“Welcome to your home for the next few days” said Eunice, as we sat down for afternoon tea and gorilla trekking travel advice at the outdoor reception of Le Bambou Gorilla Resort, Kinigi in Rwanda.

After 12 hours on the bus, 10 hours from Kampala to Kigali and another 2 hours onto Kinigi, we were delighted to be able to stretch our legs. (I think next time I’ll fly!)

A troupe of dancers from the local village welcomed us with singing and dancing and we watched as passers-by gathered in a neighbouring field to enjoy the singing. What a beautiful way to start our stay. The music stayed with me as we were shown to our private cabin, set among pretty flower gardens. Made of solid volcanic rock, the cabins give you a feeling of total seclusion from the outside world. It felt like home right away, even more so when at dusk a man appeared at our door, his arms laden with firewood, to light a fire for us. It was cold up in the mountains. (Staying on the edge of Volcanoes National Park should have been a clue to the weather, I guess!)

What’s on the breakfast menu?

We ate well at Le Bambou Gorilla! Breakfast comprised freshly fried samosas, delicious omelettes and the tastiest yellow yolked eggs, the best passionfruit juice we’d ever tasted, local honey (crystallised in the cool mountain air), tea or coffee (Rwandese of course!) and more fabulous fresh fruit. There was, of course, the ubiquitous Blueband margarine! – the favourite spread on many an East African breakfast table.

How much is gorilla trekking in Rwanda?

Many people only know Kinigi or Musanze for gorilla trekking, but there’s a variety of ways to spend your time. Enjoying the peace and the wonderful views should not be underestimated!

Here are the current prices to track gorillas in Rwanda. We didn’t trek the gorillas that week-end – although I have since. Trekking the gorillas in Rwanda is quite a different experience to Diary of a Muzungu’s gorilla trekking in Uganda – but both were superb!

If you need advice on buying Rwanda gorilla permits, please contact the Muzungu.

What tourist activities are there in Kinigi area of Rwanda?

The local area, formerly known as Ruhengeri, is best known for being the Rwandan access point to see the Mountain Gorillas and so, on our first morning, we hitched a lift down to the entrance to Volcanoes National Park, just for a nose. Here you can visit the site of Kwita Izina the annual Gorilla Naming Ceremony, see beautiful bamboo huts, read more about the life of the Mountain Gorilla and visit a good quality craft shop, whose profits all benefit the local community. I came back to Kampala laden with baskets and woven pots!

• To really get a feel for a place, a visit to the local market is an absolute must. As our hosts toured Musanze market doing their weekly shop, we caused quite a stir by trying the Yellow Passionfruit and the Tree Tomatoes (a cross between Passion fruit and Pomegranate) and sharing our fresh popcorn with the local kids.
• Cultural village and village walk.
• Musanze Caves, on the outskirts of Musanze town (not far from Kinigi) are a relatively new attraction, now open to tourists. Guided tours are available.

Any Rwanda travel tips to share?

• The Rwandese speak Kinyarwanda, a Bantu language similar to those of Western Uganda and Burundi. Although English is now the official ‘lingua franca’ language, many people still only speak French – or speak neither English nor French! Travel with a phrase book or a local guide if you can.
• Beware the Akabanga chilli oil! The small plastic bottle – on every dining table – of what looks like eyedrops is in fact a noxious equivalent of West Indian scotch bonnet sauce. Seek directions before use!
• Tourist visas: British passport holders (like me) have to purchase an entry visa. Boo. Luckily, Rwandese entry visas can be purchased on arrival. You can also buy them online before traveling.

Travel tips: how do you travel from Uganda to Kinigi, Rwanda?

• Public transport is available virtually all the way to the lodge. (We traveled from Kampala, through Kigali). It’s easy, safe and cheap.
• Although many people would prefer to drive or fly, if you’re on a budget – or simply want to have a more African experience – a selection of bus services run several times a day between Kampala to Kigali. Smaller buses then go north to Musanze, from where you can take a car or ‘moto’ motorbike taxi onto Le Bambou.
• We chose to travel from Kampala with Jaguar Executive Coaches, recommended to us by Ugandans who have made the trip many times. The buses were clean, on time, comfortable (enough) and we and our luggage all arrived intact, both legs of the trip.

Le Bambou Gorilla Village, Kinigi, Rwanda is a small independent lodge owned by Jacky Gatera and Emmanuel Mujawayzu.

DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. I was lucky enough to be given a free night’s stay in return for this blog post. For more information, read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions. This is an edited version of a lodge review I wrote for The Eye Magazine Rwanda.

Have you been gorilla trekking in Rwanda? What are your Rwanda travel tips?

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