17 must-try experiences in Mombasa!
Aug 29, 18
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Diary of a Muzungu. cocktail. Voyager Resort Hotel, Nyali, Mombasa #JambojetHolidays

17 must-try experiences in – and on the way to – Mombasa 

Old Town Mombasa with JambojetHolidays
Mombasa – you have blown my tiny little mind!

Mombasa is closer than you think…

I recently flew to the coast – with a few hours stopover in Nairobi. Here are the muzungu’s 17 recommendations on how to fly, where to stay, what to eat, and more!

1. Fly to Mombasa via Nairobi

Our journey to the coast started with an early morning flight from Entebbe to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi.

Diary of a Muzungu flies from Entebbe to Nairobi
At the time of writing, Jambojet flew between Entebbe and Nairobi. In 2023, most people fly Uganda Airlines or Kenya Airways betweeb EBB and NBO. Jambojet offer internal (domestic) flights within Kenya
Jambojet flight Entebbe Nairobi Bloggers @MumaKeith @Oleebranch
All set for take-off! Ugandan bloggers @MumaKeith and @Oleebranch
Diary of a Muzungu. Jambojet flight cockpit Entebbe Nairobi
I’m always delighted when I learn the captain of our plane is a woman 🙂
Diary of a Muzungu. View from Jambojet flight Entebbe Nairobi
“Above the clouds, the sun is always shining” sums up my take on life
Diary of a Muzungu. Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi
THUMBS UP! At Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi, a heat sensor automatically scans all incoming passengers

We passed a day sightseeing in Nairobi, Kenya before catching the short flight to Mombasa.

2. Eat breakfast at Four Points by Sheraton, a hotel that overlooks both the JKIA runway and Nairobi National Park

Breakfast time found us on the outdoor terrace of the Marketplace restaurant of Four Points by Sheraton, a high-class hotel in a unique location.

barista Marketplace Restaurant, Four Points Nairobi
Smart, charming – and excellent coffee. Meet the barista at the Marketplace Restaurant at Four Points JKIA, Nairobi
Marketplace Restaurant, Four Points Hotel JKIA Nairobi
Very snazzy interiors! The Marketplace Restaurant, Four Points Nairobi
Reception, Four Points JKIA by Sheraton
Reception, Four Points JKIA by Sheraton
bedroom Four Points JKIA by Sheraton, Nairobi
See the runway from your room!
Tazama Rooftop Restaurant, Four Points JKIA Nairobi
The Tazama Rooftop Restaurant at Four Points JKIA is a funky urban space / beach bar by an open-air swimming pool
swimming pool Four Points JKIA by Sheraton
The open-air swimming pool looks into the park. (Didn’t I tell you it was unique?)

Whether you are a safari goer or a plane spotter, you’ll love staying at Four Points JKIA. (Rooms are soundproofed so you aren’t disturbed by the planes). I could imagine staying here for business meetings between flights. The hotel caters for tourists, walk-in guests and corporates.

3. Take a safari game drive in Nairobi National Park!

It was fun to fit in a game drive before our early evening flight to Mombasa. Nairobi is the only East African city where you can go on a game drive. Here’s my story about my first safari in Nairobi National Park.

pair of Little Beeeaters, Nairobi National Park
All the colours of the rainbow – a pair of Little Beeeaters, Nairobi National Park

4. Eat lunch at ROAST by Carnivore in Karen

Lunch ROAST by Carnivore, Karen, Nairobi
Hard to believe I was a vegetarian for so many years! Lunch was a big meaty feast at ROAST by Carnivore, at The Hub Mall in Karen. ROAST is little sister to Nairobi’s famous Carnivore ‘game meat’ restaurant.

5. Hop on the flight to Mombasa

Woo hoo! THE COAST is calling me! We took the evening flight from JKIA to Mombasa’s Moi International Airport.

Tuk tuks driving near Haile Selassie Avenue, Mombasa
Small, but noisy! Tuk tuks driving on a street off Haile Selassie Avenue, Mombasa

6. Soak up the nautical theme at Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali, north coast Mombasa

Morning sun. Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali, Mombasa North Coast
Morning sun shines through the palm trees at Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali, Mombasa North Coast

As we entered the gates of Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, north coast Mombasa, the ascari raised his trumpet to sound a fanfare to welcome us on board. The resort’s fun nautical style is apparent throughout: rooms are known as cabins, floors are decks and the staff dress in naval uniforms. The theme continues as the Voyager ‘docks in a new port’ every day, meaning the resort takes on the menus – and more – of the new destination. One day the Voyager docked in Mexico; another day we docked in Mombasa for Swahili breakfast and dinner. Local fabrics adorn the dining room to complete the look.

Morning sun. Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali, Mombasa North Coast
Cheers from Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, Mombasa​ where the barman made me a cocktail to match the colours of my dress! How’s that for cute?

Voyager Beach Resort is the ideal location for all-inclusive family holidays on the coast. (It’s the kind of place I LOVED as a kid!) Think kids’ activities, yoga classes, live music, theme nights, family shows, activities for teenagers, watersports centre, gym, three swimming pools, tennis courts and four bars. One night we watched the brilliant Mombasa Roots play live as the ‘Animation Team’ (resort staff dressed in yellow T-shirts with a big letter A on them) got guests moving and a grooving on the dancefloor – (there was some classic Dad Dancing on display too!) Voyager is a mixed crowd of Kenyans and other Africans, Europeans and a few Americans. There’s a super relaxed vibe.

7. Contemplate the colours (and your morals) at the Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple

A technicolor start to our morning. Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple, Haile Selassie Avenue, Mombasa Island
A technicolor start to our morning. Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple, Haile Selassie Avenue, Mombasa Island

What a way to start our day… gazing at the gorgeous colours of the temple’s painted walls and doors put me in a fantastic mood. Take a closer look and many of the images are rather scary: dire predictions about how thieves, drinkers and meat eaters will be ravaged in hell. (These graphic warnings did not put us off enjoying everything that Mombasa had to offer us however!)

This temple is a cracker. There’s no charge to enter (and if you arrive before 10.30 am they will open the inner sanctum for you). If you admire temples, there is another one further along Haile Selassie Avenue.

8. Stop for a selfie with ‘Pembe za ndovu’ Mombasa’s giant elephant tusks

Diary of a Muzungu. Pembe za ndovu. Mombasa elephant tusks
“Are those tusks from a real elephant?” Asked my 8-year-old nephew. Diary of a Muzungu at ‘Pembe za ndovu’ Mombasa’s giant elephant tusks

Pembe za ndovu is the Swahili name for Mombasa’s famous elephant tusks that form a M shape across Moi Avenue. Selfies here are the classic “look at me, I’m in Mombasa” shot.

According to my driver, Mombasa’s tusks (thin sheets of metal) were erected in 1956 by a European. He got the date right. The European was Princess Margaret of Great Britain who visited that year. Does the M stand for Margaret or for Mombasa?

Be mindful of the traffic while posing for your selfie – Moi Avenue is a busy road.

9. Taste local snacks on Mama Ngina Drive

madafu (coconut) stand. Mama Ngina Drive Mombasa with MumaKeith
At the madafu (coconut water) stand on Mama Ngina Drive with @MumaKeith. Trying local foods is one of my favourite parts of traveling

Mama Ngina Drive is famous for the freshly fried kachri ya muhogo cassava crisps and chilli washed down by madafu coconut water – the perfect combo!

cassava crisps. Mama Ngina Drive Mombasa. Diary of a Muzungu
Watching the cassava crisps being freshly fried on Mama Ngina Drive. We visited mid-week. It’s very busy here at weekends
madafu coconuts. Mama Ngina Drive Mombasa. Diary of a Muzungu
Fresh coconut features prominently in Swahili cuisine

You can pick up tourist souvenirs and trinkets on Mama Ngina Drive. (I doubt you should buy the seashells and many countries won’t allow you to take them through customs). This makes thought-provoking reading: You might want to think twice before buying a seashell souvenir.

I’d avoid the rather dilapidated toilets in the Mama Ngina heritage building if you can. (The blue and white building looks like a lighthouse). The place is clean enough for the cheap entry price but toilet doors don’t seem to lock.

From Mama Ngina Drive, you can watch the non-stop flow of human traffic embarking and disembarking the Likoni Ferry that connects north and south coast Mombasa. As we watched the tens of thousands of people pass by, you might imagine they are running to catch an Underground train in London or the Metro in Paris.

10. Pretend to be a commuter: take the Likoni Ferry

Panoramic view of Likoni Ferry, Mombasa, with @oleebranch
Panoramic view on board Likoni Ferry, Mombasa, with @oleebranch

The July weather had us running down the slope in the rain to catch the ferry from Mama Ngina Drive across to Likoni. Pedestrians travel for free; cars, tuk tuks, and heavy lorries pay a small fee. Men on bicycles ship jerry cans; women carry bundles of produce for the market; small trucks are loaded with goats.

Diary of a Muzungu aboard Likoni Ferry, Mombasa
“Beware pickpockets” reads the sign!

As soon as the Likoni Ferry fills up, it sets off for the other side of the creek. The journey lasts just a few minutes but gave us a chance to look upstream to the Port of Mombasa and downstream to the Indian Ocean. The Likoni Ferry may not be on every tourist’s itinerary but it does give you an insight into the everyday lives of the people of Mombasa.

11. Step into 500 years of history with a guided tour of Fort Jesus

Despite numerous trips to – or should I say through – Mombasa, this was my first time to visit Fort Jesus. Entry fees to Fort Jesus are 400 KES (local price) or 1200 KES (muzungu price!) plus guide fee, which is negotiable.

Fort Jesus schoolchildren Mombasa
Schoolkids running past the cannons at the entry to Fort Jesus
East African blogger meet-up, Fort Jesus Mombasa
At Fort Jesus we met up with Jamila Hassan El-Jabry of the award-winning Life in Mombasa blog. With us are Ugandan bloggers @MumaKeith and @Oleebranch. PHOTO @NdeithiHeritage

Our guide Dunga recounted the history of Fort Jesus. In 1498, Vasco de Gama – with a Christian cross emblazoned on his sail – first passed the Kenyan coast en route to India. In 1593, the Portuguese invaded and built Fort Jesus as a military garrison.

Fort Jesus cannons
Click on this photo to read more about Fort Jesus on the National Museums of Kenya web site
Fort Jesus photographer
Keith looks across to English Point, the promontary of land on the edge of Mombasa Harbour

Beyond the heavy cannons, the Fort Jesus’ small museum records the history of conquests and sieges by the Portuguese, Arabs, Omanis and British. On display are pottery, old stamp collections and beautiful artefacts from Persia, Oman and China. The Omani Museum showcases modern displays in an ancient building. I wish I’d paid more attention. (Next time I’ll leave my camera behind and just take my notebook…)

Jamila. Life in Mombasa blogger, Fort Jesus
Life in Mombasa blogger Jamila has written extensively about Fort Jesus

The areas open to the public are small enough to make Fort Jesus an easy trip of half a day or less. Visit early morning when it is not too hot. Afterwards, drink some fresh tamarind juice under one of the ancient trees on the main road.

Mombasa is a melting pot of African, Arab and European influences. Nowhere is this more evident than in Fort Jesus.

12. Explore the Old Town of Mombasa on foot

The Old Town of Mombasa is an interesting mix of narrow streets and Swahili architecture. Hire a local guide to scratch below the surface of this UNESCO-listed city. I adored the antiques and knick-knacks in the Gallery Shop, one of many curio shops. I could have spent all afternoon browsing!

Old Town Mombasa gallery shop
More a gallery than a shop, I adored everything I saw there! AJ Gallery is a few metres from Forodhani Restaurant

13. Enjoy the ocean breeze at Forodhani Restaurant

Forodhani’s quiet location is five minutes’ walk from Fort Jesus, next to the Old Port, with a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and English Point, a small promontory of land on the north coast opposite Fort Jesus.

mutton biryani, Forodhani Restaurant, Old Town Mombasa
Mutton biryani, tamarind juice and the almost obligatory kachumbari (chopped tomato and onion salad). Forodhani Restaurant, Old Town Mombasa

Beyond its setting, the restaurant is nothing special to look at, some plastic tables and chairs, no table decoration. Since I was in a Muslim city, I decided to try a mutton biryani; it came in a spicy tomato sauce with plenty of meat. I also ate a delicious lamb kofta sausage. According to my Kenyan travel companions, the standards were not as good as before. Service was average and staff attention was minimal but lunch was pretty affordable (and the restaurant worth visiting simply for the view and the cool breeze!)

Across the water is English Point Marina, a state of the art luxury development that looks across to Fort Jesus.

14. Chill on a sunset dhow cruise and dine at La Marina Restaurant, Mtwapa

dhow dinner La Marina Mtwapa Mombasa
A dhow before dinner…

Our sunset cruise along the inland waterways of Mtwapa Creek left from the jetty at La Marina, where our enthusiastic hostess Alice took our dinner orders and organised my preferred tipple of Kenya Cane rum for our cruise boat’s bar. The leisurely cruise was a calming tonic after our day exploring the city of Mombasa. Our small group had the whole creek to ourselves that night. Oh the starlit sky!

dhow dinner La Marina Mtwapa Mombasa
Pretty by day, romantic by night…

The candlelit, open air palm tree terrace at La Marina Restaurant is a romantic setting on the edge of the creek. (I feel relaxed just remembering that night). Dinner was exquisite: calamari in a creamy sauce for me, followed by grilled suli suli  Kingfish. Other seafood options were octopus, sushi, baked oysters, king prawns and grilled lobster. I’ve always loved seafood (even more now that I live in land-locked Uganda and visits to the coast are such a treat!)

La Marina Restaurant is a short drive north from Nyali. Call +254 (0)723 223737 for bookings. For the full romance, watch the sun going down aboard a traditional Arab dhow.

15. Feed the giraffes and crocodiles and meet a 200 year old tortoise at Haller Park

During Mombasa’s hot months, there’s no place I’d rather be than here underneath the trees. What a gift Haller Park is!

Haller Park deserves several entries in this list of things to do in Mombasa as there are so many activities you can take part in, from physical exercise to animal feeding to educational tours.

Be there at 11 o’clock or 3 o’clock to take part in the giraffe feeding. Crocodiles also get a little snack every day at 4.40 pm. (They have their main feed of 10 kg of meat just once a month).

giraffe feeding time Haller Park Mombasa
Watching the kids at giraffe feeding time was even funnier than watching the giraffes!
giraffe feeding time Haller Park Mombasa
Opportunistic monkeys sit beneath the giraffes waiting to catch discarded pellets

There were shrieks from our group as we passed through the reptile enclosure. Many of the snakes had been rescued from local homes. I don’t mind snakes but felt rather nervous when the Puff Adder eyeballed me. That snake has a mean reputation!

Diary of a Muzungu. Giant tortoise, Haller Park Mombasa
You realise you are in a rather unusual place as soon as you see the giant tortoises extend their heavy necks for a scratch. It’s tempting to want to ride one, but isn’t that heavy shell enough of a burden? Haller Park’s tortoises are believed to be between 150 and 200 years old
millipede Haller Park Mombasa
The tiny legs of the giant millipede are very ticklish!

During the 1950s, the Haller Park site was a Bamburi Cement quarry. Thanks to the vision of a certain Dr Haller, the barren quarry site was reclaimed for the environment: it is now a popular location for biking and running the nature trails, and school trips, thanks to Lafarge Eco Systems (a subsidiary of Bamburi Cement).

Halima, Lafarge Ecosystems, Haller Park tour Mombasa
Halima from Lafarge Eco Systems took us on a super tour of Haller Park

Haller Park opened to the public in 1984. The transformation from barren site to lush woodland is phenomenal and gives me hope for the future.

Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to meet Owen the hippo and Mzee, his giant tortoise buddy!  When Owen was stranded after a tsunami, he was rescued by Kenyan villagers. To everyone’s amazement, the orphan hippo and Mzee, a 130-yr-old tortoise, became inseparable. Photos of their friendship made them worldwide celebrities. Their friendship has even spawned a Broadway musical!

16. Admire the multi-coloured starfish on a glass-bottomed boat ride and snorkelling adventure

I never knew starfish came in so many colours! Orange, red, blue, brown and grey were clearly visible as our boat motored along the coast. But note: don’t pick up the starfish. Pulling them out of the water can kill them, even if they are put back! And boat operators turn a blind eye to this…

Glass-bottomed boats Nyali Beach Voyager Resort
Glass-bottomed boats depart from Nyali Beach below Voyager Resort
Low tide reef Nyali Beach Mombasa
Low tide on the reef at Nyali Beach
Nyali beach reef low tide Voyager Resort
A big ASANTE to Cynthia and Ndeithi for organising our amazing trip

The highlight of our afternoon was anchoring in shallow water and walking to an exposed sandy ledge of the reef to explore the crevices of the rock pools for sea urchins, starfish and shellfish.

Kenya Wildlife Service manages the country’s protected areas. In addition to the cost of the boat ride, you’ll need to pay the Mombasa Marine National Park entry fee if you want to snorkel.

Snorkeling, scuba-diving lessons, big-game fishing, windsurfing and canoeing and dhow safaris can all be arranged from Voyager Resort.

17. Taste Nyali nightlife!

Margarita cocktail. Voyager Resort Beach Hotel, Nyali, Mombasa
First stop: a cocktail at one of Voyager Resort’s four bars. Make mine a Margarita please!

Next stop Tapas Cielo lounge bar for a Johnnie Walker /DJ night. Eddy Kenzo and Sauti Sol videos made a perfect night of it at Anuba Lounge.

Anuba Lounge, Nyali, Mombasa, JambojetHolidays
Cocktails at Anuba Lounge, Nyali, Mombasa

I wish I’d stayed longer in Nyali. I get the feeling that Mombasans are very like Ugandans – they’re easy going and love to party!

More about Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, Mombasa

We were so caught up in sightseeing in Mombasa, I’m not sure I did the Voyager’s facilities justice. It’s the perfect base for family holidays, with an extensive programme of activities, sports, entertainment, shows and tours for all ages. However, research for this blog forced me to sample the bars – at least!

Lookout Bar, above Nyali Beach, Voyager Resort
The Lookout Bar, above Nyali Beach, Voyager Resort

My favourite was the Lookout Bar (above the beach) and the small Harbour Bar near the restaurant. Go find Raymond – he’s an award-winning cocktail maker!

Voyager caters to many tastes: European, Indian, African and more. While most meals are served buffet-style in the main restaurant, Voyager’s Minestrone Restaurant has an Italian à la carte menu (included in the all-inclusive price).

The Smugglers’ Cove restaurant is hidden in a coral cave! The food was superb (discounted for Voyager residents).

grilled lobster. Voyager Resort, Smugglers’ Cove restaurant, Nyali Mombasa
Whole grilled lobster. Our seafood experience at the high-end Smugglers’ Cove restaurant was exceptional
dessert. Voyager Resort, Smugglers’ Cove restaurant
Welcome Voyager Charlotte 🙂
One of Voyager's three swimming pools
One of Voyager’s three swimming pools

The balcony of my deluxe room looked onto gardens of palm trees, just 50 metres from the beach. It was perfect. The room had aircon, TV (did I even switch it on?), fridge, a good size safe, a powerful shower and plenty of complimentary toiletries. Voyager has 234 cabins, of various styles, each with its own balcony.

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7 thoughts on “17 must-try experiences in Mombasa!”

  1. Lizziema. says:

    Your photos alone tell a great story! Somehow you just have the knack of choosing to photograph interesting things be it food or an animal. And love your green skirt.

  2. Nice post. I have experienced almost each place you have mentioned in this post while I was in Mombasa last year. Tried crisp cassava as well as fried whole cassava with chilies and lemons, went to fort Jesus, Nyali beach resort was a fine experience did had a virgin drink there which was exceptionally good and the tasty seafood, although it starved to death preparing the meals and after eating my meal I was famished, I have never tried seafood which was this good. People in Mombasa are more friendly and hospitable as compare to Nairobi by the way. Thank you for sharing this post again reminded me of some memorable time I have spent there…
    Best Regards
    Happy Journey exploring Africa 🙂

    1. the muzungu says:

      Cassava with chilli and lemon sounds amazing! I must try that on my next visit 🙂

  3. stella says:

    I love this.

  4. the muzungu says:

    This trip was sponsored by Jambojet and a number of the featured hotels. Sadly, Jambojet no longer fly between Uganda and Kenya and are a domestic (internal) flight operator in Kenya. I still recommend them.

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