Catholic art and iconography
• An active church

How to find Masindi’s Polish Church

The church is 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi and just five minutes from the Royal Mile, Budongo Forest. It’s not signposted and the route takes you along winding dusty tracks (but you may just find it using Google Maps). My visit was organised by Sallie and Robert from New Court View Hotel in Masindi, where I stayed for five nights. They will make sure someone is there to open the church and give you a tour.

If you visit the Polish Church, do read the visitors’ book. Many comments are from descendants of the Poles who once lived here.

Further reading

• How East Africa became home for Polish exiles
• “Africa was the closest to Poland.” The rescued exiles from Siberia were sent to the Black Continent
• Photographs courtesy of Kresy-Siberia Foundation and blog post about Polish refugees in Uganda.

Do you enjoy East African history? Then you’ll love my story about the Uganda Railway and our epic train journey between Nairobi and Mombasa on the Lunatic Express. If you enjoy architecture, read History in your hand – a guide to exploring Kampala, Jinja, Entebbe and Fort Portal using maps and a mobile app.

The post Who were the Polish women who built a church in Uganda? appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.